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So, I did my SRT swap and my car won't start. At the starter relay, I ran a jumper wire from the ignition switch to the starter and the engine turns over. With the relay in all I hear is a single click from the relay when I turn the key.
*The fuel pumps turns on.
*I had my pcm flashed at the dealership so all is good there.
*I tried another pcm and it still does the same thing.
*Tested clutch safety switch per FSM.
*Brand new and tested battery.
*Tried unplugging the SKIM.
*Only throwing codes 499, 1190, and 0038. And don't have the corresponding sensors.
Can anyone please help? I have been without a car for too long. I am lost as to what could be cause it to only click and nothing more.

Have you checked ALL your fuses? Does the cluster reset itself when you put the key in every time?

Yes all fuses and relays test fine. And the cluster doesn't reset.

If it's flashing FUSE, then you probably have some loose wiring somewhere. Happened on my car, wasn't with the started, but with the turn signals, radio, and that kind of stuff. Turned out there were just some loose wires by the kick panel. See if you can trace the wires from the starter to see if they are okay. I'm not an expert by any means, I'm just guessing.

Ok, so I fixed the fuse in the cluster. The interior lights run through different connectors on different years.

But the car still won't start eh.

Anyone have any ideas?

Check to see if the ASD relay is engaging. Nevermind fuel pump works.
Did you get the starter to work with out jumping? If the starter relay is clicking, check for voltage at the signal wire on the starter solenoid. maybe the wires are bad from the relay to the solenoid.

I took out the relay and ran the jumper wire from and to the relay pins so it is using all the same wires as if the relay was in.

Hmm.. did you try swapping it for the horn relay? It would seem if the terminals were jumped at the relay socket and it engaged the starter then the relay itself is bad. Or since it grounds thruogh the PCM, the PCM is just letting it engage long enough to make a click and de-energizing the coil.





Try putting a thin wire into pin 28 and grounding it so the PCM would have no way to disconnect ground. Something like 24 gauge phone wire will work, as the relay coil doesn't need much. You don't want to damage the socket either. Or just wrap it around the relay pin. Then see if it cranks. If it does then you know something is not right with the PCM, or SKIM programming.
Other than that I'm at a loss.

Ok so I did that and the lights dim as if it wants to start. The fuse will sometimes blow when doing this. I swapped out pcms and it still will not start. Anybody?

Possibly the starter solenoid has an internal short?

But why would it crank fine when I jump the connection instead of a relay? I just now took out both the bay and engine harnesses to check them from end to end.

I wasn't sure if you had retried it, or if it was just luck the first time.
I also would go through the harness at this point.
Edit: If you haven't already, pull apart the PDC and check for any foreign objects inside that may cause a short.

Ok, so here's what I found out. The PCM and starter wires were swapped in the PDC., so I swapped them back. Tried to start the car nothing. Manually grounded the PCM wire, engine turns over. Now before I swapped the wires, when you turned the ignition 12volts would go to the PCM rather than the starter. Would that kill the PCM?

Ok, so I got the car to crank but it doesn't start. I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel rail and no fuel whether attempting to start or not. I think I can hear the fuel pump turn on for a sec or two. I do get spark though. What should I check?