Coilovers

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
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shaw0050
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Coilovers

Post by shaw0050 » Sun May 13, 2012 3:37 pm

My rear stock struts had lowering springs put on them by my car's previous owner, and well, they're awful now, so I've been looking for cheap replacements. I'm new to suspensions in general, and found these on Craigslist. The only thing the posts says about them is that they're for a Dodge Neon. So I have two questions. Do coilovers replace the entire strut, or would I need something else to make these work on my car? And, is there anyway to tell if these will work on my car?

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nerox
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Post by nerox » Sun May 13, 2012 3:51 pm

They look like cheap eBay style coilover sleeves...

if they are ... STAY AWAY ...

never go cheap on things like suspnesion and brakes. search on here about some PROPER coilovers or Tokico Struts with some good lowering springs
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Neon4Life
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Post by Neon4Life » Sun May 13, 2012 9:29 pm

Those shown in pic are deffinitely the cheap Ebay $30 coilover sleeves.. true coilovers replace the entire strut & cost at a minimun of about $850 usually. Most who get full coilovers use the Megan or BC coilovers.


Stay away from those shown in pic.. it will ride & feel like crap.
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Sat Jul 07, 2012 4:45 pm

which is better between the two Megan or BC. MPX has a blog about them and i still cant make up my mind. i want all wheels to be able to have camber and i think the Megans have that on all four of them not just the front like the BCs am i correct.
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nerox
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Post by nerox » Sat Jul 07, 2012 5:18 pm

Megan's are BCs just rebranded.

In fact I have Megan's which over here are just called BC-V1

They have front camber plates
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Sun Jul 08, 2012 2:41 pm

orangeneon05 wrote:which is better between the two Megan or BC. MPX has a blog about them and i still cant make up my mind. i want all wheels to be able to have camber and i think the Megans have that on all four of them not just the front like the BCs am i correct.
There's not much difference, but things like:
-anodized strut body instead of painted
-thicker, cleaner welds
-slightly better spring/valve setup

If you need camber plates for the rear, then your alignment guys don't know what they're doing. I can get nearly 2.5* just out of the clevix hole (I think that's what it's called) alone. And that's more than enough unless you hate tires.
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Mon Jul 09, 2012 3:57 am

no i dont hate tires i was just unaware that you can get camber with the coilovers on the rear with out the camber plates.
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:58 pm

there's an oblong shaped hole for the upper knuckle bolt (I believe it's called the clevis or something) that allows a fair amount of adjustment.
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Tue Jul 10, 2012 3:02 am

oh so you should be able to set a camber with that because the strut bolt is not in the dead center of the top plate.
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:08 am

clevix hole
:-k Sounds, interesting.




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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:33 pm

orangeneon05 wrote:oh so you should be able to set a camber with that because the strut bolt is not in the dead center of the top plate.
No, the strut bolt is dead center. Only the fronts allow the strut to move in the top plate (camber plate). I'm talking about the two knuckle bolts at the bottom. The hole for the top knuckle bolt, in the rear coilovers, is an oval, allowing the strut to be moved (camber) before tightening.

Bill, you know what I'm talking about, right?!? Help me out here!! :lol:
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:49 am

so you are cambering the knuckle not the whole coilover.
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:06 pm

...Ugh. I'm not typing up a whole explanation of suspension geometry on my Wii. If you can't understand how an oval bolt hole allows camber adjustment, then buy the megans and be done with it.

The knuckle and coil move together.
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:09 pm

how about one picture of what your saying you know the are a thousand words.
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:14 pm

I'm on a damn Wii. Google 'Coilover clevis hole' and enjoy the wonderful use of your brain.
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:43 am

hahah well thats the problem right there. and i did and from ehat i see you adjust the mounting angle from which the knuckle assembly is set to standard from factory causing the angle from axis y (vertically the strut) and axis x (the horizontal of the hub/ knuckle assembly) therefore causing camber because the angle between the two is larger.

like i said earlier the knuckle and strut are angled away from each other causing camber because the knuckle is angled.
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:26 pm

because i dont wanna see jeff put a wii mote through his screen out of fustration

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there camber plates that black knob slides and adjusts
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:47 pm

yea i figured it out after a while i was just wondering if the back is needed to camber the rear tires. throwing wii mote through a tv would be hilarious to see.
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Fuzzyneon
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Wed Aug 01, 2012 8:26 am

orangeneon05 wrote:yea i figured it out after a while i was just wondering if the back is needed to camber the rear tires. throwing wii mote through a tv would be hilarious to see.
yeah you dont need them but they are nice to have i slammed my 05on megans got alignment never had to touch camber plates
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:30 pm

sweet deal fuzzy. do you have a picture of it slammed? i dont really plane on slamming it to the ground because where i live there are tons of pot holes and they dont plow that well in the winter.
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