I am confused and spent to much for the same issue....HELP!!
I am confused and spent to much for the same issue....HELP!!
I have used the search on the forums before anyone says anything.
I when I drive, I have the following symtoms:
Bouncy front end on bumps and straight aways
popping when turning left and right
clicking noise when accelerating, and coming to a stop
Vibration when driving 60+ mph (didn't do it today though)
The vibrations are so bad, that when you let go of the steering wheel, you can see it wobble
I have done the following:
Replaced struts
Prothane LCA bushings
New Top hats
gone through 3 balls joints on each side
new tie rod ends
balance and rotate wheels and tires
alignment
What else can it be? Possibly the axles(CV joints)? that is the only thing I can think of and of course I was dropped 4 inches for 2 1/2 years and the car now how 130,000 miles on it. I need some other help. The dealer told me each of the other things above so I did the repairs my self and only paid them the diagnostics cause I couldn't afford them to do diags and repairs, plus part cost. This is very aggrivating.
I when I drive, I have the following symtoms:
Bouncy front end on bumps and straight aways
popping when turning left and right
clicking noise when accelerating, and coming to a stop
Vibration when driving 60+ mph (didn't do it today though)
The vibrations are so bad, that when you let go of the steering wheel, you can see it wobble
I have done the following:
Replaced struts
Prothane LCA bushings
New Top hats
gone through 3 balls joints on each side
new tie rod ends
balance and rotate wheels and tires
alignment
What else can it be? Possibly the axles(CV joints)? that is the only thing I can think of and of course I was dropped 4 inches for 2 1/2 years and the car now how 130,000 miles on it. I need some other help. The dealer told me each of the other things above so I did the repairs my self and only paid them the diagnostics cause I couldn't afford them to do diags and repairs, plus part cost. This is very aggrivating.
I had a really bad steering wheel wobble as well, where if i was going over about 45 and let go it would go back and forth a lot, but the car would drive straight. I solved it by changing the tires in the front completely, because I had them balanced, got an alignment, etc. but it didn't work. Idk if your tires are the problem, but checking out their physical integrity might help.
-Zack
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #101
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It's going to be bearings, or CV joints. or a combination of both. (about all that's left) You could get some reman axle shafts, and swap them in while the knuckles are out to have the bearings pressed in. More $ yes, but you are saving half the labor.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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Those two items won't, only the clicking/popping/possible vibrations.
The floating/bouncing is the struts. New or not, it is what controls the suspension movement. How old/miles are on the springs? If they are worn out, then the new struts will not last. Just because they aren't sagging doesn't mean they won't compress easier, and work the struts to death.
Just like tired valve springs in an engine, they do need replaced. They may be at spec at installed height, but once they begin to compress, the load force drops off for the compressed height.
We ran into this on my mom's '88 LeBaron. It had 125,000ish miles. We replaced the struts, and two months later they were shot. I replaced the springs, and another set of struts, and they lasted until the car finally rotted out.
The floating/bouncing is the struts. New or not, it is what controls the suspension movement. How old/miles are on the springs? If they are worn out, then the new struts will not last. Just because they aren't sagging doesn't mean they won't compress easier, and work the struts to death.
Just like tired valve springs in an engine, they do need replaced. They may be at spec at installed height, but once they begin to compress, the load force drops off for the compressed height.
We ran into this on my mom's '88 LeBaron. It had 125,000ish miles. We replaced the struts, and two months later they were shot. I replaced the springs, and another set of struts, and they lasted until the car finally rotted out.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
Sounds like probably a few different problems.
Wheel bearing is def possible. I'd say balance on the last one, but if that's good then the vibes are more than likely caused by one of the other problems (bearing/axle). Also, wheels and tires aren't the only things spinning down there; check your brakes as well. A badly warped or out of round rotor is just as likely to cause an imbalance as a tire. Also extremely possible that whoever balanced your tires did a poor job and A. did it wrong or B. didn't secure the weight properly and it fell off. Happens all the time.
As far as the bounciness goes, are you comparing it to a previously unbouncy ride? When did it change? What struts do you have now and what did you have before? How long have you had the drop springs on altogether?
Wheel bearing is def possible. I'd say balance on the last one, but if that's good then the vibes are more than likely caused by one of the other problems (bearing/axle). Also, wheels and tires aren't the only things spinning down there; check your brakes as well. A badly warped or out of round rotor is just as likely to cause an imbalance as a tire. Also extremely possible that whoever balanced your tires did a poor job and A. did it wrong or B. didn't secure the weight properly and it fell off. Happens all the time.
As far as the bounciness goes, are you comparing it to a previously unbouncy ride? When did it change? What struts do you have now and what did you have before? How long have you had the drop springs on altogether?
-Derek
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I remember how it was stock it was not bouncy. I am on stock springs, and 1 year old KYB GR struts. I used to have Eibach Sportlines on stock struts till they blew and I went back to stock spring with the KYBs. I have check the rotors, pads, and had a balance and rotate done a week ago without a change. I have noticed one thing though, that if my car gets put on a rack, and then back on the ground, the car rides good for a couple of days except it still has a bounce, but the popping isn't there, but after driving for a bit, it comes back. It only does it when I first start to turn the wheels and when it hit the stop points it pops.
if you have vibrtation when u first start to turn the wheels, check the cv boot. last thing u want is that thing to snap...its a vibration/popping noise when u turn the wheel right? might wanna get that looked at.
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