wheel bearings/knuckle replacement

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
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gtxtreme19
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wheel bearings/knuckle replacement

Post by gtxtreme19 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:22 pm

Wondering if there are any bolt in hub type knuckles that bolt onto our cars relatively easy? I did search for it but didn't feel like sifting through 14 pages of info that doesn't pertain to the situation. Do the shadow knuckles fit? The axles do so it might have a chance?
-Mike
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:46 pm

Off-topic but 2GN Neon rear knuckles and SRT-4 rear knuckles aren't the same. :banghead:
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:53 pm

Really? What's different? I'm Assuming the set you bought to fix the issue with the LCA bolt you're having didn't work?
-Mike
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:07 pm

Shadow knuckles will work, but you will need to make shims so the strut clevis will fit. The strut attaching point is a bit thinner. (The 1gn crowd mills the 2gn knuckles to fit.)

I doubt there is a strength issue, as P bodies are just as heavy as a 2gn neon, if not heavier. They did put V6's in them after all.

If I had a clean 2gn, I would use my spare set of knuckles just to do it. Bolt in hubs are the cat's ass.

The SRT rears locate the tension strut inward more for tire clearance.

The geometry with the Shadow knuckles is also better for handling on lowered cars. It also seems to make an improvement on stock height. It pushes the LCA about an inch lower.

You may need to change inner tie rod ends as ATX and MTX inners are different on 2gn's.



http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=123&t=381582
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:45 pm

So some .3 shims would be the easy bit, I think my tie rods need replaced soon anyway so no biggie there, which would I replace with? I read somewhere that the ball joint needs a bigger nut, any idea why this is? on top of all that there is the option of upgrading to 11 inch brakes which would be a plus so long as I don't have to upgrade the MC as well.

edit:
google search is so much easier than 2gn and neons.org but i did find this. Tie rods may not be necessary
rotty wrote:Top: Neon
Bottom: Shadow

ImageImage

As mentioned, LCA ball joint mount is further (lower) from center on the shadow, giving the mechanical advantage in corners. The shadow parts do weigh a few pounds more obviously.

occasional demons wrote:The only thing I can tell is it seems to have a tighter turning radius than it did with the 1gn knuckles. Which is a good thing in my book.
I'm not sure how turning radius is different, because tierod mount is same distance from center on both knuckles.
-Mike
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Oct 23, 2014 5:42 pm

The ball joint stud and pinch bolt are massive compared to the neon ones.

Basically the same diameter as the strut clevis bolts.
Image

Image
occasional demons wrote:Shadow/Caravan Ball joint pinch bolt is becoming scarce from the dealer. The nut is disco'ed. When I get the two bolts from the dealer later this week, I'll post the thread size/pitch, unless someone knows it off the top of their head.

Damn, hard to believe it's been over 2 years now...

Bolt: M14 x 2.0 x 70mm Class 10.9 Nut: M14 x 2.0 metal lock nut. Class?
Image

PN: 6502336, incase you can't see the numbers well enough in the pic.
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:17 pm

it doesn't look like it but is the bolt knurled at the base like the strut bolts?
-Mike
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Fri Oct 24, 2014 1:12 am

gtxtreme19 wrote:Really? What's different?
This...
OB wrote:Regarding the tension strut:

Image
04R/T wrote:I dug up a diagram of SRT and Neon rear knuckles overlaid that someone posted somewhere, I see that besides the tension strut mount moving inboard, the lateral arm mount point differs slightly. ...So like you said, if one were to swap knuckles, the camber would change.

Image
gtxtreme19 wrote:I'm Assuming the set you bought to fix the issue with the LCA bolt you're having didn't work?
Didn't get a set, just one still attached to its spindle so I still need one more. These are the first junkyard parts to be installed on my car- I'm really not happy about Mopar discontinuing these parts. :cussing:
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Oct 24, 2014 10:18 am

gtxtreme19 wrote:it doesn't look like it but is the bolt knurled at the base like the strut bolts?
No it isn't knurled. IIRC, it is a bit shorter. You may be able to cut down and remove the knurling from the strut bolts and use them if you have spares.

But it was only $12 for new ones. In the case you can't obtain them tho...


Edit: Oh sure David, out do my explanation with pictures and diagrams! :rofl:
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Fri Oct 24, 2014 10:27 am

Oh come on, you know he had those images all qued up since his first reply. He was waiting for someone to ask him when you ninjad him
-Mike
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Skitlz wrote:Gramps, get a GPS.
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Oct 24, 2014 12:22 pm

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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Post by thomas_w » Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:36 pm

occasional demons wrote:You may be able to cut down and remove the knurling from the strut bolts and use them if you have spares.
Not sure I would do that since those are discontinued as well and you may need one eventually.

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:51 pm

The fronts still come up as available, but not the rears.
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Fri Oct 24, 2014 11:21 pm

I'll likely just buy new nuts and bolts from the local hardware. They tend to keep a better stock than even fastenal and they keep all the heavy duty stuff and strange sizes in stock. I'm headed to at least one junk yard tomorrow to see if they have any shadows the proper year. Hopefully I score
-Mike
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Skitlz wrote:Gramps, get a GPS.
Gramps Prefers Streetmaps. :D

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Post by Midnight_Rider » Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:51 am

occasional demons wrote:...Oh sure David, out do my explanation with pictures and diagrams! :rofl:
gtxtreme19 wrote:Oh come on, you know he had those images all qued up since his first reply. He was waiting for someone to ask him when you ninjad him
:laughing3: No, I didn't but I'll take the credit. :twisted:
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:01 pm

gtxtreme19 wrote:I'll likely just buy new nuts and bolts from the local hardware.
Just be sure they are better than Class 8.8. The stock ones are 10.9. IIRC, the torque on those pinch bolts is 105 ft/lbs.
Bill
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:11 pm

Yeah the last nuts and bolts I bought were 10.9 or better I think. Like I said they keep a very good stock
-Mike
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