Front end clunk (did a search)
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Front end clunk (did a search)
Hey guys, new to the forum and the Neon. I just picked up a 2001 SE in good shape as a daily driver for work, it will be donated to my oldest step son when he turns 16 in a year. I've searched and not really found a solid answer since as it turns out the Neon can have several fixes depending on the conditions in which the "clunk" occurs. Mine happens when going over bumps. The steering is nice and tight. NO side to side play, no wandering on the road or looseness. When ever I go over rough pavement it chatters/clunks. Almost like Morse code. From what I've read so far this is usually the upper strut mounts? Any advice would be helpful, such as how to test upper strut mounts. Also, no creeking or clicking when turning t he wheels or going over bumps. CV shafts seem to be in good shape. Tires are relatively new and balanced.
Thanks again!
G
Thanks again!
G
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- DetergentCandy
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Bad sway bar bushings/endlinks can cause a rattle similar to the upper mounts also.
Most of this stuff can be seen with a visual inspection. Be sure to soak the sway bar end links with penetrating oil also. They need to come off to remove the LCA.
If the car has over 50,000 miles, chances are the rear vertical LCA bushings are toast anyways. The rear vertical bolt is the one that needs lots of soaking. Spray it into the frame through any holes near the bolt. aim it as well as you can. (Rear as in the arm, not the car.)
Like Chad said a few weeks prior, and everyday will make your life a little better. The weld nut inside the frame is known to break off in there, and cutting a hole in the floor board is how you get the nut off the bolt.
viewtopic.php?t=64115
If you like more of a challenge, you can go with Energy suspension replacements for maximum fun, or Prothane for middle of the road fun. More folks have issues with ES than PT.
Or you can get complete replacement arms with all installed. Which if your LCA's are rusted badly, might be the better short term option. You can upgrade the bushings or wait a bit for the pre installed ones to fail.
Most of this stuff can be seen with a visual inspection. Be sure to soak the sway bar end links with penetrating oil also. They need to come off to remove the LCA.
If the car has over 50,000 miles, chances are the rear vertical LCA bushings are toast anyways. The rear vertical bolt is the one that needs lots of soaking. Spray it into the frame through any holes near the bolt. aim it as well as you can. (Rear as in the arm, not the car.)
Like Chad said a few weeks prior, and everyday will make your life a little better. The weld nut inside the frame is known to break off in there, and cutting a hole in the floor board is how you get the nut off the bolt.
viewtopic.php?t=64115
If you like more of a challenge, you can go with Energy suspension replacements for maximum fun, or Prothane for middle of the road fun. More folks have issues with ES than PT.
Or you can get complete replacement arms with all installed. Which if your LCA's are rusted badly, might be the better short term option. You can upgrade the bushings or wait a bit for the pre installed ones to fail.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
I'm going to add to this thread instead of creating a new one. I also have been having an issue with clunking in the front when traveling over broken concrete and bumps in the road. Like toothlessrooster, " The steering is nice and tight. NO side to side play, no wandering on the road or looseness. When ever I go over rough pavement it chatters/clunks.". Anyhow I've replaced the lower control arm bushings with prothanes, changed my sway bar bushings, and put an Impact on all front end bolts (suspension and subframe). No change. I disconnected my sway bar links to make sure it wasn't them. It wasn't. I thought maybe my struts were shot. I swapped them for a known good set. Still there. I also checked to make sure the ball joint bolts were installed the correct direction, they are. The only thing I didn't change was the top mounts on the struts. Is it possible that those are the issue? I can feel the bump in the floor also. I'm stumped!
Everytime it dings someone in your county does a ricer flyby.
Neons are just smart like that... heydockyle
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Yes, the top mounts can cause that.
They are about $36 a side for Duralast, from AutoZone. About $10 higher than when I got one... (I only used the bearing from it, to repair my relatively new Mopar one. It got damaged when the spring broke.)
Part Number: 142932
Seeing as you have about eliminated every other option...
They are about $36 a side for Duralast, from AutoZone. About $10 higher than when I got one... (I only used the bearing from it, to repair my relatively new Mopar one. It got damaged when the spring broke.)
Part Number: 142932
Seeing as you have about eliminated every other option...
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
FYI They are about $26 on rockauto.comoccasional demons wrote:Yes, the top mounts can cause that.
They are about $36 a side for Duralast, from AutoZone. About $10 higher than when I got one... (I only used the bearing from it, to repair my relatively new Mopar one. It got damaged when the spring broke.)
Part Number: 142932
Seeing as you have about eliminated every other option...
2002 Neon SXT Sold
2006 EVO MR Weekend Warrior
2003 SRT 4 DD
-Kevin
First time I have ever heard of that being a factor.... But it makes sense !!bigbird wrote:Resolved! Turns out my center/rear motor mount was bad causing the engine to bang around over bumps! DOH!
I wonder how many other folks are having this same issue and don't know about it ??
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
Probably quite a few. Interestingly, I didn't have the normal symptom of a bad/broken center mount, which is increased vibration.NickKo wrote:First time I have ever heard of that being a factor.... But it makes sense !!bigbird wrote:Resolved! Turns out my center/rear motor mount was bad causing the engine to bang around over bumps! DOH!
I wonder how many other folks are having this same issue and don't know about it ??
- Nick
Everytime it dings someone in your county does a ricer flyby.
Neons are just smart like that... heydockyle
I had the same issue with my 05 sxt. I changed EVERYTHING in the front. Did a new steering rack, complete LCA with everything installed, top hats, struts, still didn't fix it ... so I sold it to my ex and bought an srt4. Problem solved !!!
Official " I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies " Club # 132
Jason
Jason
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The horrible vibration is one of the last symptoms, it's when the mount is completely shot. Mine had the clunking for a good 10-15k miles before the vibrations really started.bigbird wrote:Probably quite a few. Interestingly, I didn't have the normal symptom of a bad/broken center mount, which is increased vibration.NickKo wrote:First time I have ever heard of that being a factor.... But it makes sense !!bigbird wrote:Resolved! Turns out my center/rear motor mount was bad causing the engine to bang around over bumps! DOH!
I wonder how many other folks are having this same issue and don't know about it ??
- Nick
It can be sneaky when it's going bad, like symptoms will come and go just to confuse you. You can end up replacing a lot of parts before realizing it's the motor mount, it can be really frustrating.
sorry to bump this thread but was OP's issue ever resolved? im having the exact same problem and getting rdy to take my neon to the shop. 01se 78k same symptoms as OP and a definte down clunk-up clunk when turning left into work small dip up on drivers side. can also feel say going 20ish, let off gas, hit gas, can feel front end give and pull like somethings loose.
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000082