Anatomy of a gauge cluster with some pointers.

[Danteneon]

There is an easier way to it. Start with the cluster intact. Do a needle sweep test (hold down the trip reset button while turning the key to "On"). Make a note where the needles rest at each stop. For consistency, do this more than once. After you are done with your needles, place them on the gauge posts just enough so they wont fall off, and do the sweep test again. Once you have the needles where you want them, attach fully.

[Dennis Blewett]

I'm thinking it might be possible to desolder the odometer EEPROM memory chips (I assume they're hidden by the green board) and swap them. It'd be nice if I had another board to test that theory. I'll have to take a look at the EEPROM chips (assuming they exist) and determine if they are similar enough to be swapped. There are a few threads on the Internet where people have de-soldered the chips and swapped chips in reference to different types of vehicles. The Lexus weblink talks about throwing in a DIP socket.

Energy output of the chip should remain constant if you can swap out digital odometer cables with read-out. I'm just concerned about energy input to the chip, as that might fry the chip if not controlled: It'd be like giving a lightbulb too much power (pop!). There might be a way to check a circuit board for how much energy is going to a chip, which would cost much less than getting a scanner.

sources:

- http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2010/10/ ... rking.html
- http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105267 ... -dash.html
- http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/ ... 0_3125.jpg
- http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... -a-216290/
- http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es300-a ... mming.html

[Dennis Blewett]

The large squarish chip appears to be a microcontroller.

I found this page: http://cardamp.ru/view_full_one.php?lan ... list=15304

Notes:


процессор маркирован как SC502495CFN2

File:


dodge_neon.zip

Type of a file:

Eeprom (MC68HC11E9)

That might be the thing that has to do with the odometer. I reason it'd be more complicated being a microcontroller. The little square next to the odometer cable plug-in seems to be related to temperature, so I'm thinking maybe it has to do with the coolant thermostat.

I found this website: http://www.obd2tool.com/blog/digiprog-i ... -software/

Seems to me that a person needs a digital programming tool as a way of manipulating the microcontroller. I guess if the microcontrollers were the same, then it might be possible to just unsolder and swap; but I don't know enough about microcontrollers to be firm on that belief.

[NickKo]

Just wanted to add something to this thread, 'for future reference'.


I recently changed the dash cluster on a 2001 Neon. (Non-Sentry/No SKIM.)
Apparently, the 'donor' cluster that I picked up, must have come out of a car with SKIM..... Because that stooopid red circle / dot came on, after I started the car up.

I removed the cluster, and pulled out the offensive bulb.
Problem solved.

It was not a big deal, but it would have saved me a bit of aggravation - Had I known to remove the bulb BEFORE I installed the cluster in the car - And replaced the dash pad, etc.



Just wanted to mention this to others, who might be replacing a dash cluster - If you are installing a cluster, into a *NON*-SKIM or 'Non-sentry' Neon, from another car - It might be a good idea to check for the Sentry bulb, and remove it if necessary..... BEFORE installation.


- Nick

[AdioSS]

Which bulb is the skim bulb?

I know this is an old thread, but I’m new to these cars.

[occasional demons]

Looking at the cluster from the front, it is on the right side. It is easiest to just pull the bulbs out on that side, and look for the one that is a round dot when holding it up to a light.

The icons for what is in front of the bulb will illuminate. Most of the bulbs are marked on the cardboard on the back, but I don't recall if the SKIM light is.

[AdioSS]

I’m guessing the one marked SEC?

[occasional demons]

Yes. After the bulb holder is twisted out, just hold it up to a light to be sure there is a round dot there.

[AdioSS]

Yep. There are several empty holes. Gives me an idea.
Use multiple shift lights, but run the bulbs for them into these empty holes in the cluster.

[occasional demons]

If you were to use them for something other than the marked purpose, you would EITHER need to cut the printed circuit going to them, and use something less than 12 volts. The LED's will blow if you put 12 volts to them. I have not measured the voltage that does go to the sockets, but I'm sure if 12 volts plus was applied to the socket without protecting the cluster board, it would probably end badly.

So, you would need to get 12 volt replacement LED's or bulbs, and cut the printed circuit, and solder a pair of wires to the socket contact operate the light. Not something to try if you have little experience with printed circuit boards and soldering. It could get ugly, and the wire would have to be pretty small gauge to keep its weight from eventually pulling it back off the board.


OR

Now if you knew what wires going to the cluster activated the light, either via voltage to, or a ground path, the cluster board would illuminate the light. But you would need a factory pin out and wiring diagram to see what wire or empty connector socket is related to that light. The pin out alone will not tell you if voltage is applied, or if it needs a ground path. That is where you need the schematic for each circuit you wish to use.

And unfortunately, the FSM does not list everything in one convenient place.