Tie-rod/toe angle question.

Icon_xof · Post by **Icon_xof** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 12:26 am

I replaced my front struts and have since been unable to afford a proper 4-wheel alignment. So I figure until I do, I can at least get the front toe angle right via the tie-rods. I know it's off pretty bad because as I'm driving straight, my steering wheel is tilted clockwise a few degrees. I've found several write-ups and how-tos on the subject. My question is, are 2nd gen neons supposed to be 0°(parallel) toe or +1° toe in? I was going to just set them as straight as I could, but then I came across this tidbit:

Josh warned us: When doing this, you must know beforehand whether your vehicle can handle a zero toe-in. My first generation Neon ACR had no problem with zero toe-in, but when I hit a major bump in my 2001 Sebring Sedan after setting it to zero toe-in, I came close to losing control of the car. Every tiny bump produced a resounding loud “pop” in the suspension, though everything was new. Setting the toe-in to +1° cured both issues.

source

Anyone have a clue on this one? Bonus question: what should be the deviation between the leading and trailing edge of the tires in inches to achieve a +1° toe-in?[/quote]

Icon_xof · Post by **Icon_xof** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:27 pm

Well, I don't have a 22mm wrench to undo the tie-rod ends to make the adjustment. I measured my tread depth and there doesn't appear to be any excessive wear as of yet, so I'm just going to hold off until I have the flow to get the full alignment.

jrumann59 · Post by **jrumann59** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 10:52 pm

depending on your application ideally a little toe in is better because the Neon toes out on acceleration. 0 toe is fin though a little toe in is good but will wear tires a little faster

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:17 am

one full degree toe in is too much to be in spec.....i dont remember the exact specs off hand, but i believe its between 0.3-0.6degrees for the acceptable range...

the only way to prevent toe out under hard acceleration is to use solid (rage-tek or similar metal) lower control arm bushings... urethane will reduce the toe out, but not eliminate it

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 9:42 am

viewtopic.php?t=45615

There you go.