Better living thru Chemistry --- Oil and Fuel Additives

[mobay1517]

Neon = 2001 R/T (only mod is K& N filter and the stock air cleaner resonator cover removed)
Mileage = at present it is 115, 600. I drive 500 miles EVERY week on my commute to work
Oil used = Havoline 5W-30 full synthetic with Bosch long interval oil filter
Last oil change and when Lubegard added = 111,600 miles
How is the car driven = regular shifts to 4000-5000 occasional shifts to 5500 ..,70-85MPH commute

First off, I'm basically a skeptic regarding oil, and fuel additives. The only one I’ve sworn by are Marvel Mystery Oil, and now LubeGard Biotech oil protector. These two additives have gotten 95 to 99% favorable reviews and in LubeGard’s case have been recommended by GM, FORD and others, as their in-house fix for transmission problem. More on that later.
Now before you click out of this diatribe, be patient, and bear with me.
LubeGard Biotech Oil Protector is a product that I’m really excited about that probably no one ( or very, very few ) have heard about. LubeGard Biotech oil protector is one of many spin off products whose foundation is a compound called LXE ( Liquid Wax Ester ) which is patented and owned by LubeGard’s parent company ILIC.
ILIC ‘s claim to fame is that it developed al substitute for Sperm Whale Oil ( SWO) which was used in automatic transmissions prior to the ban on slaughtering these gently giants ( 1970’s )to get their oil. Once ( SWO ) was no longer available and manufacturers used other lubricants, failure rates for automatic transmissions went up dramatically. ILIC partnered with the inventor of Mobil 1( Professor Phillip Landis - look him up in Google!) to develop a substitute that would be 1) as slippery, as SWO, and also be able to, 2) mix with oil, 3) attract itself and the oil to metal surfaces , and 4 ) transfer heat from one metal surface to another (crankshaft and con rod bearings to the crankscase). It also would have to be able to survive (like SWO did) high heat without turning into a burnt caramel colored sludge. After trail an error, a lubricant was developed using rapeseed oil that was chemically altered. (Originally they used jojoba oil but jojoba is too hard to procure) to match and indeed exceed SWO’s properties
Hence the name “ BIOTECH” . LXE was found to be more than just beneficial when used in automatic transmissions , and for certain GM and Ford transmissions it was noted in their service bulletins sent to dealerships to add ILIC’s LXE to the transmission AS THE ACTUAL FIX FOR TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS!!
That’s gotta show something about its effectiveness. So, here’s a GM, Ford, Chrysler service center that works on wayward transmissions, and in the corner for Frank the local grease monkey to pour into the transmission are unmarked , dull looking bottles of ILIC’s LXE lubricant. Cool.
OK , OK , so what has all of this crap got to do with LUBEGARD’s Biotech?
Well…., one of the spin-off’s of LXE’s chemical makeup , was that it could also be used in many other applications not just Auto Transmissions…, just dilute or concentrate it to suit the need . Unlike the PTFE ( Teflon ) that was used in Slick 50 , Tinfoil, and others , LXE did not clog oil filters or cause seals to leak ( to be fair , I used Slick 50 in the 1980’s in my VW GTI Rabbit, and NEVER had a problem with it , It worked! ) and no threat of lawsuits from the FTC and angry consumers.
Now, I’ll cut to the chase.
On the off chance that all the good reports about LXE and LubeGard Biotech might be true I decided to buy some. What a task that was!
It’s not in most ( if not any, Auto supply stores ) and I was forced to buy it online at Amazon. Bought three 10 OZ bottles for $8.99 each. It’s a dark green in color with the viscosity of a very light mineral oil. It does not feel super slippery ( like Lucas’s Synthetic oil additive ) . I noticed that when a screwdriver was dipped into the bottle that it took some time for it to slide off the metal back into the bottle.
So, I added to the engine oil , I ( one) bottle to my son’s 2000 Neon ES(MTX , of course) with 136,000 miles (oil was new ) and to my 2001 Neon R/T with 111,000+ miles ( oil had been changed at 109,00+ miles).
Within 100 miles my R/T ‘s engine was noticeably smoother between 3000 to redline. Within 1000 miles it’s mechanical “samba” noises of valve, piston slap, etc was quieter and greatly reduced. Gas mileage is now about 32 miles per gallon ( yeah, yeah , not great but I drive fairly fast and not at 55MPH ), instead of 28-30 MPG. The car’s power, seems to be increased , and I wish I could have dynoed it beforehand but did not. The smoothness is what really noticeable. Turbine like at the higher rev’s is the only way I can describe it. Oil consumption has not changed and I attribute that to the R/T’s ( all of em”) propensity to loose oil from the valve cover.
With my Son’s 2000 ES Neon , the results were exactly the same, except for the astonishing observation that his oil consumption appears to be dramatically REDUCED .I used to put in about a half quart or more between oil changes and based on oil level checks so far, that amount will not have to be added. This has really impressed me as his car used to be my old daily driver and I know it’s oil consumption very well.
I cannot express my surprise at how smooth the LubeGard Biotech has made these two engines rev at high RPMs’ It is not a physhological mind game that I alone have experience. My son’s remarks to me was if I had done something to the engine’s ECU as he noticed a positive difference at the upper rev ranges on his ES.
I believe this to be because of the Lubricity ( slipperiness?) of the LB and for the fact that it’s supposed to be “polar” ( molecular attraction to metal ). The perceived increase in power would make sense if everything was sliding smoothly and friction was reduced. Temperatures would be reduced to. Since then I’ve bought their Power Steering additive and will report on that later.
This company’s products ARE NOT advertised at all. Their reputation was made with automatic transmissions and the key to most of their products is that their patented LXE compound is the foundation for all of them.
If you can read about them, here’s one link I liked.
http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tp ... /976100234
Thanks for your time. I think this is a great engine protector\enhancer.

Still with me?

Let me talk about Marvel Mystery Oil ( MMO hereafter):
This gem has been around since the early 1900’s. it’s chemical make-up is basically Naptha ( a solvent), Wintergreen fragrance ( great as a mechanic’s cologne) , and a light oil ( probably mineral oil or higher). WHEN ADDED TO FUEL ,It is said to be great for lubricating the upper part of the combustion chamber, cleaning out carbon deposits, and cleaning out fuel injectors,.
WHEN ADDED TO OIL ,It is said to clean out guck and sludge and keep the engine internals clean.
For fuel , I use about 5 ounces to a full tank (12 gal) and the few times I’ve used it in oil , I ‘ve added about 7 ounces to a the crankcase of 4-5 quarts of oil and did a 25 mile trip, then drained the oil.
In my case, I have a 1999 FORD EXPLORER that was slightly missing and would die ( unless you blipped the throttle ) everytime it was restarted other than it’s initial morning start. ( i.e if you stopped at the Post office and tried to restart it would start and then die ). I used MMO for two consecutive tankfuls and the missing and engine dying problem disappeared. I was impressed…, to say the least. I use it now once in four full tank fill-ups for all my cars .
When I got my 2001 R/T ,( with 104,000 miles on it ) I looked at the oil on the dipstick and it was thick and very black ( black oil color BTW, is NOT an indicator of sludge , it just shows you that the detergent in the oil is working ). Prior to my R/T’s first oil change (at 105,600 miles ) I added 7 ounces to the crankcase and ran the car for 25 miles. I then drained the oil and added my usual Havoline synthetic oil . I checked the color of the oil three times weekly thereafter ( Yeah! My R/T uses oil….about a quart or more every 3000 miles) and instead of dark black it was now brown. I once again did the above MMO process to the crankcase and performed another oil change at 109,000 miles ( 3000K oil change? .., I do 5K and now 7K ) . Checking the oil now since the second oil change showed a lighter brown color, light a dark honey. Nowhere as dark before. So did the MMO help to clean out the crankcase? Yes! I strongly believe so. My suggestion is to do this for two oil changes . Add the MMO the day of the oil change and drive the car for 25 miles BEFORE pulling the oil drain plug.
The reason that MMO probably works is that the Naptha in it is a solvent ( although in the amounts they add it is not harmful ,but requires two applications for oil passage cleaning, and fuel injector cleaning. The light oil ,of course ,would act as a lubricant for the upper cyclinder, rings, valves, and combustion chamber. Will it kill a catalytic converter? NOPE, and when you think how long MMO has been around, if damage to cat’s were an issue, they’d have been sued by now. About the worst thing that MMO can do is lessen combustion IF TOO MUCH IS USED, but even then ,reports of problems associated with overuse are rare….. actually …VERY RARE!
Some use SeaFoam for combustion chamber cleaning, but the problem with SEAFOAM ( which is basically water, alcohol, and solvents )is that is can foul Oxygen sensors ( it did it on my Explorer and even worse on my C280 Benz ) . Now your experience may be different, and the white smoke is s-o-o-o-o-o cool, but the fouling problem is something to be aware of .Removing and cleaning an Oxygen sensor is a damn pain in the ass. MMO is more gradual, and you also get injector cleaning and better upper cyclinder lubrication. If one researches on the Internet, reviews of MMO ( particularily bobis the oilguy.com which is a forum for oil change\oil opinions geeks) you can see what the general opinion of MMO is.
So for MMO, I do one treatment after 3 tankfuls, of gas , and in the case of oil , I ‘d add it to an unknown maintained car ( like my R/T was to me ) for two oil changes, and then twice a year thereafter ( assuming you do 3K, 5K , or 7 K oil changes )

MMO is good stuff. Perhaps its name is a bit funky in this day and age, but it (like LubeGard) is one of a very few products that actually can and does work.