How much negative camber is too much?

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my87csx481
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How much negative camber is too much?

Post by my87csx481 » Tue Aug 14, 2012 11:17 pm

I know this depends on too many things but, I'm curious, so I'll ask anyway:

Did you find a negative camber angle that yielded diminishing results? Or was so much that it had a negative impact on traction? What were you running for suspension components?

Sorry if this has been discussed. I couldn't find anything within the first page of thread titles, using the search.
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Wed Aug 15, 2012 12:09 am

Is this for a street or track setup?

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Post by my87csx481 » Wed Aug 15, 2012 11:57 am

Well, for street, autocross, and track.

I ask because right now, I have many degrees of negative camber. I have no idea how much, yet. I am trying to confirm some things that I felt while driving the car as being camber related.
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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Wed Aug 15, 2012 12:33 pm

There is no real right answer to that question (besides possibly more than 5 degrees :lol: ) because the type of track has so much to do with camber settings. A flat parking lot where you would run a slower autocross would demand less camber than say a higher speed 1.5 mile road course that may have some banked or off-camber turns. An all out high speed high banked course would dictate even different settings.

Daily driving settings would be geared towards maximum tire life and comfort...unless you do any of the above racing. Then you probably have slightly more aggressive camber just in case.

There are other factors people who race use to determine how much camber to run on a given course as well. I'll let those more experienced chime in on that.
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Post by my87csx481 » Wed Aug 15, 2012 12:40 pm

I'll be doing the North Course at Pocono Raceway on the 25th. :D

I remember the turns being mostly flat....but that was 4 years ago.

I'm planning on an autocross alignment but, I'm debating to leave it as is until after the track day. Although, it was kinda scary in the heavy rain this morning.

Working on negotiating with an alignment shop this afternoon....see if they'll give me a break on two alignments.
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Post by Danteneon » Wed Aug 15, 2012 12:49 pm

Depending on the rest of your suspension, when the car is thrown into the corner, you want to maximize your contact patch by allowing the tire to be as vertical as possible. On a flatter road course, I would probably start with 1.5* camber and watch how the tires are wearing. If possible, having someone take pictures of your car in corners is very helpful not only for alignment, but also suspension set-up and driving line.

This is where having camber plates is very helpful.
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Post by trojmn » Wed Aug 15, 2012 2:29 pm

A real good way to tell is to buy/borrow a pyrometer. Your tire construction, car, course, and driving style dictate the ideal setting...

That said I just do some heavy figure 8's/AUTOX and if your having the trouble staying off the sidewalls after pressure adj, you need more. uncomfortable with accell/braking? too much camber ! ...test...repeat after all that i end up with max-ing out the adj at the strut clevis bolts with OEM bolts, then however much camber is included with the strut mounts at max castor. After the above method for 2years, i bought a pyrometer to make sure i was maximizing grip.... and sure enough even temps all around !!.... +5F just on the very edge (usually overdriving symptom)

Long story short you need as much as it saves your tires.

i wound up with -2.6 F everyday DD . I drive that way year round.. It will accentuate hydroplaning a poor tire in heavy wet and snow. ONLY toe will accelerate wear so make sure its dead on your number. 0^ F and R for me...

Rear camber -1 to -1.5 works best for me... any more and you get braking issues as the weight transfers.

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Post by my87csx481 » Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:29 pm

Thanks guys for the input.

I looked at the ground control camber plates but, they don't work with stock type springs. I suppose they're for coilovers. I dunno.

I wish I just went with coilovers in the first place.
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Post by Danteneon » Thu Aug 16, 2012 8:59 am

my87csx481 wrote:I wish I just went with coilovers in the first place.
You will say this more and more often as you get back into track racing :lol:
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Post by ragek23 » Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:22 pm

:withstupid: :D

especially with camber plates :).

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Post by jrumann59 » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:44 am

Camber on the front will effect acceleration and possible braking. A couple of degrees of camber in the rear is good for cornering I wouldn't exceed 5 on a daily driver. in the front no more than a degree or 2 max.
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Post by dblsg » Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:40 am

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Post by occasional demons » Tue Aug 21, 2012 12:26 pm

Why does the gurl hide behind the car? :D
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Post by jrumann59 » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:55 pm

occasional demons wrote:Why does the gurl hide behind the car? :D
Because she looks like a pre-schooler :thumbup:
bone-yard-racing wrote:
Remind him of two things for the mustang:
Slow in=Fast out
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Post by my87csx481 » Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:00 pm

Do you think I could get me neon to look like that with crash bolts? Or do you think I'll need to slot the struts?
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Post by bone-yard-racing » Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:17 am

Tire width is a huge factor I would run 3.5+ with 225s I am just below 2.75 with 245s should be around 2 on 275s

For Pocono run as little as possible if you're going to try on the oval my autox setups have always been just a little scary above 100mph
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Post by my87csx481 » Sun Sep 02, 2012 12:34 pm

I'm running 205/50/15 summer tires on stock wheels.

Ran the north infield course, which includes only turn 1 of the nascar track. The club I went with runs the north course in a clockwise direction so, opposite direction of nascar.

No pyrometer yet, and I can't trust what the alignment tech says he set my car to. I specifically asked for a print out of the after (I know these can be fudged but still)....and I was not given one.

Despite many disappointing things happening before the track day, I had a blast. Can't wait for next year. 4 more autocrosses left on the schedule for this season.....those will have to suffice.
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