2.4 swap

mfitch · Post by **mfitch** » Tue May 27, 2014 11:38 am

Ok guys finishing up my 2.4 rebuild and getting ready to swap it into my 2000 neon. Motor is out of an 01 pt cruiser. no 90 1st gen DOHC intake, using stock sensors except for cam sensor. My question is this: if using the stock ECM from my 2000, do I have to rotate the cam magnet 90degress, or leave it alone? Stock 2.4 cams :

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue May 27, 2014 2:56 pm

Using the 2.4 cams, you may not need to rotate it 90º. I believe that is only if you use the 2.0 cams. You may still need to swap the injector wiring tho.

mfitch · Post by **mfitch** » Tue May 27, 2014 4:43 pm

perfect thats exactly what I was thinking, just wanted to make sure. By rewiring the injectors, I assume you mean repinning at the ECU? Is this the same as the 1st gen neons?

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat May 31, 2014 12:34 pm

mfitch wrote: By rewiring the injectors, I assume you mean repinning at the ECU? Is this the same as the 1st gen neons?

You can 're-pin' either at the ECU, or by changing the injector harness.
(Re-pinning at the ECU, would be 'cleaner'.)

I spoke with a gentleman who did a 2.4 swap into a 2000 Neon - Who told me that he had to 'move over' the injector sequence, over to the next cylinder in line - If I Recall Correctly.

- Nick

mfitch · Post by **mfitch** » Sat May 31, 2014 10:28 pm

you wouldnt happen to have his user name? i have a couple more questions...like is it worth it to upgrade to the 2.0 cams since i dont plan in turboing any time soon?

gtxtreme19 · Post by **gtxtreme19** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 1:00 am

Yes the 2.0 cams are worth it if you can get them cheap. Yes you can re-pin at the ecu or move the plugs, but if you go that route you'll have to extend the wires. Its similar to a 1st gen but the pins are different. In 2000 the fuel pump or injectors may need swapped. I've heard 00 still used the lower psi fuel pump and my 2.4 swap would not run with the stock pump and injectors, I ended up swapping in 24# injectors instead of changing the fuel pump

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 1:33 pm

mfitch wrote:i have a couple more questions...like is it worth it to upgrade to the 2.0 cams since i dont plan in turboing any time soon?

gtxtreme19 wrote:Yes the 2.0 cams are worth it if you can get them cheap. Yes you can re-pin at the ecu or move the plugs, but if you go that route you'll have to extend the wires. Its similar to a 1st gen but the pins are different.

Correct !!

Try searching a local 'U-Pull-It' junkyard for some DOHC cams; or try shopping the For Sale board, both here, and on Neons.Org.

If this were my car, I'd probably just try splicing / extending the wires on the injector harness, and moving the injectors 1 cylinder over, accordingly - Partly because it is easier to 'visualize'.
Done 'properly' [read: solder, and shrink wrap], it would work fine.

While you are at it - Swap to the 2001-2005 model year 58PSI Fuel Pressure Regulator.
(2000 model year used the 49 PSI fuel regulator, which was a 'carryover' from the 1st gen Neons.)
With the 58PSI regulator, you probably won't need to upgrade injectors.

- Nick

mfitch · Post by **mfitch** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:35 pm

i actually was able to find a few dohc neons which i pulled the entire rail and harness assembly. checked the part numbers vs what this sight has and they are rated for 22lbs. would that be good enough. also since i dont plan on turboing anytime in the future then i take it the 2.0 cams are the way to go and ill swing by my pick n pull this weekend...kinda sucks since i have the entire motor together already...anyone have and helpful tricks to get the rings to seat before i install it...wanna make sure i have everything correct since this will be my dd for the foreseeable future.

also i believe i already have the 58 psi regulator. i had to do some diagnostics a while ago and when i did the fuel pressure check it read 55 lbs steadily..thoughts?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:45 pm

Overall my 2.4 swap seems happier with the 2.0/2.4 DOHC injectors and the 58 psi regulator. I didn't get any codes with the 49 psi unit, but power did seem to lack just a bit compared to the 58 psi feeding them.

I did get a lean code when the heater hose blew, and temps got a bit on the warm side. But other than that extreme, there wasn't anything else but a bit less power with the 49 psi regulator.

Fuel mileage seemed to be the same, so there wasn't much benefit to 49 psi, other than a cheaper replacement if you ever needed a new one.

While it sucks the 58 psi FPR is going to cost $100 or more, IMHO, it is the better choice. Unless you decide to go a different route than stock for pressure control.

mfitch · Post by **mfitch** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:10 pm

ok guys....motor is in but will not start. cranks fine and tries to start but only get intermittent fires...ie cylinder ignites...need help fast since this my daily driver...have read a few other posts that say with a 2000 you dont have to repin the ecu for the injectors just the coil since it is the same firing order...any help would be appreciated

gtxtreme19 · Post by **gtxtreme19** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 9:35 pm

Repin the injectors not the coil. I didn't have to mess with the coil on my 00

mfitch · Post by **mfitch** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:37 pm

Did you have to rotate the cam magnet or upgrade the fuel pressure reg?

gtxtreme19 · Post by **gtxtreme19** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:43 pm

Which cams? Is it your stock regulator? The 00 is only I think 48 psi and will not run a 2.4. You need to swap for a 02+ which is I think 58 psi or swap in some 21# injectors

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:53 pm

If the PCM is not happy with the cam magnet location, you should get a cam crank sync code. The PCM will think the cam timing is off.

Even with the lower 49 psi fuel pressure, it should still idle. Mine will still run with the relay pulled even when the FP is at less than 20 psi.

I swapped pins on the coil on my '99. You can try it, or just swap the plug wires from 1 & 4 to 2 & 3 and vice versa for a quick test. Basically swapping the coils to the plugs vs the wires from the coils to the PCM. The plug wires are the easiest route, to at least try. If you want you can swap them back and repin the connector later if it runs.

The crank reluctor wheel is 180º out from the 1995 to 2002 2.0, that is why the injectors and coil need swapped around.

Since the 2.4 cams are in sync with the 2.4, the magnet shouldn't need moved with the 2.4 intake cam, only if using the 2.0 intake cam. FWIW, the exhaust cams can be swapped without any mods.

gtxtreme19 · Post by **gtxtreme19** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:41 pm

That is bizarre, my 00 would not fire at all with the stock regulator and injectors. As soon as I switched to 24# it fired right up (rich as hell though). I ended up having to switch my coil wires back to stock as well I swapped them during the swap

mfitch · Post by **mfitch** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 11:35 pm

think i got it.....one of the grounds from the block to the body broke off....figutes it was so.ething stupid. not sure why it cranked with it broke but at keast i figured it outthanks for the help one last question...what the hell is the little relay looking thing that bolt to back of head on top....has one wire looks like it is colored to fuel i jectors...ie green with orange stripe

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 8:07 am

mfitch wrote: one last question...what the hell is the little relay looking thing that bolt to back of head on top....has one wire looks like it is colored to fuel i jectors...ie green with orange stripe

I believe that is a Radio Interference Suppressor.

- Nick

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:46 pm

Yep a noise suppressor. Basically a capacitor to absorb the electrical noise of the injectors and coils switching on/off.

If you ever have an ASD fuse blow, and can't find the source, try unplugging the capacitor. They do short to ground when they fail, and will shut you down.

Those little black boxes last time I looked were $18 from Mopar. The car functions just fine without it. Or you could get a .47 microfarad cap and wire it in... for probably less than a dollar from Radio Shack.