Swap Done.. wont start

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Fri May 01, 2009 7:18 pm

so just finished up the swap. it cranks over but doesnt sound like its getting fuel.

Fuel pump is running. Relay clicks over. Pulled off fuel line there is gas.

Plugs dont smell like gas at all.

I hooked up a test light to the injectors and when cranking there is power going to the Injectors.

NO CEL related to fuel

blueneo03 · Post by **blueneo03** » Fri May 01, 2009 7:21 pm

battery? lol

n20sxt · Post by **n20sxt** » Fri May 01, 2009 8:05 pm

blueneo03 wrote:battery? lol

if its turning over then the battery should be ok

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri May 01, 2009 8:09 pm

The ASD relay powers all the injectors. The PCM provides the ground path for each one. For some reason the PCM may not be switching them.
What codes are you getting? Since you said none related to fuel.

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Fri May 01, 2009 8:18 pm

secondary o2 sensor Removed.. Wideband installed there.

p0443 Evap Purge Valve C
P0113 IAT sensor #1.. Plug is broken
P1190 Controlled Fuel & Air Metering
P0243 Turbo/SUP Wastegate Solenoid A
P0033 Turbo/SUP Wastgate Control Circuit
P0038 H02S Bank 1 Sens 2 Heater Circuit

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri May 01, 2009 8:52 pm

P1190-TIP SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH

Throttle input postion sensor?

P0113-INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR HIGH

IDK if throttle postion signal is critical to starting. Very possible if it is high, it is thinking WOT, and may be in flood clear mode. It shuts off the injectors to prevent further flooding to attempt to clear the combustion chambers.

This is a complete SWAG tho. IAT won't prevent it from starting, tho you may/may not get a battery light once you do get it started.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Fri May 01, 2009 8:59 pm

Yesah. Unplug the TPS and see if it'll start. It wont be happy about it, but it should start. Or just check TPS voltage.

Nutmeg · Post by **Nutmeg** » Sat May 02, 2009 3:05 pm

The IAT shouldn't effect it.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Sat May 02, 2009 4:52 pm

Is there a red light on in the upper right hand corner of the dash? If this light stays on you have a SKIM problem, which would prevent the car from running for any length of time and then ultimately not starting.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat May 02, 2009 5:02 pm

Also, I forgot to ask, did you check for spark?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Sun May 03, 2009 10:56 am

Everfast wrote:secondary o2 sensor Removed.. Wideband installed there.

p0443 Evap Purge Valve C
P0113 IAT sensor #1.. Plug is broken
P1190 Controlled Fuel & Air Metering
P0243 Turbo/SUP Wastegate Solenoid A
P0033 Turbo/SUP Wastgate Control Circuit
P0038 H02S Bank 1 Sens 2 Heater Circuit

Downstream O2 monitors cat efficiency - engine will still run
P0443 - common on srt swaps - engine will still run
P0113 - you answered this one already - engine will still run
P0243/P0033 - wastegate solenoids hooked up? - engine will still run
P0038 - because you have the downstream O2 removed - engine will still run
Most SRT's were Sentry equiped, are you using the SRT pcm in your car?

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Sun May 03, 2009 2:46 pm

Im using a SRT Stage 1 ECU.. the dealer said the programming is fine..

I do have spark. fresh set of plugs and wires. all 4 do spark

Its definately a fuel issue. the injectors do not seem to open at all.

I probed the injector clips and all 4 light up the test light. SO i thought it was a grounding issue so i manually grounded all the injectors and they still do not open. Ive never heard of 4 bad injectors

eVilcreations · Post by **eVilcreations** » Mon May 04, 2009 6:37 am

I'm gonna agree with occasional demons on this one and go with a PCM problem more than likely....

If there is power to each injector.....the PCM is probably not providing the ground signal in sequence to fire the injectors....

Have you tried checking to see if the injectors spray fuel or not? Into something of course, not just into the air....

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Mon May 04, 2009 11:38 am

is it a semi common problem for ECU's to go bad.. the car cranks over but just will not start.

and i do not see why the ECU plugs will not go into the right color for the ECU

ECU-------------------Harness Color
Black----------------- Black and White both fit
White---------------- Orange Fits but white doesnt
Orange-------------- Black Fits But Orange Doesnt
Green---------------- EMPTY

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Mon May 04, 2009 12:26 pm

ok tried your idea's now the car wont even attempt to start. it just does a rapid Click click click click.. like if the starter or battery were dead.

no red light on in the dash.

when i try to start the gauges all come up to register. then when i turn the key and it does the rapid clicking the gauges all loose power and go down.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Mon May 04, 2009 12:43 pm

blueneo03 wrote:battery? lol

this comes to mind now...

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Mon May 04, 2009 1:07 pm

battery is good.. brand new yellow top optima. everything powers up. everything is grounded to the chassis.

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Mon May 04, 2009 2:22 pm

where are all the grounds for the engine. i got the front 2 that go onto the radiator support. then the one ground that goes up by the passanger motor mount. those are the only 3 grounds that i see.

superdan · Post by **superdan** » Mon May 04, 2009 4:27 pm

alternator?

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Mon May 04, 2009 4:50 pm

its soooo close to starting i got spark i got fuel. moved the battery back up front and hooked it up. start seems stronger now. but just doesnt wanna turn over all the way.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Mon May 04, 2009 5:45 pm

Unplug the cam sensor, that's what I always do when there is no spark. Just give it a shot, it'll take 3 seconds.

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Mon May 04, 2009 5:54 pm

nope the cam sensor trick did not work for it.

im 99% sure it is a grounding issue. im sure i have all the grounds but i might be missing some.

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:23 pm

just ran the scanner again got the following codes.. for some reason some codes registered twice

p0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0038 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0038 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:51 pm

Looks like you have a lot of codes to take care of. I'd start with things like the camshaft and throttle position sensor.

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:11 pm

ok checked over everything.. the damn ECU pins got a lil bent i straightened them out..

i just have the 2 IAT and the Rear o2 sensor codes now.. all other codes are cleared.

eVilcreations · Post by **eVilcreations** » Tue May 05, 2009 12:30 am

Everfast wrote:ok checked over everything.. the damn ECU pins got a lil bent i straightened them out..

i just have the 2 IAT and the Rear o2 sensor codes now.. all other codes are cleared.

Depending on how bent they got.....that could end up causing you problems in the long run.

It is possible that if they pins were bent far enough that they cracked on the back side of the weather seal, and will lose their connection over time/vibration......

Just an FYI....

Josh

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Tue May 05, 2009 10:06 am

they were not bent that bad.

OK so i got compression... fuel... and spark.. still stumped

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue May 05, 2009 12:15 pm

it shouldn't be cam timing off, you would get a CEL for that. And it would at least backfire, either in the IM or exhaust. Usually when you have all 3, something happens.

Everfast · Post by **Everfast** » Tue May 05, 2009 1:12 pm

well it starts.. runs like complete shit so now time to figure it out the rest

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Tue May 05, 2009 1:31 pm

will have to keep this one in mind for the record of least likely to figure out WTF was going wrong.