SRT-4 Engine Swap

nate-00neon · Post by **nate-00neon** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:39 pm

viewtopic.php?t=46970&highlight=

this might help you out...my swap

thump3r · Post by **thump3r** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:47 pm

thanks it does!

ill be able to get what i need tomorrow from work.

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 6:53 pm

Adam K. wrote:Also if not mentioned before you will need the SRT-4 Antilock Brake System, both the Hydraulic Control Unit and Antilock Brake Module (Basically the Sliver block the brake lines go into and the black block the electrical connector goes into.) If I am correct if you have a 2003+ you can keep your stock stuff. The Booster and Master cylinder should be fine.

Just to confirm... I'm swapping an '04 SRT motor/trans into my '04 R/T: I will be able to use the clutch master cylinder and booster from my R/T and not need the SRT parts, right?

Adam K. wrote:As Said before the SRT-4 Fuel line will also be needed. Part number (5102979AA)

I believe this was stated later that you do not need the SRT fuel line, correct?

Also, how badly do I need an SRT or aftermarket FPR? I have a walbro 255 and FP rewire kit installed... will that be enough or does the FPR still kill me?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:24 pm

NOS2006 wrote:
Adam K. wrote:Also if not mentioned before you will need the SRT-4 Antilock Brake System, both the Hydraulic Control Unit and Antilock Brake Module (Basically the Sliver block the brake lines go into and the black block the electrical connector goes into.) If I am correct if you have a 2003+ you can keep your stock stuff. The Booster and Master cylinder should be fine.
Just to confirm... I'm swapping an '04 SRT motor/trans into my '04 R/T: I will be able to use the clutch master cylinder and booster from my R/T and not need the SRT parts, right? I think you are talking about 2 different parts there. The clutch master cylinder is the same, so you can use that. The slave cylinder is different though. You will need a SRT one. The booster is part of the braking system. The booster does not need to be changed, nor does the brake M/C, but should you ever upgrade to a BBK, you will need the SRT M/C. For stock brakes it is fine.

Adam K. wrote:As Said before the SRT-4 Fuel line will also be needed. Part number (5102979AA)
I believe this was stated later that you do not need the SRT fuel line, correct? You don't need it, but you will have to bend your R/T line so it can work.

Also, how badly do I need an SRT or aftermarket FPR? I have a walbro 255 and FP rewire kit installed... will that be enough or does the FPR still kill me? I'm not 100% sure on this one, but I believe that you need the SRT regulator because the non-SRT does not allow enough fuel to be delivered under full boost. And that would be bad.

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:35 pm

Alright, thank you very much for these answers!

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:11 pm

No prob

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:47 pm

I am nearly done with my swap ('04 SRT-4 drivetrain into an '04 manual R/T).. just have a couple of electrical questions (posted with pictures)...

This wire is hanging free from my passenger side. It isn't part of the engine harness; it's on the same bundle of wires that come from the fuel pump, but I'm not sure exactly where this connector comes from or where it connects to. It's got four prongs, and the wires are black, blue, pink, and bright green...

This copper ground coming off of the starter.. it's all corroded and partially falling apart anyway, so should I just cut it, or do I really need to ground it somewhere?

The plug on the side of the transmission (under the battery tray), I'm not really sure what it's for, but the connector is not the same on my SRT engine harness as it is on the transmission. Both the male and female ends of the connector are the two-prong, but they don't connect properly. Help?

I bought an SRT radiator fan setup, and since it has two fans, the connector for the fan has four prongs. My stock harness only has two prongs. What should I do here?

Lastly, there is a large connector on the SRT harness that goes up to the top of the underside of the tray under where the windshield wipers are. However, my stock R/T has two connectors instead of the one large one. So, I'm re-pinning the SRT connector with the wires from the two smaller connectors. However, I'm not sure where a few of the wires go... There are four extra wires coming from the body, and two extra wires coming from the SRT connector that do not match, and all of these wires are small (around 18 gauge)...

The colors of the wires from the body harness are black w/ red stripe, brown w/ white stripe, orange w/ black stripe, and purple w/ yellow stripe.

The colors of the wires from the SRT engine harness connector are blue w/ white stripe and brown.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 10:31 am

This is the reason for swapping all of the harnesses. The front body harness will have all the proper connections for (I think) most of your questions. As a note, the front body harness has lighting, fan control, ABS, and some driveline connectors.

As far as that ground strap goes, yes, you need it. You can replace it with a nice 8 or 10 gauge wire if you like, but make sure something is there.

And last, that 4 pin connector. Could it be for your alt?

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 12:56 am

That four pin connector was for the cruise control, and I ran a new 10 gauge wire for that ground.

I didn't swap the body harness or front harness because I was told from multiple sources that the ONLY different harness on '03-05s are the same except the engine harness...

Any idea what I can do for the pinout to the body harness and the radiator fans?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:51 am

You will have to run the extra two wires for the fan yourself. If your car was an automatic you wouldn't have this problem, but since 2.0 MTX use a single fan, this is why you are where you are.

nasty_neon01 · Post by **nasty_neon01** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:31 pm

i just got done installing my dash harness and the connector for the keyless entry is different then whats in my 01 r/t, how should i go about getting this hooked up...

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat May 01, 2010 10:41 am

They shouldn't be. What is different between them?

This is the connector pin-out for both the R/T and the SRT. The only difference is cavity #9, but they do the same thing. As far as I can tell the connector did not change over the years.

REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY MODULE - BLACK 26 WAY
CAV..CIRCUIT.............FUNCTION
1.......L4 16VT/WT.......DIMMER SWITCH LOW BEAM OUTPUT
2.......L7 20BK/YL........HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
3.......F35 16RD...........FUSED B(+)
4.......P33 18OR/BK.....DOOR LOCK RELAY OUTPUT
5.......P34 18PK/BK......DRIVER DOOR UNLOCK RELAY OUTPUT
6.......P36 18PK/VT......DOOR UNLOCK RELAY OUTPUT
7.......M9 20DB/OR......PASSENGER DOOR AJAR/RKE SENSE
8.......Z2 22BK/LG.......GROUND
9.......F9 20RD/BK.......FUSED B(+) 01 R/T
9.......M1 18PK............FUSED B(+) 04 SRT
10.....P97 20LG..........LEFT DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX
11.....P96 20LG/BK.....RIGHT DOOR LOCK SWITCH MUX
12.....Z1 20BK.............GROUND
13 - -
14.....Q33 18BR/LB......DECKLID RELEASE RELAY CONTROL
15 - -
16.....Q2 16LG/BK........DECKLID RELEASE RELAY OUTPUT
17.....G69 20BK/OR......VTSS INDICATOR DRIVER
18.....X3 22BK/RD........HORN RELAY CONTROL
19.....D25 20VT/YL.......PCI BUS
20 - -
21 - -
22.....G5 20DB/WT.......FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START)
23.....G70 20BR/TN......HOOD AJAR SWITCH SENSE
24.....G71 20VT/YL.......DECKLID SECURITY SWITCH SENSE
25.....G75 18TN............LEFT FRONT DOOR AJAR SWITCH SENSE
26 - -

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Sat May 01, 2010 6:42 pm

Car doesn't start, it just clicks rapidly. I had the starter checked, and it passed the test. After trying to start (for literally only a few seconds), the negative battery wires all get warm.

I replaced the ground from the battery to the body and also from the starter to the body both with 10 gauge wires. Right now there is positive lead from the starter to the battery, a clip (ground?) on the starter, and three wires going on the starter's negative side.. ground to body, wire from battery, and wire from harness.

I have the following grounds: battery to frame, starter to frame, rear of engine to frame.

Why won't my car start?!

nasty_neon01 · Post by **nasty_neon01** » Sat May 01, 2010 10:29 pm

ty, ur right the keyless entry module does fit fine. but now im stuck on a connector that doesnt fit where its partner connected does fit.. i have a pic, the black connector has 2 wires where the grey plug has 6 wires??? why doesnt this match?

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3208879/6

this link has the pics of the connectors

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Sat May 08, 2010 6:14 pm

Alright, so I went to turn the key... Car doesn't start, it just clicks rapidly. I had the starter checked, and it passed the test. After trying to start (for literally only a few seconds), the negative battery wires all get warm.

I replaced the ground from the battery to the body and also from the starter to the body both with 10 gauge wires. Right now there is positive lead from the starter to the battery, a clip (ground?) on the starter, and three wires going on the starter's negative side.. ground to body, wire from battery, and wire from harness.

I have the following grounds: battery to frame, starter to frame, rear of engine to frame.

Why won't my car start? I was told I don't have enough grounds on SRTforums, and that's the only thing they said I could have wrong. Suggestions?

Also, they say I'll overheat if I'm running only the R/T single fan instead of dual fans temporarily until I get a new harness, even if I don't run the car hard at all. Is this true?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat May 08, 2010 9:13 pm

Did they test the starter by using the solenoid wire to engage it, or just go directly to the post for the motor. It sounds like the hold in coil is bad.

The solenoid uses two coils: one to pull it into the flywheel, and the other holds it there, once the starter motor is cranking.

If the hold in is not good, it will slap back and forth. Or the cable to the starter is bad, thus the heat.

If the engine was locked for whatever reason, it would just engage the flywheel and not turn, and prolly get all kinds of wiring warm.

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Sun May 09, 2010 3:56 am

I'm not sure which test they did. Whatever Autozone's standard test is... they hooked it up to a voltage source and it engaged and spun. When I have it wired to my car, the starter kicks out/engages, but doesn't spin (this is without the starter actually being installed, it's just in someone's hand when I turn the key).

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Sun May 09, 2010 8:57 pm

This is how I've got the starter wired up, is this correct?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon May 10, 2010 11:27 pm

Replied to your PM...

That is a major malfunction.

This is what I pm'ed. If there are any corrections needed, don't hesitate to point them out. I would assume an SRT starter wires the same as a 2.0

The only thing that should be hooked to the lower terminal ("This goes to ground terminal on starter into engine harness") is the wire going into the starter motor. The alternator/fusible link, and battery positve wire should be connected together at the red shrouded connector "power wire from battery" there should be no grounds hooked to either of those terminals. The only ground strap should be attached to one of the mounting bolts that hold the starter to the bellhousing.

Hope this diagram helps out a little better. You are prolly shorting to ground, with the 10 gauge wire attached to the lower? terminal and frame.

I'm not 100% sure if the one labeled "This goes to ground terminal on starter into engine harness" is the wire to the alternator, or a ground strap from the pic.
That "ground terminal" is the hot terminal for the starter motor. Like I said, the only thing that attaches to that, is the wire going into the motor.

mikedon_2gn · Post by **mikedon_2gn** » Tue May 11, 2010 8:34 pm

It's been a while since I've posted any news on my swap. School and work own me and I've had time here and there to be 90% complete on the swap. Just minor things to do.

I have one question regarding the door harness and one issue with the car starting. I'll start with the door harness since it's a quick question.

I've read that there are issues with a door harness from a 2000 (which is the year of my neon) when plugging into the srt harness? I see that there is a one pin difference between the SRT door harness and the neon harness but when i plug it in, I don't have any issues. Just wondering if I am going to see any issues in the long run.

Now, I have an issue with the car starting at times. The car starts about five or six times in a row but when I try it again for either the sixth or seventh time, it doesn't start. I have to unplug the car battery for about 15 minutes and after I plug it back in, it starts and the process starts over. I'm guessing its a bad PCM since its the same one from the donor car and the donor car was in an accieent. Anyone have similar issues with the car starting?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue May 11, 2010 9:46 pm

For the doors, I believe the '00 uses the old school "pin in the door jam" to turn on the dome light, etc. The '01 up use a switch in the latch mechanism.

Do you mean 6 or 7 times with driving in between, or start, shut off, start, ...? I have no clue either way, but that info might click with someone else.

mikedon_2gn · Post by **mikedon_2gn** » Tue May 11, 2010 11:19 pm

occasional demons wrote:For the doors, I believe the '00 uses the old school "pin in the door jam" to turn on the dome light, etc. The '01 up use a switch in the latch mechanism.

Do you mean 6 or 7 times with driving in between, or start, shut off, start, ...? I have no clue either way, but that info might click with someone else.

Thanks for the info on the door. I guess it wouldn't hurt to swap out the door harnesses since the rest of the car is all SRT. Might as well make to doors too.

You got it right the first time. Drive in between. It's weird. I'm going to find another PCM and have that setup using the SRT vin. Hope that works. If anyone has an idea, please chime in.

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Thu May 13, 2010 9:09 pm

Alright, I got it to turn over now with your help above. Thank you very much for that!

Now I am pulling some codes (P1190, P0243, P1105, P0033, P1187) and the car won't start (isn't getting spark). I am guessing that it's my lack of the three solenoids (Green #2, Blue #3 and Red #1) in the diagram below is why it won't start:

Here is how I ran my vacuum lines:

What's wrong and why isn't she working? Do I need these three solenoids or can I bypass them? And if I need them, where can I get them for as cheap as possible?

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu May 13, 2010 10:11 pm

I don't think the solenoids would have anything to do with the spark issue. You will have to wait for the boosted folks that have done swaps to chime in on this one.

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Thu May 13, 2010 10:24 pm

Those vacumm lines arent correct. Lookup diagrams on SRTforums. There is a how-to on running without soleniods. I used it and works just fine.

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Thu May 13, 2010 10:46 pm

I just edited my last post with the five codes that are being pulled.

I'm going to go search the SRT forums for a different vacuum diagram and a way to eliminate the solenoids, but I'm still awaiting someone to answer my question about spark...

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Thu May 13, 2010 10:53 pm

Those codes are because you prob dont have the solenoids hooked up. If you remove them you have to rerun the vac lines and use resistors in the solenoid plugs to make the comp think they are still there.

P1187
SYMPTOM
THROTTLE INLET PRESSURE/MAP CORRELATION
WHEN MONITORED
Ignition on.
SET CONDITION
The PCM compares the MAP and TIP sensor with the ignition on. If the sensors are not close in value a failure is recorded. The MAP and TIP
should be within the the range of 56 kPa and 112 kPa with the ignition on. Two trip failure.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Comparing map and tip sensors
Checking for other DTC's
Checking the hoses and tubing
(A23) Tip signal circuit open
(K167) Sensor ground circuit open
Solenoid test #1
Solenoid test #2
Solenoid test #3
Solenoid test #4
Throttle inlet pressure sensor
Checking vacuum passage
(K7) 5 volt supply circuit
MAP sensor internal open
(K1) MAP signal circuit open
(K1) MAP signal circuit shorted to ground
PCM

mikedon_2gn · Post by **mikedon_2gn** » Fri May 14, 2010 12:37 am

I had an issue with the engine turning over after dropping the engine in. There was spark but something wasn't right. We pulled the fuel rail and tried turning her over. The injectors were not spitting at all. Swapped the injectors and she turned over. The solenoids do not have to be hooked up. Just be prepared for the car to rev high if none of the vac lines are hooked up.

NOS2006 · Post by **NOS2006** » Fri May 14, 2010 1:08 am

Yeah, the only vac line that is messed up is that I have to route the WGA straight to the turbo instead of T'ing off another line.

The injectors should work fine. They're from the exact same engine that I swapped in and they worked just fine before I made the swap...

mikedon_2gn · Post by **mikedon_2gn** » Fri May 14, 2010 9:17 pm

NOS2006 wrote:Yeah, the only vac line that is messed up is that I have to route the WGA straight to the turbo instead of T'ing off another line.

The injectors should work fine. They're from the exact same engine that I swapped in and they worked just fine before I made the swap...

Oh and I had a bad fuel pump. Yours okay?