SRT-4 swap starts and then dies....help?
SRT-4 swap starts and then dies....help?
Alright....I'm doing a SRT-4 swap into my 2000 Neon. 2000 dash harness but everything else is SRT-4. I turn the key and the car starts fine but will die almost immediately. If I try again it will start and idle for a couple seconds just fine and then go rough and die. If I watch my wideband I can watch it go leaner and leaner until it dies.
Here's what I have done so far:
-TPS and IAC rewire
-swapped out coil
-replaced spark plugs
-swapped out plug wires
-swapped fuel injectors
-swapped fuel pressure regulators
-swapped fuel pumps
-swapped iat sensor
-swapped map/tip sensors
-swapped cam sensor
-replaced alternator
-checked grounds
-checked fuses and relays (including ASD relay/fuse)
-swapped pcm/skim/key with known good
-swapped upstream o2 sensor
I'm at a loss currently. I'm not throwing any codes most of the time. If anything I get P0073 Ambient Temp High....I have the AGP sensor in my hardpipe currently but I'm under the impression that would not cause my car to shut off. Car is just a basic stage 2 setup with a cold side pipe, 3" downpipe, and an aftermarket bov.
FYI....revving the car will keep it running for a little bit but after a couple revs it will respond erratically and rpms will not correspond to my pedal pushing.
Someone suggested swapping the crank sensor and the temp sensor in the hardpipe but I figure it should be throwing a code if the crank sensor was bad. From what I have read and researched - the only difference between the 2000 dash harness and the 03-05 dash harness is the turn signal wire. Could the fact that I have an automatic 2000 harness throw things off? (I have a srt4 dash harness if necessary)
Here's what I have done so far:
-TPS and IAC rewire
-swapped out coil
-replaced spark plugs
-swapped out plug wires
-swapped fuel injectors
-swapped fuel pressure regulators
-swapped fuel pumps
-swapped iat sensor
-swapped map/tip sensors
-swapped cam sensor
-replaced alternator
-checked grounds
-checked fuses and relays (including ASD relay/fuse)
-swapped pcm/skim/key with known good
-swapped upstream o2 sensor
I'm at a loss currently. I'm not throwing any codes most of the time. If anything I get P0073 Ambient Temp High....I have the AGP sensor in my hardpipe currently but I'm under the impression that would not cause my car to shut off. Car is just a basic stage 2 setup with a cold side pipe, 3" downpipe, and an aftermarket bov.
FYI....revving the car will keep it running for a little bit but after a couple revs it will respond erratically and rpms will not correspond to my pedal pushing.
Someone suggested swapping the crank sensor and the temp sensor in the hardpipe but I figure it should be throwing a code if the crank sensor was bad. From what I have read and researched - the only difference between the 2000 dash harness and the 03-05 dash harness is the turn signal wire. Could the fact that I have an automatic 2000 harness throw things off? (I have a srt4 dash harness if necessary)
I thought that as well but I read in the SRT-4 engine swap sticky:
"00 is the hardest since that year it was a cable clutch where 01+ models which includes the SRT is hydro. In 00 you'll have to modify the firewall to fit the clutch master cylinder.
00-02... rumor has it that 03+ the core supports are the same to allow for the intercooler to mount up... not sure if it's true though Confused in 00-02 you must cut the core support and make holes to mount the intercooler. you must also move one pin on the main wiring harness that comes though the firewall that connects to the dash and body harness. That wire is for the front turn signal as they moved it one pin over in 03+ models."
I assumed that the harness would work fine....
"00 is the hardest since that year it was a cable clutch where 01+ models which includes the SRT is hydro. In 00 you'll have to modify the firewall to fit the clutch master cylinder.
00-02... rumor has it that 03+ the core supports are the same to allow for the intercooler to mount up... not sure if it's true though Confused in 00-02 you must cut the core support and make holes to mount the intercooler. you must also move one pin on the main wiring harness that comes though the firewall that connects to the dash and body harness. That wire is for the front turn signal as they moved it one pin over in 03+ models."
I assumed that the harness would work fine....
- sidepipe87
- 2009 Silver Contributor
- Posts: 9516
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 5:35 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
- Contact:
Did you use the SKIM module from the SRT-4 that is matched to the PCM? If not you need to either swap that out, or get your SKIM 4 digit pin flashed into your PCM to make them match. The SKIM is your issue here. Hence the start and stall.
PM me for your 00+ PCM SKIM/VIN flashing needs. Neon PCMs Plus
Yes I did. I also swapped in a stock srt PCM with matching skim and key and it did the same thing. I'm not getting a code for a skim issue and if it was a true skim issue I wouldn't be able to keep the car running by revving it.
Perhaps the 2000 dash wiring is different for the skim stuff and its not liking it?
Perhaps the 2000 dash wiring is different for the skim stuff and its not liking it?
- sidepipe87
- 2009 Silver Contributor
- Posts: 9516
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 5:35 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
- Contact:
Didn't realize revving it would keep it running. Did you change the fuel pump?
PM me for your 00+ PCM SKIM/VIN flashing needs. Neon PCMs Plus
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- Junior Admin
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- Location: Ashland Ohio
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? if the FPR's were not new, I wouldn't trust them. They tend to take a shit after sitting a while if they were previously used.
I would hook up a gauge, and see what the fuel pressure is actually doing. It sure seems to match the symptoms of running out of fuel.
You should get a lean code tho, but until you can confirm the actual FP, it might be dying before it can set a code. And no, the crank sensor will rarely set a code, but usually it will just plain outright quit running. If you have a steady tach signal, the crank sensor is good.
I would hook up a gauge, and see what the fuel pressure is actually doing. It sure seems to match the symptoms of running out of fuel.
You should get a lean code tho, but until you can confirm the actual FP, it might be dying before it can set a code. And no, the crank sensor will rarely set a code, but usually it will just plain outright quit running. If you have a steady tach signal, the crank sensor is good.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
i saw you rewired the iac but didnt swap it out with a known good one, might want to try that.
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
-
- Junior Admin
- Posts: 20306
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: Ashland Ohio
IAC should have no impact while revving.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
ah didnt catch the reving part at the bottom. NVM on the IAC then.
i'd check your timing, my car did the same exact thing pretty much when the cam gear adj came loose.
i'd check your timing, my car did the same exact thing pretty much when the cam gear adj came loose.
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
So...while going to check the crank sensor I noticed the clutch slave cylinder didn't feel solid so I pulled it out and swapped it with a spare I had laying around. I probably didn't bleed it enough but tried starting it anyways. Car runs for a lot longer than before...still eventually dies. If I put it in 1st and keep the clutch down the mph will actuate while the car stumbles and eventually dies. It honestly feels like a car feels when you stall it...thoughts?
So I pulled everything out just to find the car had a similar spacer already. I put everything back and bled the clutch slave once and adjusted the piece that attaches to the pedals. Car runs longer now but still stalls out eventually. Super hard or impossible to put in gear while its running which leads me to believe its still some kind of clutch engagement issue.
Tomorrow I'll probably try bleeding the slave like 20 times and max out the adjustment on the pedal and see what happens
Tomorrow I'll probably try bleeding the slave like 20 times and max out the adjustment on the pedal and see what happens
Bad ground causing feedback?
2004 Dodge Neon SRT4 (New beast)
Owner of B&P Repair https://www.facebook.com/pages/B-and-P- ... 9500229160
Owner of B&P Repair https://www.facebook.com/pages/B-and-P- ... 9500229160
- sidepipe87
- 2009 Silver Contributor
- Posts: 9516
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 5:35 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
- Contact:
ask speed127 you need to use SRT-4 pedals on an SRT swap.
PM me for your 00+ PCM SKIM/VIN flashing needs. Neon PCMs Plus
So...after swapping the ignition switch, multifunction switch, dash harness, and messing with the headlights I found that one of the grounds out of the 4 by the driver headlight was a little frayed and loose in the metal connector. Redid that and now the car runs gloriously. I had a feeling it was a ground but I never checked the actual wires...just made sure they were all there. Now I know...