2GN.ORG

I know I don't really post here much anymore, since work pretty much owns me, but I still have my Neon and hope to get an SRT soon (my wife will take the Neon to replace her Saturn).

Was reading up on spacers and what not and found a thread that had Danteneon post the part number for the studs (610-427 I think). Got four 5mm spacers off ebay (two for each side, obviously), and went to work on getting it done.

New studs on.


Before shot.


And an after shot.


I like it, how it sits more out than looking like it's "sunk" into the side of the car.

I did "roll" the fenders too with a heat gun and mallett... either I went too quickly on the driver side or what, but I cracked the paint a little bit on the edge (can't see it unless you look underneath). The passenger side is perfect, no cracks or anything... oh well. You live and you learn.

Gotta fix my front lip tomorrow since it's been "hanging" for quite some time... lol.

Anyway, let me know what you guys think! And I also got some black spline lugnuts. Nothing fancy, but figured it was better than the chrome.

Looks good. I like it. Actually thinking of doing the same thing with mine. But I might wait until I hunt down a rear disc conversion and do it all in one shot.


Looks good though. Nice work.

looks good!
post more pics of the car.. don't think I've seen any of it

Looks great! I'm glad to see that part number worked for you, since I sourced them for rear disc brakes. They fit in nice and tight?

Link to the thread? I need some longer studs for my 1gn as my BBS VW wheels have a 43mm offset.

Here ya go...

viewtopic.php?t=32417&highlight=wheel+spacer+studs

Ya, they fit nicely. I will be, hopefully, purchasing a rear disc setup soon so I'll just take them off and put them on the disc brakes. I am saving the original studs. All I did was use one of the acorn lugs without the shell, thread it on a little, and hammer the stud out (so not to damage the studs with the hammer, I'm instead hitting the lug). I work at a shop with air tools so I don't mind having to reinstall them on the disc brakes.

Thanks Dante!

Im glad you removed them the right way instead of beating them like they owed you money. Lol. Def looks good. Do you have any other pics of the car?? I don't think I've seen it before either.

Here's a couple quick pics. I really need to fix the front lip, it's gettin pretty haggard lol.





Sorry the last pic is dark... I will probably pull the car in later when I fix the lip and I'll get a better pic. Been thinking about gettin rid of all the stickers and either not having any or doing a different set.

Why is your car upside down ??

Now, for a serious / real question:
Are there any benefits, handling-wise ??
I'd imagine that moving the wheels 'outboard', would help... Although it may not be enough to notice, especially on the street.


- Nick

Ya, stupid iPhone pics.. It's actually right side up on my phone, when I'm viewing the website.

As far as handling... I'm not quite sure. I did it more for looks. I will be redoing my tire pressure the next rotate. I normally run like 45 in the front and 38 in the back. But I had lowered it to 36 all the way around before our trip to the beach.

Looks good. Yeah I would fix that front lip. Lol. But I like the lip you have on that. Is that the srt or rt lip kit?? Is it a 00-02 or 03-05 car?. I see the two different rear and front. I think you did the 00-02 front but not sure. Lol.

I like the car though. I would think that handling it might help slightly maybe not much of a noticeable difference with the spacers but, looks wise it looks good with the rear wheels out more. Did you space the fronts at all?

The front lip is a civic type s lip, cut in the middle to fit. I have R/T sideskirts, and mopar rear lip. It's a 2005, and I swapped a '02 front bumper with the Chrysler grille and LSP retrofits.

Here's another pic. Gonna run those zip ties for now, so the 3M tape can bond better.

I think a 15mm on the rear would sit perfect.. car looks good tho

Did you hammer your studs out of press them? Im curious cause I want to do it but I dnt want to screw up any bearings in the process. And did you have to roll the fenders or didya just want to just in case?

I hammered them out. But not like a friggin dumbass swinging as hard as I can. Lol.

And I just rolled them just in case. I'm thinking about doing a 15mm sometime, probably will go hub centric the next go around... Studs cost me next to nothing, and spacers were cheaper than that lol.

So I just finished doing this on my 1gn. Same exact process as a 2gn.

I rented a front end tool kit from O'reillys


My intention was to use this piece


However it wonldnt stay on so I used this piece out of the kit instead

(bottom middle in the top picture, with the bottom left hand bolt, which is a 15/16th head FYI)

Popped them all out


Pulled them all back in with a stack of washers ( I had a nice bearing from a miller special tool I used too)


Size difference


8mm hubcentric spacers with the studs


Old spacer on the bottom, new on the top.
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Once I figured out one side the other side was done quickly. Hope that helps anyone else trying to accomplish this.

Very good!

Is that the same wheel stud that I had used? I'm thinking about going up to 15mm... just to push the wheels out a littttle bit more in the back.

thought about doing this myself not just for looks but to run a wider tire as well. came out great though andrew

2005.Neon.SXT wrote:Very good!

Is that the same wheel stud that I had used? I'm thinking about going up to 15mm... just to push the wheels out a littttle bit more in the back.

Yes, same exact stud. I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread. Def. help with some tire wear head aches.

I'd like to go up too...I'd like a spacer with a hubcentric lip on it

Yeah, a hub centric -> wheel centric spacer is best. I've got a pair of 15mm and 25mm if anyone is interested.

Has anyone ran 25mm spacers all the way around? I want to bring the wheel flush to the fender and 25mm is the measurement I ended up with can anyone confirm. The 25mm spacers have built in studs but will I be able to bolt them to the hub without replacing the stock studs?

Not safe IMO. Will eat up your wheel bearings too.

What is the thickest spacer you would run? I planned on replacing bushings with polyurethane bushings to be able to act semi normally with the increased leverage arm I’d be creating. As for the wheel bearings, I think those will last plenty long and when they go out I’ll just replace them.

Get a proper sized wheel with offset and no spacers will be needed. I prefer no spacers.

"While it is possible to use 3mm wheel spacers with factory wheel studs, it is recommended for your safety that longer wheel studs be used. 5mm & 8mm wheel spacers should not be used with factory wheel studs, as there is not enough thread to safely install them. You will have to purchase longer wheel studs to use these wheel spacers."

and you are thinking about running 25mm wheel spacers. Lol

I would NEVER run a soacer with "built in studs" that goes over your existing studs. No way at all

MyNeonSaysHi wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 14, 2019 3:42 pm

Get a proper sized wheel with offset and no spacers will be needed. I prefer no spacers.

This.

Find some wheels with an inch less backspacing. Or better, wider wheels with the added width to the outside. This will retain the proper scrub radius, and load on the bearings. If you're worried about the cost of wheels, then maybe you should reconsider your comment about "and when they go out I’ll just replace them".

Unless you own a 20 ton shop press, and an alignment machine, they aren't going to be the cheapest sacrificial wear item, and the time to do all this yourself might require a spare vehicle.

The rear hubs are easier, and likely last much longer than the fronts, since they have much less stress on them, but quality units are going to be ~$60 each. You can go cheaper, but even on stock set ups, those might last a year, if you don't drive too much.