I am confused and spent to much for the same issue....HELP!!

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
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Paralyzer
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I am confused and spent to much for the same issue....HELP!!

Post by Paralyzer » Tue Nov 23, 2010 1:36 pm

I have used the search on the forums before anyone says anything.

I when I drive, I have the following symtoms:

Bouncy front end on bumps and straight aways
popping when turning left and right
clicking noise when accelerating, and coming to a stop
Vibration when driving 60+ mph (didn't do it today though)
The vibrations are so bad, that when you let go of the steering wheel, you can see it wobble

I have done the following:

Replaced struts
Prothane LCA bushings
New Top hats
gone through 3 balls joints on each side
new tie rod ends
balance and rotate wheels and tires
alignment


What else can it be? Possibly the axles(CV joints)? that is the only thing I can think of and of course I was dropped 4 inches for 2 1/2 years and the car now how 130,000 miles on it. I need some other help. The dealer told me each of the other things above so I did the repairs my self and only paid them the diagnostics cause I couldn't afford them to do diags and repairs, plus part cost. This is very aggrivating.

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zhneon
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Post by zhneon » Tue Nov 23, 2010 3:29 pm

I had a really bad steering wheel wobble as well, where if i was going over about 45 and let go it would go back and forth a lot, but the car would drive straight. I solved it by changing the tires in the front completely, because I had them balanced, got an alignment, etc. but it didn't work. Idk if your tires are the problem, but checking out their physical integrity might help.
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Paralyzer
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Post by Paralyzer » Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:01 pm

I forgot to add to the list this was happening before my new wheels and tires. Been going on about a year now but worse now.

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Post by esteinmaier » Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:25 pm

Wheel bearings
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Post by wheels04sxt » Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:15 pm

^x2
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:36 pm

It's going to be bearings, or CV joints. or a combination of both. (about all that's left) You could get some reman axle shafts, and swap them in while the knuckles are out to have the bearings pressed in. More $ yes, but you are saving half the labor. :lol:
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Post by Paralyzer » Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:50 pm

And with these two items left, that will help take care of the "floating" bounce effect I get while driving?

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Post by occasional demons » Tue Nov 23, 2010 10:33 pm

Those two items won't, only the clicking/popping/possible vibrations.

The floating/bouncing is the struts. New or not, it is what controls the suspension movement. How old/miles are on the springs? If they are worn out, then the new struts will not last. Just because they aren't sagging doesn't mean they won't compress easier, and work the struts to death.

Just like tired valve springs in an engine, they do need replaced. They may be at spec at installed height, but once they begin to compress, the load force drops off for the compressed height.

We ran into this on my mom's '88 LeBaron. It had 125,000ish miles. We replaced the struts, and two months later they were shot. I replaced the springs, and another set of struts, and they lasted until the car finally rotted out.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

Paralyzer
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Post by Paralyzer » Wed Nov 24, 2010 6:10 pm

If I have to do strut and springs again, I will just do coilovers. The struts might have 10k on them. seems like everything is going bad at once. I love my neon, but if this keeps going, it will have to go.....

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Post by OB » Wed Nov 24, 2010 9:05 pm

Sounds like probably a few different problems.

Wheel bearing is def possible. I'd say balance on the last one, but if that's good then the vibes are more than likely caused by one of the other problems (bearing/axle). Also, wheels and tires aren't the only things spinning down there; check your brakes as well. A badly warped or out of round rotor is just as likely to cause an imbalance as a tire. Also extremely possible that whoever balanced your tires did a poor job and A. did it wrong or B. didn't secure the weight properly and it fell off. Happens all the time.

As far as the bounciness goes, are you comparing it to a previously unbouncy ride? When did it change? What struts do you have now and what did you have before? How long have you had the drop springs on altogether?
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Paralyzer
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Post by Paralyzer » Fri Nov 26, 2010 12:59 am

I remember how it was stock it was not bouncy. I am on stock springs, and 1 year old KYB GR struts. I used to have Eibach Sportlines on stock struts till they blew and I went back to stock spring with the KYBs. I have check the rotors, pads, and had a balance and rotate done a week ago without a change. I have noticed one thing though, that if my car gets put on a rack, and then back on the ground, the car rides good for a couple of days except it still has a bounce, but the popping isn't there, but after driving for a bit, it comes back. It only does it when I first start to turn the wheels and when it hit the stop points it pops.

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Post by SYRYS04 » Fri Nov 26, 2010 8:41 pm

if you have vibrtation when u first start to turn the wheels, check the cv boot. last thing u want is that thing to snap...its a vibration/popping noise when u turn the wheel right? might wanna get that looked at.
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Paralyzer
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Post by Paralyzer » Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:46 am

yes when you start to turn the wheel, you hear a popping and grinding noise. more when you turn to the left, but you hear it when you turn both ways....

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