rear bearings keep goin bad.
rear bearings keep goin bad.
granted i dont put more than 3k a yr on the car, but i have been through 3 rear hub bearings in the past 1.5yrs. replaced both rears, then replaced drivers rear, now drivers rear is whiiiirrrrrring again...
heavy rains means we drive through some high water now and again in florida parking lots. 6" or so in some spots. just finished a real rainy season, and now drivers rear is making the noise again. is it really just a crap product im buying from rockauto?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1432876
i know i got the regular brand, but really, less than 3k miles on 3 hubs total?
i have one spare of that brand in the garage, then i guess ill try to pricier ones,
heavy rains means we drive through some high water now and again in florida parking lots. 6" or so in some spots. just finished a real rainy season, and now drivers rear is making the noise again. is it really just a crap product im buying from rockauto?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1432876
i know i got the regular brand, but really, less than 3k miles on 3 hubs total?
i have one spare of that brand in the garage, then i guess ill try to pricier ones,
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Might just be cheap parts. Are you tightening the retaining nut to spec? I'm not sure it is critical like the front bearings, tho.
But if the parts are not machined properly, the preload on the bearings may not be correct, and the halves may be separating.
AutoZone halfshafts on my mom's Caliber were causing front bearing failures due to the washer bottoming on the stubs. I had to grind a bevel in the inner hole to make them work.
But small things like that can give you a ton of greif until you find the cause.
I haven't had an issue with the Timken unit I installed in my how to, and currently the driver side unit/both fronts is/are still good with over 200,000 miles.
If the grease seals are substandard (despite their claims), they may be letting water in.
But if the parts are not machined properly, the preload on the bearings may not be correct, and the halves may be separating.
AutoZone halfshafts on my mom's Caliber were causing front bearing failures due to the washer bottoming on the stubs. I had to grind a bevel in the inner hole to make them work.
But small things like that can give you a ton of greif until you find the cause.
I haven't had an issue with the Timken unit I installed in my how to, and currently the driver side unit/both fronts is/are still good with over 200,000 miles.
If the grease seals are substandard (despite their claims), they may be letting water in.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
torqued to spec, followed your how-to when i did them
Stupid question, am i supposed to be able to see these bearings like this? when i swapped the last one there was some gunk/grease and a bit of rust around the nut, so water apparently got in.
its a 20min job to swap the rear, so ill throw this on, and order a set of timkens as spares.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b5etnbv5ge5zf ... 0.jpg?dl=0
Stupid question, am i supposed to be able to see these bearings like this? when i swapped the last one there was some gunk/grease and a bit of rust around the nut, so water apparently got in.
its a 20min job to swap the rear, so ill throw this on, and order a set of timkens as spares.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b5etnbv5ge5zf ... 0.jpg?dl=0
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Um no, you should only see a seal. If the one's you put in were like that, the grease had probably slung itself out, and moisture can easily get inside there.
The sealed bearings generally last longer than the old school tapered roller bearings due to the grease is kept packed around the bearings, as long as the seals can keep it there. Failure generally comes from fatigue or a defect that takes some time to manifest itself.
The old school set up will last as long, if they are maintained often enough. But we all know how that works out.
They last at times a million miles in Semi Tractors because they are encased with gear oil. It doesn't get squished out like grease.
The sealed bearings generally last longer than the old school tapered roller bearings due to the grease is kept packed around the bearings, as long as the seals can keep it there. Failure generally comes from fatigue or a defect that takes some time to manifest itself.
The old school set up will last as long, if they are maintained often enough. But we all know how that works out.
They last at times a million miles in Semi Tractors because they are encased with gear oil. It doesn't get squished out like grease.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
Ok thanks. Yeah that's how the old ones looked taking them off. And that's how all the new ones looked so I figured it was normal. I couldn't see a straight on shot in your how to or I might have noticed. I'll order the timkens from rockauto.. Those will have the seal I'm assuming correct? Got a pic of what it SHOULD look like? Because every option on rockauto looks the same and all say pre greased and pre sealed. Even the ones I've been buying.
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Unfortunately those were the only pics I took, and I had tossed the old one, which later sucked because I had a wheel stud on the other side strip out. I had to spend $2 to get a new one, when I had five spares in the old hub.
But you should not be able to see the bearings, that much I can tell you.
This almost looks like it is machined so there is no opening to the outer side:
And the inner side you can see the seal:
But you should not be able to see the bearings, that much I can tell you.
This almost looks like it is machined so there is no opening to the outer side:
And the inner side you can see the seal:
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
I'd go with Timkens any day of the week, given a choice.occasional demons wrote:[i
I haven't had an issue with the Timken unit I installed in my how to, and currently the driver side unit/both fronts is/are still good with over 200,000 miles.
Generally, I have not had many problems with parts that I have ordered from Rock Auto - But that doesn't mean they don't get questionable parts from questionable vendors, from time to time.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
thats what baffles me, the backside is sealed like in the pic above, but the front side all have looked like the pic i linked. ive ordered 4 total of that part and all looked the same over the course of 1.5yrs. im not a mechanic, and went off the how to to do the job since its easy, find it hard to believe the stocks that were on there and the 4 i ordered all look the same on the front where u can see bearings/grease on the front of the hub.NickKo wrote:I'd go with Timkens any day of the week, given a choice.occasional demons wrote:[i
I haven't had an issue with the Timken unit I installed in my how to, and currently the driver side unit/both fronts is/are still good with over 200,000 miles.
Generally, I have not had many problems with parts that I have ordered from Rock Auto - But that doesn't mean they don't get questionable parts from questionable vendors, from time to time.
- Nick
when i swapped em last when i pried off the end cap, the retaining nut was all greasy and wet/rusty, so water is getting in somehow.
here is a question, i did a rear disc swap a long time ago, (i havent been under the car in a long time) i know theres a hole for something back there in the back plate, i cannot remember what it is for, is it supposed to be plugged? i had zero issues until a couple weeks ago had to drive through some 6-8"water a few times a day.
sry for the lengthy questions on a simple issue. been debating on getting a new car, but the neon wont die, had for 11yrs, 78k and not about to go get car payments for a 1k fix of misc issues not including this.
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000082
I suppose the "water problem" could possibly be related to your issue.cgneon wrote: here is a question, i did a rear disc swap a long time ago, (i havent been under the car in a long time) i know theres a hole for something back there in the back plate, i cannot remember what it is for, is it supposed to be plugged? i had zero issues until a couple weeks ago had to drive through some 6-8"water a few times a day.
How about the rear axle nuts ?? (the large one that holds the hub in place)
Have you been using a torque wrench, when re-installing those hub nuts ??
Improper torque, could cause premature failures.
Another thing to consider, is that Chrysler specifies that new hub nuts be installed, after they have been removed. *
These are "nyloc" nuts and should be replaced after removal... Not re-used.
I know that there are cheap Neon owners on this board [like Bill..... or myself] who have re-used the nyloc hub nuts, even though you are not supposed to.
*IF* you do this, be sure to use some Locktite..... And a torque wrench.
You don't want those coming loose on you, as you drive ......
- Nick
* [ Standard Disclaimer: Disregarding Proceedure, as outlined in the Factory Service Manual, could be Hazardous to your health.]
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
How many times have they been re-used ??cgneon wrote:Reused the nut with loctite and torque wrench yes.
I haven't yet re-used mine, more than twice.
A 3rd time might be pushing it. I haven't tried to find out yet.
If nothing else, you may want to purchase new ones from the dealer, if they have been 're-reused' too many times.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009