Removing LCA bolts w/o breaking stuff? *VIDEO INCLUDED*

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
Post Reply
supertrick_05
2GN Member
Posts: 4225
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Duluth, MN
Contact:

Removing LCA bolts w/o breaking stuff? *VIDEO INCLUDED*

Post by supertrick_05 » Sat Jul 07, 2012 3:32 pm

Last weekend a buddy and I were installing my new suspension components and I was taking the first bolt out of the driver's LCA (the inner rear bolt) and it was getting hard to turn, so I was going backwards to put it back in, and it got hard again (not all the way back in) and I was afraid to snap the bolt so I left it. Mind you, I doused everything with PB Blaster. We're going to be finishing the suspension next weekend and was hoping I could find some answers as to how to do this without breaking anymore shit. Thanks guys/gals!

*NEW* Just made a video tonight of me showing you what little play the bolt has. It also sounds like a lot of dirt and other shit got in around the welded nut inside, hence the crispy sound when I'm moving the bolt back and forth. Thanks for your help guys!

Image
Last edited by supertrick_05 on Wed Jul 11, 2012 11:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Brodie
Image
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be :)

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 19494
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Sat Jul 07, 2012 5:49 pm

PB Blater might penetrate better, but I have broken more bolts off using it than WD40.

If you can spray lube inside the rail through a hole or gap, do that. Keep spraying, and working the bolt back and forth. You won't break the bolt, you will end up ripping the welded nut loose inside there if you push it too hard.

Once you get it out, I would buy new bolts from the dealer, and a jar of antiseize.

Otherwise the old bolt will just rust in place again. The bolts are cheap, compared to breaking that nut off the frame.
Bill
dblsg wrote:ya'll a bunch of post whores
Seriously people, this is 2019 not 1920.
2001 Neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
Help support 2GN!

User avatar
fixitmattman
2GN Member
Posts: 1930
Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2005 10:05 pm
Location: North York

Post by fixitmattman » Sun Jul 08, 2012 2:51 pm

You're kind of damned if you do, damned if you don't. The bolts are completely blind so getting penetrant on them isn't very easy. My suggestion would to be prepared to deal with a broken one and hope it doesn't break when you do the job.
http://www.cardomain.com/profile/fixitmattman
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done

r/tguy02
2GN Member
Posts: 3644
Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:42 pm
Location: carlisle, pa.

Post by r/tguy02 » Sun Jul 08, 2012 3:50 pm

if you manage to get everything out in one piece be sure to at least take a wire wheel to the bolts and clean them up really well and put a bit of antiseize on the threads.
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

User avatar
bone-yard-racing
2GN Member
Posts: 2328
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:36 pm
Location: York PA
Contact:

Post by bone-yard-racing » Sun Jul 08, 2012 7:01 pm

Image

gilly02le
2GN Member
Posts: 1423
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 12:13 am
Location: Kingston, Ontario, Canada
Contact:

Post by gilly02le » Mon Jul 09, 2012 11:20 am

i find the bolts break more often then not, because of the rust buildup on the extra threads that hang into the crossmember. loosen them until they start to hang up, then tighten them again, going back and fourth like that usually keeps them from breaking in my experience. Takes longer, but clears some of the rust. Imagine your tapping a bolt hole, same idea, reverse it every so often to help clear the rust. Breaker bar to start them, and then impact them out. The angled motion from breaker bars is usually what breaks the cage nut free from its welds, so avoid using one once the bolts start to loosen.

And i agree with r/tguy, A wire wheel and anti seize compound for reinstall. Never had any bolts loosen up on me, and i've been able to get all the bolts out 3 times now in total, without anything breaking.
New Sig Time.

supertrick_05
2GN Member
Posts: 4225
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Duluth, MN
Contact:

Post by supertrick_05 » Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:00 am

TTT with new added video I made tonight. Thanks again guys for your help!
-Brodie
Image
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be :)

gilly02le
2GN Member
Posts: 1423
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 12:13 am
Location: Kingston, Ontario, Canada
Contact:

Post by gilly02le » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:14 am

i hate to say it, but it sounds like the nut broke free. i would try to impact it tight again, at this point its not going to hurt much if it is broken. I also agree i highly doubt it could come out on its own and long as you don't take it offroading, lol.
you may end up making an access hole in the floor to get to the rusted nuts hidden inside that closed pocket. sucks if thats the case, but i personally would just make a 1" hole for a socket to fit through, and then use a 1" rubber plug to cap the hole. easy access for later! Regardless, an impact gun will get you fixed up much faster, even if just electric(which still work well)
New Sig Time.

r/tguy02
2GN Member
Posts: 3644
Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:42 pm
Location: carlisle, pa.

Post by r/tguy02 » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:26 am

:withstupid:
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

gcretro
2GN Member
Posts: 328
Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2011 4:01 pm

Post by gcretro » Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:04 pm

So there is no way to spray PB blaster to that NUT? without drilling?

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 19494
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:29 pm

There are a few "openings" in the frame, you just got to be creative with the skinny red tube they supply with the penetrating oil. At least I was able to blast away randomly at mine when I changed the crossmember.

Mine were a bit rusty, so I replaced all 4, including the front nuts. (Those have an ear welded to them to keep them from spinning totally.) I antiseized the hell out of the new bolts.
Bill
dblsg wrote:ya'll a bunch of post whores
Seriously people, this is 2019 not 1920.
2001 Neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
Help support 2GN!

supertrick_05
2GN Member
Posts: 4225
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Duluth, MN
Contact:

Post by supertrick_05 » Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:16 pm

Yeah I think we're going to cut an access hole to get to the nut and just work it like that. Someone on the forum already did it and looks fairly simple. I think my problem lies in that I tried to remove the bolt with the ratchet/breaker bar and not just break it loose with it and zip it out with the impact. Guess we'll try that with the other side. Will be taken care of this weekend (I hope...)
-Brodie
Image
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be :)

NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor
Posts: 2248
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:24 am
Location: IL./WI.border

Post by NickKo » Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:11 pm

supertrick_05 wrote:Yeah I think we're going to cut an access hole to get to the nut and just work it like that. Someone on the forum already did it and looks fairly simple. I think my problem lies in that I tried to remove the bolt with the ratchet/breaker bar and not just break it loose with it and zip it out with the impact. Guess we'll try that with the other side. Will be taken care of this weekend (I hope...)
Are you going to be cutting a hole in the floor, above the frame where the nut goes ?
That's what Chrysler recommends.

The floor is actually 'embossed' or 'indented' at the location of that nut... To mark it for easy drilling and cutting.


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

supertrick_05
2GN Member
Posts: 4225
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Duluth, MN
Contact:

Post by supertrick_05 » Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:52 pm

I've seen that in the 1st gens, but not 2nd gens.
-Brodie
Image
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be :)

gcretro
2GN Member
Posts: 328
Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2011 4:01 pm

Post by gcretro » Wed Jul 25, 2012 7:39 pm

oh wow. it would be great if it was indeed embossed or marked out.

can some one put a picture show the position on the floor pad to drill? for a 2gen that is

NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor
Posts: 2248
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:24 am
Location: IL./WI.border

Post by NickKo » Wed Jul 25, 2012 10:21 pm

gcretro wrote:oh wow. it would be great if it was indeed embossed or marked out.

can some one put a picture show the position on the floor pad to drill? for a 2gen that is
CHECK OUT the pictures that Ben posted in his project log:

viewtopic.php?p=614151#614151

This might help. :thumbup:


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

supertrick_05
2GN Member
Posts: 4225
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Duluth, MN
Contact:

Post by supertrick_05 » Sun Jul 29, 2012 5:47 pm

I drilled a 1.5" hole with a hole saw on the side of the wheel well and got to them like that. The torch on the nut and getting it orange hot...the bolt zipped right out! It looked like it was fuzed together though before we heated...looked pretty bad. Now all is well...just gotta get an alignment.
-Brodie
Image
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be :)

NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor
Posts: 2248
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:24 am
Location: IL./WI.border

Post by NickKo » Sun Jul 29, 2012 11:34 pm

supertrick_05 wrote:I drilled a 1.5" hole with a hole saw on the side of the wheel well and got to them like that. The torch on the nut and getting it orange hot...the bolt zipped right out! It looked like it was fuzed together though before we heated...looked pretty bad. Now all is well...just gotta get an alignment.
Drilling through the *side* of the frame is very tempting ( I know, I am tempted to do this on mine) - but not a good way to go about this ..... since it will compromise structural integrity.

If I did this, I would have someone weld a plate over the hole in the side of the frame - Partly to keep dirt and moisture out, and also to add rigidity.
Then, I would primer & paint it real good.


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

supertrick_05
2GN Member
Posts: 4225
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Duluth, MN
Contact:

Post by supertrick_05 » Sun Jul 29, 2012 11:54 pm

That is what i am going to do...i kept the pieces I cut out and will get them welded back in.
-Brodie
Image
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be :)

NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor
Posts: 2248
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:24 am
Location: IL./WI.border

Post by NickKo » Mon Jul 30, 2012 12:16 am

supertrick_05 wrote:That is what i am going to do...i kept the pieces I cut out and will get them welded back in.
Cool. :thumbup:

Running around with a hole in the frame, would be a really Bozo idea. :clown: __ :lol:


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

Post Reply

Return to “Suspension, Steering & Brakes”