Quarter panel rust...

FormerlyREDRT_98 · Post by **FormerlyREDRT_98** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:06 pm

I've been considering finding a body shop to fix the rust on both quarter panels (between door and wheel well). I was reading a thread earlier that said most shops won't do it, and I have never welded so won't even attempt it myself.
Should I continue with my ideas/plans for the car, or save my money for something else?

fattycrack · Post by **fattycrack** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:11 pm

got any friends that can weld? if so go a t junk yard, cut out the spot u need raplaced from another neon, and have them weld it in. just make sure they dont lay a bead on it. just small tack welds till the edge is completelymated with the body of the car. then u can keep the same exact body lines and u can make a "play with cars" day out of it. (ps it shouldnt take a whole day unless u plan on repainting the whole car.)

FormerlyREDRT_98 · Post by **FormerlyREDRT_98** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 6:07 pm

I've been thinking of doing just that. I know of a guy that can weld. He welded the rear subframe in my VUE when that broke. Maybe I'll do that whenever I get new fenders and have a boy shop paint the hood, fenders and blend in the patches

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:30 pm

I cut mine out and glued in a patch from the back side with structural adhesive. (The same stuff that holds your roof panel on and other things)

No heat to burn the paint off where it cannot be repainted, and no warping. Cut the piece so it can be slid through the hole and pulled against the outer panel. Be sure to dent in the hole edges before gluing the piece in.

I put holes in it so I could use a curved pick to hold it while the adhesive set. Use body filler to level it out.

You are going to want to cut a bigger hole than the rust, as it spreads much farther than what the outside shows.

FormerlyREDRT_98 · Post by **FormerlyREDRT_98** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:34 pm

Oh I know, rust is kinda like an iceberg where you only see the tip of it. I have no idea where to even get that glue or bondo

titansxt · Post by **titansxt** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:37 pm

Carol Stream, eh? Try hitting up U-Pull it in Aurora. 95% of the time there is a 2nd gen or two or ten in the lot.

But then again, there is no hope with the rust. I have it too. Doctor said it is terminal.

OD, I thought our roofs were braze welded? Just like on the Darts.

FormerlyREDRT_98 · Post by **FormerlyREDRT_98** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:15 pm

I've been to that yard, but I prefer the one up in Woodstock. Farther drive, less selection, but much less picked over and better prices. Once the weather warms up and it's not so muddy out maybe I'll go back up a 2gen or two for some replacement sheet metal

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:26 pm

3m 08101

According to the FSM adhesive locations, the roof is glued on the entire length, each side. Also across the middle to the bow support.

There is far more glue than you know holding these together. But to weld everything full length would not be feasible from a manufacturing POV.

They may just spot weld them good enough to pump the adhesive in and done. Faster and stronger. If you have ever tried to separate two pieces of heavy sheet metal that have only been bonded with GE RTV silicone, you would understand. The metal will buckle before the bond breaks.

titansxt · Post by **titansxt** » Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:11 am

Good ol' horse glue.

Our laser-brazed roof removes the ‘ditch molding' common on other compact cars, and replaces it with a smooth upscale appearance.

Per Dodge on the Dart.

titansxt · Post by **titansxt** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:26 pm

FormerlyREDRT_98, ever try replacing the rockers? I just placed and order for a spot weld drill bit. Thinking about hitting up a junk yard and testing it out when it arrives.