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I have a Silver R/T that has some bad spots in paint (little rust, and some scratches and dents.) so when the weather gets warmer, with the help of my dad (painted olden time paint styles?) i want to repaint the whole car. My question is what is everything i will need to paint the car, and how much of it? ex. clear, base, sandpaper?

Anyone have any good suggestions for what brand of paint to look out for?

I already have the spray gun, and the air compressor.

Thanks for the input....

mystykal (sP?) does all his own painting...he could probably give you some good tips.

i just read his thread, he is using PPG products. i have also heard that PPG is some good stuff.

PPG is what I have on mine I believe....I cant recall at the moment. I know its at least 5-6 coats of clear though

I have had OUTSTANDING results from Valspar/House of Kolor products....good luck.

ive alwayus heard good things abotu ppg and house of kolor

i do my own painting, i did a little how-to http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=19876 but that's just the painting part, i'll change that by tonight um, the rusty parts, i recommend 80 grit, then 180 grit, the scratches should be taken out with 180 grit, and anything else with 1000 grit, any bare metal needs to be sprayed with a self etch primer (DPX170), then your primer surfacer over any spots you put body filler on (K36), then sand that with 320 to 400 grit, then spray your primer sealer (2K Chromatic Sealer), then your base coat(DBC500), then your clear(DC3000), then sand out any runs with 800 grit, then sand out ant dust nibs and orange peal out with 1500 grit (take out all the orange peel for a show car finish), then sand with "Trizack" 3000 grit....

then do all your buffing and such

House Of Kolor is AWESOME! it'll just cost an arm and a leg

NOTES: i use all 3M sand paper on a DA sander, all the paint numbers are PPG due to the fact that that's what i use, ask your local paint supplier for the "P-Pages" on the products before you use them

Wow, I never use 800 grit on runs. Thats too rough. I go as low as 1000.

I never use self-etch either. I spray epoxy (DP) over bare metal, then filler work then hi-build.

Runs I use 1000, then 1500, then cut and buff. Never need to go higher than 1500, it's overkill. A couple passes with the buffer is enough for me.

For base I spray 2 wet coats, flash 30 minutes, then 3-4 coats of clear. All wet (med) coats. Let set overnight or force dry in the oven then cut and buff the next day.

wow, not to bash you, but none of that is recommended be PPG, and i wet the 800 grit with degreaser, that's PPG's recommendations.

EVERY coat recommends 10-15 min between coats, if you don't you're running the risk of "lifting"<-- that's BAD

the p-page #s i'm talkin about are as fallows...

-Plastic Adhesion Promoter (DPX801): P-194
-Self-Etch Primer (DPX170): P-191... "1 coat small areas, 2 coats large areas"
-Primer Surfacer (K36): P-169P..."2-4 wet coats
-Primer Sealer (2K Chromatic Sealer): EU-140... "1-2 wet coats"
-Color Blender (DBC500): P176
-High Velocity Clear (DC3000): P236... "2 wet coats"

Hudson_Neon wrote:wow, not to bash you, but none of that is recommended be PPG, and i wet the 800 grit with degreaser, that's PPG's recommendations.

I think if I followed the p-sheets totally, I'd go broke on work. You can bash all you want, but there isn't a shop that totally follows the p-sheets. You can reduce, if you want, add diff hardners, mix, etc.

You don't have to use etch, no one I know uses etch, we use reduced epoxy as a sealer, and shoot it unreduced on bare metal. Wet sanding with degreaser is up to you too. Personal preference. And the 30 minutes was between the base and clear. Which according to the p-sheet I just read said max wait time of 24 hours.

Bash all you want.

from the way you said it before it sounded like you spray 2 wet coats back to back, other than that you are right, the rest is up to the shop/painter

Sorry you misinterpreted my post and "bashed" me for not typing it out verbatim.

There's no point for me to type out a "step by step" on how to paint with real paint on this forum. I don't picture any of them, but a few totally grasping the concept enough to want to try it.

Hence why I typed it out haphazerdly.

mztykal wrote:Sorry you misinterpreted my post and "bashed" me for not typing it out verbatim.

There's no point for me to type out a "step by step" on how to paint with real paint on this forum. I don't picture any of them, but a few totally grasping the concept enough to want to try it.

Hence why I typed it out haphazerdly.

Exactly, I'm learning alot about paint now from work, but I still don't know much. I know just enough to know that there are lot's of different ways of doing things....and I know our paint guy can do amazing work the way he does stuff....and I'm sure very few people do it the exact same way he does.

wow, ALOT of usefull information in this thread

yeah, i have noticed that most people bring thier stuff to shops, but i LOVE painting my own shit, i just invested into a brand new "SATAjet 3000 Digital" and i think i found my new favorite toy, most guns don't even come close to spraying as nice as that gun. it's for sure the best $525 i've ever spent! now all i need to do is open my own shop, too bad that costs more than i can afford

All I have to say is Iwata LPH400.

BEST EVER!

I like it 10x better than the Sata.

LOL at all these names for paintguns that I don't understand....

it's each to thier own, i got an Iwata airbrush and absolutely LOVE it

is there any additives in a base coat, clear coat application? Or will it come in a gallon and all i do is spray it with nothing else?