Damn Trunk

Got a question on outside appearance modifications. Questions about body kits, exterior lighting, just anything thats a visual mod on the "exterior" of the car. Ask those questions here.
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Thu Jun 26, 2008 12:05 pm

That exactly what it is. And no one said to remove it.
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Thu Jun 26, 2008 12:08 pm

I know, I'm just saying that it isn't an option.
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Thu Jun 26, 2008 12:11 pm

I don't have carpet on my trunk lid (yet). Also I've never heard any rattling while driving around with the backseat removed.
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Thu Jun 26, 2008 12:28 pm

Oh ok i get you. And Swordfish2Cowboy Of course you diont have an issue with it. you dont have anything in the trunk to case rattling.
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Thu Jun 26, 2008 1:53 pm

I have subs in my trunk and nothing rattles.... (currently, because the power cable disconnected itself somehow, and I don't have waht I need to reconnect it) :lol:
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:27 pm

HAHA. What do you mean it disconnected itself?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

SOHCKing03
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Post by SOHCKing03 » Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:42 pm

Okay let me do some explaining...

Please do not use Peel and Seal. It will come off in the heat, it will leave marks, and it won't be effective enough.

Here are a few alternatives:

For Low Budgets:

eDead V1 - Cheap, effective. Some have had problems, but I didn't and I used 30 square feet in my doors (multiple layers).

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_inf ... ucts_id=51

eDead V1SE - Still cheap, more effective. Definitely better than V1 and not much more expensive

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_inf ... ucts_id=52

Most Effective:

RaamMat - More expensive than most sound deadeners but BY FAR the MOST effective product out there. If you want to kill all rattles then DEFINITELY use this. Rick (the owner) is also a great guy who I have personally talked to and his customer service is the BEST.

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr

eDead UE - Thickest deadener out there and a great product. I have not heard anything bad about UE and it has been used on MANY sound quality show cars.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_inf ... cts_id=572

There are others out there like Second Skin but I have not personally used them or dealt with them so I will not comment on them.

The problem with Peel and Seal is that it is asphalt based so it is messy and cannot withstand high heat. The ones mentioned above are butyl based and will withstand high heat and are thicker, therefore more effective.

Dynamat is also good but it is very pricey because you are paying for a name brand. It is not worth it for low budgets (personally I don't think it is worth it at all because there are much more effective products out there for less money).

Painted coatings can also be effective but they will not save time because it takes a while to dry and a long time to build up enough coats.

I hope that helps, let me know if you want more information.

-Brad
JDM Neon Crew Member #1

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:42 pm

I mean the crimp is still connected to the amp, but the wire isn't crimped anymore...
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:58 pm

Thanks SOHCKing03. I dont really have any heat problems around here. The highest temp in my area has been 90. And hasnt been near that in a LONG time. I may just be going the spray route. I have no problem waiting for it to dry. but like ive said this aint going to be happening for a lil longer. I hate random shit coming up. But the only question I do have about using the spray is what prep work do i need to do besides cleanin :tardbang:
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

benzsxt
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Post by benzsxt » Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:39 pm

Just use a scuff pad.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:41 am

Alright cool. And one can will be enough right?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Jun 27, 2008 12:24 pm

I kind of doubt it. Personally, I'd get 2 or 3 just to be safe.
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Jun 27, 2008 12:58 pm

Well im only going to do the lid. I still need more than one?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:02 pm

Why stop there, that's only part of what you're hearing?

But yes, 1 can *should* be enough for just the lid. And, as mentioned earlier, you may want to use some seam sealer as well.
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:04 pm

Well my doors rattle a lil bit but noticeable unless u sit there and just listen for it. basically yes the lid is all that rattles enough to bug me
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:07 pm

What is more than likely causing the rattle is the latch, not so much the support pieces on the lid. If you're trying to get rid of the rattle there, I'd use a seam sealer, not the spray stuff.

I was under the impression you were looking to do the whole trunk to keep it from rattling outside the car...
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:43 pm

Oh naw not the whole trunk. F- that too much. I already adjusted the latch (part on the body) and put a lil E-tapeon it and it dummed it down a bit but still rattles like shit. Ive pushed down on the lid and it stopped. Im guessing i just need something that will absorb the vibration on the lid.
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:45 pm

Yeah, when you push it down, you're making the seal between the trunk and lid tighter. Mine does the same thing. Try adjusting your trunk tighter. Adding the stuff on the trunk lid won't really do anything except make your trunk lid heavier.
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:49 pm

What do you mean adjust it tighter?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:55 pm

The hinge point on the body of the car.
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:57 pm

Il be trying that this weekend.
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:59 pm

Or just duct tape your trunk lid shut... that should work too! :lol:
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Jun 27, 2008 3:06 pm

The day shit starts fallin off then il consider duct tape and maybe some super glue. What if i strap 2- 45 lb plates to the underside of it? would that help any? lol
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Tue Jul 01, 2008 1:32 am

So today i got around to tracking down the rattles on my car. And man do i feel dumb as shit now. My trunk isnt noticeable anymore. its actually rattling the driver door. Now im going to have to figure out what to do about that because idk if using the spray stuff is the best idea around the glass. Any suggestions?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Tue Jul 01, 2008 4:56 pm

Tighten whatever is loose?
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Tue Jul 01, 2008 5:20 pm

Well its nothing thats loose. Its like on the center of the driver door. shits rediculous
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:28 pm

If I'm not mistaken, it's the door panel ratling against the door. Not sure how to fix that, however.

If you do try the spray stuff, it SHOULD be OK around glass... provided you're not spraying the stuff inside the door while the window is down, of course...
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:32 pm

lol no its actually the outside of the door.
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:34 pm

Well, you don't want to spray the outside of the door, or you'll have rubberized black paint instead of shiny black paint...?
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Tue Jul 01, 2008 7:24 pm

That i know big dog. Im just saying could i spray it on the inside without damaging anything? Like the handle or shit like that. Should i mask anything?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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