2GN.ORG

Today when I get home there should be a big box wainting for me! Inside the box should be the rest of my suspension. So as of right now I have:

Hotchkis SRT-4 Sway Bar Kit
Tokico SRT-4 5-Way Adj. Struts
Eibach Springs Pro Kit
Mopar Rear Control Arms
Mopar Rear Tension Strut Kit
AFX Front Strut Bar
AFX Rear Strut Bar
Energy Suspension Bushing Kit

What else do you think I might need? I'm gonna start taking pic and working on the suspension tomarrow. Once its done, I'll be ready to drop the engine in!

If you want Auto-X like setup, ditch the Eibach springs. they are not strong enough. Im ditching mine to go to the hotchkis springs, which are much stiffer. Outside of that, your tires are your bottleneck (well, depending on camber adjustment too! -2.5 front and 0 to -.5 in rear is what i recommend)

what are the spring rates between the 2?

i thought the hotchkis springs were softer?
My buddies SRT has the sways and springs and he bottoms out the struts all the time whereas my Eibachs dont.

you need coilovers

i know i need coilovers, but i didnt want to spend that money now, i still have to buy other stuff for the car to get it running again.

i cant find spring rates for the eibachs.

hotchkis = 230/200
eibach pro = ?/?

You need some camber plates and 'traction' bushings haha

I wanna know your input of the mopar rear lateral links.

ill have them on the car by the end of the week, but because i dont have the engine in yet i wont be able to test them.

what traction bushing? i thought you couldnt do camber plates with sturts(ground control). if you can what kind, how much, and where at?

Whops Saw the word coilovers in the thread and they just came to mind.. n/m haha

Traction bushings... Rage-Tek makes them and PSI-FI but I like the Rage-Tek better. Check out my review in the parts review board.

i just had the energy bushing pressed in the front arms. so the others are better?

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthr ... pring+rate

Springs rates. Looks like Hotchkis is the stiffest spring until you go coil-over.

Your buddy with the SRT-4 that bottoms on the hotchkis is due to either too large of bumpstops, or because his SRT-4 struts have a higher spring purch (which means shorter springs), therefor giving you a bit more travel distance with a neon (assuming you are not an SRT-4)

teamliviD wrote:i just had the energy bushing pressed in the front arms. so the others are better?

Yeah... the 'traction' bushings are a completely solid billet pivot point where there isn't any give and keeps a full range of motion. So going around a bend a a high speed the control arms aren't gonig to deflect at the bushings under the stress.

http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=1104

Diablo0 wrote:

teamliviD wrote:i just had the energy bushing pressed in the front arms. so the others are better?

Yeah... the 'traction' bushings are a completely solid billet pivot point where there isn't any give and keeps a full range of motion. So going around a bend a a high speed the control arms aren't gonig to deflect at the bushings under the stress.

http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=1104

I read on the SRTforums that some guys actualy cracked their C-arm though not sure how often this is though.

Thats ususally due to them overtightening the front bushing putting stress on the welds.

Those Rage-Tek bushings are friggin' cool. LiviD? Had you thought about Sportlines instead of Pro Kit? They are much stifffer too. Gotta' get camber adjusters though. And they slip periodically, poo-poo. Works for me though. We almost have identical setups. Wasn't that Energy Bushing a bitch!!?

My ambition is to make something similar to a set of these for a 2nd gen:





My rear most control arm bushinga are in 2 pieces, the arm is just free floating. Car handles like poo and wanders all over

Matt