Page 2 of 3

Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:30 am
by r/tguy02
i'm gonna dissagree with you on that first one ryan, that def should be done at the same time as the water pump and timing belt. granted it does last longer than the rest of the components but who wants to rip back into the timing belt area just to replace a tensioner? NTM if never replaced it could fail and cause a timing belt failure.

Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:50 am
by neongirl87
OMG! you guys ROCK! i wish i could multi-quote to thank yall for each post and info =)

btw what's a good way to see if the radiator will need replacing soon? i wanted to buy one and get it out of the way, but like yall recommend, if it can hold up a little longer, i can put that money elsewhere

Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:12 am
by occasional demons
If it isn't overheating, It is probably fine.
buy an external oil cooler to bypass the stock one in the radiator and you wont need to worry about the radiator failure killing your transmission
This.

You can multi quote, but it takes some effort. You have to hit the quote tab, select what you want to quote by taking out what you don't want, and then highlight it all and copy. Then hit the back tab, and quote the next person, and repeat.

Or you can just highlight the selected text, copy/paste and the highlight that, and hit the quote tab.

It will only put the person's name in there if you do this:
screen name wrote:yyy[ /quote] I added spaces in the text so it wouldn't work, but you get the idea.

Without spaces:
screen name wrote:yyy
You can copy/paste the screen name between the " " marks

Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:49 pm
by sidepipe87
r/tguy02 wrote:i'm gonna dissagree with you on that first one ryan, that def should be done at the same time as the water pump and timing belt. granted it does last longer than the rest of the components but who wants to rip back into the timing belt area just to replace a tensioner? NTM if never replaced it could fail and cause a timing belt failure.

Yeah, I figured it would be debated by someone, and I've always replaced it yet I've yet to remove one (mechanical) that looked any different than a new one. Sure, I have no way to "measure" whether the spring is still as springy as it was new or if the bearings are worn but meh. I won't disagree it's "cheap" insurance while you're in there already and could fail and ruin your belt. That said, would I risk not replacing one? - yes.... Should the probably less mechanically inclined not replace it the first time around? - I suppose not. While I don't think there's an overwhelming merit to doing it, what the hell, go for it. :)


tldr; replace the tensioner too.

Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 1:38 pm
by A@ron
neongirl87 wrote:btw what's a good way to see if the radiator will need replacing soon? i wanted to buy one and get it out of the way, but like yall recommend, if it can hold up a little longer, i can put that money elsewhere
Does the radiator leak? Does the transmission lines going into the bottom of the radiator leak? Does the car overheat? Is the coolant a good color and not muddy/murky or mixed with oil/transmission fluid. If all those are no you're good for a while until it fails.

What seems to go on them is the transmission cooler lines break off and spew ATF+4 all over the ground. Then you'll need a new radiator or separate transmission cooler.

Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 10:32 pm
by sidepipe87
A@ron wrote: What seems to go on them is the transmission cooler lines break off and spew ATF+4 all over the ground. Then you'll need a new radiator or separate transmission cooler.
If that were all that happens it really wouldn't be an issue. the REAL problem is the cooler portion of the radiator cracks internally, mixing with the coolant and then the sludge goes into the ATX and fucks up the transmission requiring a new one or rebuild.

Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:20 am
by neongirl87
ok thanks guys! thanks for all the help =) can't wait to show pics and keep yall updated

Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:43 am
by slaw
I'm going to agree with Ryan(sidepipe87) , if most of the stuff isn't broken there is no need to replace them. This isn't a general statement about all aftermarket parts, but in my experience alot of the advance auto and auto zone stuff doesn't hold up, so unless you were replacing all that stuff with dealer parts ( which would be insanely expensive) I completely recommend spending money on what's necessary.

Like everyone else has stated you'll be told to lower the car soon so if you have any intentions on that AND you're current suspension is on its way out our being replaced anyway now is your best opportunity

Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 1:15 pm
by neongirl87
well the reason i wanted to buy all the parts already is because, let's say i don't buy certain stuff, then a month or 2 down the road something goes out, and i already spent the money (you know how us girls are hehe =) ) then i would be out of luck

Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 1:30 pm
by occasional demons
Open a separate savings, and put a few hundred in it, and forget it exists, until you need parts. If you can transfer funds between accts online where you bank, and have your check auto deposited, put $25 a pay into it each pay.

Just takes a little will power. :)

Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:22 pm
by Midnight_Rider
IDK, I'm big on buying parts in advance but for another reason- saving them for the future in case Mopar deletes them and they are no longer available. I have run into that situation already. :shock:

Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:32 am
by neongirl87
ok so here is what i just ordered =) can't wait to get them installed and update pics!!!! did i get enough pulleys? is it just 1? LOL sorry i'm new

ok, so this came out to $1100 including shipping, i still have to get tires, and i am spending 4-5 hundred on those, and and would leave me with 200$ to spend on anything else, advice guys!!!!!!

BOSCH 09478 Spark Plug Wire
BOSCH 4418 Spark Plug
GATES 38277 Belt Tensioner
GATES 33849S Thermostat
GATES K040517 Belt
GATES 36156 Tensioner Pulley
K&N HP1002 (HP-1002) Oil Filter
K&N E1006 (E-1006) Air Filter
MONROE 171578 Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assembly
MONROE 171579 Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assembly
MONROE Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assembly
MOPAR Water Pump
POWER STOP K3143 Rotor & Brake Pad Kit
POWER STOP K6266 Rotor & Brake Pad Kit

Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 7:25 am
by r/tguy02
list looks good to me :thumbup:

Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:42 pm
by neongirl87
so is there any bushings, or links or anything i should buy as long as i'm switching like the rotors? those little parts that you always get sent back to the store to get lol dont want to miss anything

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:22 pm
by occasional demons
If the rotor/brake pad kit doesn't include caliper bolts/slides, You may want to freshen those up too. Maybe a plumber's brush to clean out the caliper holes where the rubber bellows around the slides fits. Sometimes the bores rust, and squeeze the rubber against the slides, making removal/install difficult.

Most times, if the rust is really bad, I just replace the caliper whether it works well or not. It is just going to lead to the caliper body sticking anyways. Which can keep one pad dragging slightly against the rotor.

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:26 pm
by neongirl87
i meant like the sway bar links or bushings? idk last time i did this kind of job on the car (installing shocks/springs/rotors/pads) i had to go back and order bushings or links? they were these small little parts, i hate to delay the process of getting my car back to order something so small

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:59 pm
by sidepipe87
check the from horizontal lower control arm bushings they tend to fail. People like to put Prothane urethane ones in or the new MOOG problem solvers.

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 12:33 am
by neongirl87
should i buy these? and if so, how many do i need? 4?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,7428
MOOG Part # ES3173RL More Info {#4762861, 4762861AA} Problem Solver

or are these it? if so how many do i need?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,7580


what about camber bolts? which ones? and how many?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... type,13512


i'm also going to purchase a trans filter,
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,8600

WIX Part # 58934 More Info {#FT1122}

should refill the oil? how many bottles do i need?

i'm trying to learn and do some research myself, sorry for bugging guys =( parts have been arriving already, pics coming soon!!!

any advice or answers to my questions are greatly appreciated!!! You guys rock!!!

also, the car vibrates real bad, when i stop at red lights, i was told that motor mounts would help, any idea where i can get those? i cant seem to find them on rockauto

=) thanks guys

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 12:38 am
by Midnight_Rider
neongirl87 wrote:i'm trying to learn and do some research myself, sorry for bugging guys =( parts have been arriving already, pics coming soon!!!
Your questions have been well thought-out so no worries. :thumbup:

May I suggest that you ask one of the mods to split up this thread so you can have a Progress Log? :sign7:

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 12:46 am
by neongirl87
but i've been getting most of my questions answered here =( trying to get these parts ordered asap


:Cry1: :Cry1: :Cry1: :Cry1: :Cry1: :Cry1:

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 1:05 am
by Midnight_Rider
neongirl87 wrote:but i've been getting most of my questions answered here =( trying to get these parts ordered asap


:Cry1: :Cry1: :Cry1: :Cry1: :Cry1: :Cry1:
Everyone would find your questions on a Progress Log thread, trust me. :D

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:49 am
by occasional demons
Gramps is right, you need to begin asking in the topic specific sections, and or start a PL. This is mainly for introducing yourself.

If you start a PL you can either copy and paste you questions there, or each one in the appropriate section.

You may get a faster response in each section tho, because not everyone will read all the PL's.

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 11:26 am
by Midnight_Rider
^^He said it better than I did. :thumbup:

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 2:46 pm
by neongirl87
ok guys =) i'll start a progress log, but could yall just answer post #48 pleaseeeeeeeeeeee! lol i'll post pics tomorrow, in my own progress thread

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:25 pm
by nerox
sidepipe87 wrote:As for spark plugs... go with the cheapy Champion Coppers. I don't know the part number off hand but they're like $2 each and the car likes them.
they are RC9YC

Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 12:13 pm
by neongirl87
guyssssss!!!! pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee! =((((((

lol help with post # 48

:D :D :D :D

Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 12:52 pm
by nerox
neongirl87 wrote:should i buy these? and if so, how many do i need? 4?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,7428
MOOG Part # ES3173RL More Info {#4762861, 4762861AA} Problem Solver
You would need 2 outer track rod ends, one left and one right, none on the rear because the rear don't steer
neongirl87 wrote: or are these it? if so how many do i need?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,7580
these are the anti-roll bar droplinks, so you'd need 2 of these for the front and 2 (different ones) for the rear

Sorry cant help with the camber bolts or trans oil & filter.

There are 2 engine mounts, one on the timing belt side and one on the gearbox, there are also 2 torque struts

upper

Image

and lower

Image

they sell these at RockAuto undernames like Anchor and DEA ... but my advice is stay away ... these are junk, buy the mopar ones, they are worth 5x the price


***please also note terminology may differ between UK and US members***

Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 12:53 pm
by sidepipe87
neongirl87 wrote:guyssssss!!!! pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee! =((((((

lol help with post # 48

:D :D :D :D
Patience, young Padawan.

No, none of those are what I was referring to. Just look up K200797 on Rock Auto. $20 each, 2 needed. These are a new better style LCA bushing/bearing.

Read more about it here: MOOG Problem Solver LCA Bushing

Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 1:28 pm
by neongirl87
thanks guys!!! sorry I know i'm bugging but the car is currently not running, and I'm getting the car towed to the mechanic next wednesday, and i would like to have all the parts ready and be driving in less than 2 weeks hopefully

Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:42 pm
by neongirl87
with my playboy blanket hehe =)

Image