Damn Trunk
- TheRandom1
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I think you could be OK if you are careful about what you're spraying. Obviously stay away from moving parts (window channels, etc) but I've never done it, so you may want to wait for someone who knows wtf they're talking about! 

Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.
haha oh yea i totally forgot about that
Ugh damn what else is inside the door? its been a while since i took off the door panels
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
- TheRandom1
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Well, you have the handle with rods going from it to the inside handle, window with tracks, etc... some wires for your speaker/power options... that should be about it, I think.
While you're spraying just be careful and watch your overspray.
While you're spraying just be careful and watch your overspray.

Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.
Oh trust me il end up masking practicly everything that I could get overspray on. What im actually thinkin of spraying is guna be the door skin. but on the inside.
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
- TheRandom1
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Weather shield?? Is that the stupid plastic thing rite behind the door panel?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
- TheRandom1
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SOHCKing03
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The plastic stuff that is glued over the door skin is not that important. It is more just Dodge's way of cleaning things up a bit. Yes it will prevent water from getting to the door skin, but I covered up all the holes anyways with cardboard and deadened over it. I did that so my speakers were actually sealed and not in a "ported" enclosure. Because essentially your doors are enclosures as far as your speakers are concerned. So sealing them up deepens the bass and creates less rattle (if you deaden of course).
I know guys who have poured cement into their doors and welded the windows up (so they don't go down and hit cement). This adds A LOT of mass to the door which deadens it DRASTICALLY. These were of course show cars but the reason behind it is the same as yours. You just want to add mass to the door panel to make it vibrate less.
For a little extra money you could always glue egg crate foam to the door skin too. It helps to muffle out the vibrations and prevents backwaves from hitting your speakers and canceling out bass.
And before you ask, here is what I mean...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=260-516
-Brad
I know guys who have poured cement into their doors and welded the windows up (so they don't go down and hit cement). This adds A LOT of mass to the door which deadens it DRASTICALLY. These were of course show cars but the reason behind it is the same as yours. You just want to add mass to the door panel to make it vibrate less.
For a little extra money you could always glue egg crate foam to the door skin too. It helps to muffle out the vibrations and prevents backwaves from hitting your speakers and canceling out bass.
And before you ask, here is what I mean...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=260-516
-Brad
JDM Neon Crew Member #1


- Swordfish2Cowboy
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Yea dude the cement is WAAAAY over the top for my application. I didnt even know people did that. I dont want to add mass to the door. I would just like to get rid of the damn rattles
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
- TheRandom1
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occasional demons
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Looks like the contents of your trunk could rattle a few things!Swordfish2Cowboy wrote:Webbing in the trunk? Here is a before picture of my trunk, and its contents:
If you door skin is vibrating against the bracing, possibly the factory "caulk" has broken loose. Try some good RTV type silicone along the crash bracing before you spray deadener on there.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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SOHCKing03
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You don't have to get the foam perfect, just glue it on tight enough so it doesn't fall forward. There is 1 1/2" between the skin and the window so it will be fine.
And I agree that cement is way over the top, that's why I didn't suggest it. Most people using cement are in SQ or SPL competitions since it is not practical for a daily driver.
And you can't say "I don't wanna add mass to the door" because that is exactly what you're trying to do. Spraying deadener on does not just magically kill vibrations, it adds mass to the door which makes it vibrate less. Obviously, it takes more force to move a heavier object so when you keep the force constant (the sound) and add mass then it vibrates less. Mat deadener works the same way (essentially). You are adding mass to the door panel to make it vibrate less, and the viscoelastic properties of the mat take the force of the way, move a bit (hence the butyl or ashpalt base), and then turn the rest of the sound energy into heat.
So you're not magically making vibrations disappear, you're adding mass to make the vibrations less.
-Brad
And I agree that cement is way over the top, that's why I didn't suggest it. Most people using cement are in SQ or SPL competitions since it is not practical for a daily driver.
And you can't say "I don't wanna add mass to the door" because that is exactly what you're trying to do. Spraying deadener on does not just magically kill vibrations, it adds mass to the door which makes it vibrate less. Obviously, it takes more force to move a heavier object so when you keep the force constant (the sound) and add mass then it vibrates less. Mat deadener works the same way (essentially). You are adding mass to the door panel to make it vibrate less, and the viscoelastic properties of the mat take the force of the way, move a bit (hence the butyl or ashpalt base), and then turn the rest of the sound energy into heat.
So you're not magically making vibrations disappear, you're adding mass to make the vibrations less.
-Brad
JDM Neon Crew Member #1


- Swordfish2Cowboy
- 2009 Silver Contributor
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yea but its not as much mass as freakin cement. lol. Oh well im still trying to come up with the money for the stuff so, no updates to post yet
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
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SOHCKing03
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Honestly I would go with like $30 of eDead mat. Spray is more used for covering the whole interior and for the trunk. Spraying doors is risky. I have always been told to use mat on the doors and spray the rest of the car. And after you spray the interior and trunk, you can still use mat. I had a friend who work with Elemental Designs (maker of eDead) and he got me a deal on mine. I'll see if he can pass the deal on to you.
-Brad
-Brad
JDM Neon Crew Member #1


UPDATES YO!!!! So i finally got tyhe funds for the peel & seel and to my surprise the damn thing works!! I had to put two layers of it on the trunk lid and a strip where the latch hooks on to. Il post up pics ass soon as my friends uploads them i also did something else... Not original but i finally got the balls to do it. Pics will be up today
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
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Undesolved
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- Swordfish2Cowboy
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It's actually a Taurus PT145 in .45. Sub-compact. 10+1 with a 3.25" barrel weighing 26 ounces empty. My basic utility pistol.Wenuden wrote:Swordfish2Cowboy wrote:Webbing in the trunk? Here is a before picture of my trunk, and its contents:
Looks like a Springfield armory XD model. What caliber?
I'm not a big fan of the XDs, but I've never shot one. They're like a Glock in my hand. Way too big.
Springfield's 1911s are great, but that's about it for pistols. But at least it's not a High Point. Some guy on the Dodge forum saw that picture and started going on about how he was gonna get one of those. Reminds me why I don't go there anymore.
Alright newb no need to rush. lol jk. he pics are on my friends camera and hes being a lazy ass and hasnt uploaded themUndesolved wrote:hmmm 3 days later and still no pics...
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
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Undesolved
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I posted new pics in my garage of the new mod. I ended up taking off the peel & seel cuz it didnt work for shit. Ima try the rubberized coating next
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
SOHCKing03 wrote: For a little extra money you could always glue egg crate foam to the door skin too. It helps to muffle out the vibrations and prevents backwaves from hitting your speakers and canceling out bass.
And before you ask, here is what I mean...
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=260-516
-Brad
AWESOME stuff. I've been wondering where I can get this stuff.
THANK YOU for posting this link, SOHCKing !!
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
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Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
- Swordfish2Cowboy
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This may have already been mentioned, sorry, but I skipped to the last page and it seems there are still recommendations goin' out.
This is what I know...
Friend of mine did his '69 Camaro SS with Dynamat ( http://www.dynamat.com/ ) all the way around. Floor, roof, trunk, inside of his doors. The difference is night and day completely and totally amazing. A very old rattle-prone vehicle transformed into a showroom 0 mile-like ride. Almost no road noise, no rattles, and his 500 horse 383c.i. engine and loud exhaust can barely be heard inside the car.
The same friend wanted to do the same thing to his '06 GMC Sierra 2500HD. He had a little more area to cover and a little less money to do it with, he found a great alternative. FatMat. http://www.fatmat.com/ Did his whole truck, sounded great already because it's still so new. However, his 36" Super Swamper tires were somewhat annoying when driving long distances on the highway. VERY loud on the inside of the truck. Used FatMat, quite a bit cheaper compared to Dynamat, and got pretty much the exact same outcome.
In a nutshell, Dynamat and FatMat are two GREAT sound deadeners. FatMat being the lesser expensive, and probably a better buy. If I were to guess, Dynamat was the first to come out with a sound deadener of its kind, and you're buying the name mostly (but I could be wrong!! I really have no idea on that...).
Also, both are sticky as all get out. My friend and I both live in southern Oklahoma, 110 F summers and 0 F winters. No problems whatsoever with stick.
...And that's what I know.
Ya'll see that episode of Overhaulin' where Foose put Dynamat in the fiberglass doors, as well as everywhere else, on one of the vehicles they did? Banged on the outside of the door without deadener, then with. Difference is simply amazing!
Good luck
This is what I know...
Friend of mine did his '69 Camaro SS with Dynamat ( http://www.dynamat.com/ ) all the way around. Floor, roof, trunk, inside of his doors. The difference is night and day completely and totally amazing. A very old rattle-prone vehicle transformed into a showroom 0 mile-like ride. Almost no road noise, no rattles, and his 500 horse 383c.i. engine and loud exhaust can barely be heard inside the car.
The same friend wanted to do the same thing to his '06 GMC Sierra 2500HD. He had a little more area to cover and a little less money to do it with, he found a great alternative. FatMat. http://www.fatmat.com/ Did his whole truck, sounded great already because it's still so new. However, his 36" Super Swamper tires were somewhat annoying when driving long distances on the highway. VERY loud on the inside of the truck. Used FatMat, quite a bit cheaper compared to Dynamat, and got pretty much the exact same outcome.
In a nutshell, Dynamat and FatMat are two GREAT sound deadeners. FatMat being the lesser expensive, and probably a better buy. If I were to guess, Dynamat was the first to come out with a sound deadener of its kind, and you're buying the name mostly (but I could be wrong!! I really have no idea on that...).
Also, both are sticky as all get out. My friend and I both live in southern Oklahoma, 110 F summers and 0 F winters. No problems whatsoever with stick.
...And that's what I know.
Ya'll see that episode of Overhaulin' where Foose put Dynamat in the fiberglass doors, as well as everywhere else, on one of the vehicles they did? Banged on the outside of the door without deadener, then with. Difference is simply amazing!
Good luck




