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I feel you man, I hate it when you're working on a project, and you lose your bolts! I was putting on my 03 mopar rear lip and I lost one damn bolt, and I looked for it for 2 hours. And Finally got that bish in. haha

yeah i hear you there.. but i think that I didn't recieve the bolts with the manifold.

damn dude the car looks sexy since i last seen it. i miss my spoiler! i am starting to see alot of neons with it now

SRT-Wannabe wrote:damn dude the car looks sexy since i last seen it. i miss my spoiler! i am starting to see alot of neons with it now

It really is looking good. And hey, another person in Houston! Sweet.

lol honestly i wouldn't be surprised if i've met you already, i'm out and about in the city alot. well not as much anymore since i lost my job.

SRT-Wannabe wrote:damn dude the car looks sexy since i last seen it. i miss my spoiler! i am starting to see alot of neons with it now

I still think that the spolier is the best part of the car. I don't think that I would change that ever.

I might try to work on it a bit over the weekend. Still not sure though.

One of these days I'd love to come see your car some time. The pictures are great, but seeing it in person would be even better.

not a problem just let me know.. its in pieces now... lol, but anytime really

Damn, $235 for 2 sways and a valve cover? That sounds a lil on the spendy side...either way, they look good and so does the rest of the car!

that is what I thought. they charged me additional for the anaodized look (additoal 40%) I didn't konw anywhere else to go, so I did it. I might not go back to them due to being so high.

They charged you extra because it's a three step process. You need a base, a mid coat and a clear top coat just like paint only it's with power. Even if they chose against the clear and just used the two coats, it's still alot more work than a single color. You have to prep it, put the first color on bake it to a certain temperature and while the piece is at that temperature coat it a second time and then a third.....

LilSparkPlug wrote:They charged you extra because it's a three step process. You need a base, a mid coat and a clear top coat just like paint only it's with power. Even if they chose against the clear and just used the two coats, it's still alot more work than a single color. You have to prep it, put the first color on bake it to a certain temperature and while the piece is at that temperature coat it a second time and then a third.....

they charged me 85 for a valve cover, 30 for the rear sway and 35 front sway. Total 150 bucks, and additonal 60 for the additonal charge. then with tax on top of it came to 235.

I'm looking for another PC in the area to finish up when I get $$$ to spend on the car again...

The prices actually aren't bad at all. The VC is a little high, but the sways are cheap.

Did they bill you after they did all the PC work, or did they give you that quote before doing it...and you just went with it?

they gave me the quote before. I didn't konw what it should actually cost so I just went with it. no biggie i guess.

I'm sure it looks sweet.

Yeah they look good, I just want this damn car done...


LOL


I was able to get the roll over valve ( return fitting) in place on the tank last weekend, and going to work with the oil pan I hope this weekend since I have the uni-bit to mess with. I'm still trying to figure how I'm going to mount it to the oil pan, but I think that I'll figure something out. I will try to keep this thread going as best as I can, I've been working out of town for the last 3 weeks and taking care of things around the house on the weekends, which leaves me no time to mess with the car. I promise that I will keep this project going.

wow man car looks great cant wait to see it finished

Car feels neglected and wants lovings....and pictures

One of these days I need to swing up there to check it out. I'd be more than happy to help however I can, but I'm not that handy. I'm learning, though.

Swing on up any time really..

Well I took some pics of the car, and did a little bit of work, not much though...

Here is the roll over return line installed, and its a -8 fitting and the rest of my lines are going to -6, soooo... I have to get a reducer at my local speed shop, and need to find me a place to get fuel lines that don't come in only 3 foot sections...



I also took a uni-bit to the oil pan to make for the return line, and now I'm kinda torn if I should drill the other two holes and bolt it to the oil pan, or find someone that can weld the fitting to the oil pan. If I weld, then I need to modify the fitting, and if I bolt, then need to make a gasket so it won't leak...

main hole drilled.. and bolt area mocked up.


What it should fit on the pan..


and what it should look like once I figure out what I need to do next


So here I am again at a stand still. I also am trying to figure if I should do the cooliant "T" or try to get another hard line and drill and thread a 1/4" NPT in it to run the lines....



What you all think???

i love pictures, even if your not sure what they are, a progress log is supposed to have pictures lol. keep up the good work.

sxxxt wrote:i love pictures, even if your not sure what they are, a progress log is supposed to have pictures lol. keep up the good work.

Are you talking about the last picture??

If so, this was my idea of getting my cooliant lines connected to the heater lines, but the fitting that I made it huge, and might kink the flex heater line. So I'm trying to figure if I should modify the 'hard line" ( from the water pump to the heater flex hose) by cutting the Hard line back a 1/2" to 3/4" so it won't put that big of a kink in the line or not.

The other idea is to find me another hard line and try to get a 1/4" barb NPT onto it and then just connect. Both will take some time to figure out, but though I would get some feedback onto what everyone else thought.


Also if anyone has done the SRT turbo swap onto a 2.0, how did you get the cooliant lines connected from the engine to the turbo. I'm willing to do what ever, ( as long as it isn't too expensive )

if it were me I would just use a plastic T fitting. Part store should have one, and it would be black so it wouldn't be extremely obvious. But then again, I'm not 100% sure how you're running the line, so just take that as a suggestion from an uninformed non turbo driving loser....

ejclide wrote:if it were me I would just use a plastic T fitting. Part store should have one, and it would be black so it wouldn't be extremely obvious. But then again, I'm not 100% sure how you're running the line, so just take that as a suggestion from an uninformed non turbo driving loser....

I thought that there might be a plastic "T" fitting that I could use, just not sure if they make it up to 3/8" hose. That is the size of the heater hose going to the fire wall, I woulld like that idea if I could find some.

dont know if this will help, but maybe u can make it work.

heres the link to this t-fitting

http://tinyurl.com/c8wuxt

Thanks for the link

NeonOn19s wrote:Thanks for the link

np.

will be dropping off my oil pan this weekend b4 I have to go to a wedding.

Keep you all posted.

NeonOn19s wrote:will be dropping off my oil pan this weekend b4 I have to go to a wedding.

Keep you all posted.

dropping it off to get painted or something?