Who uses AC?MoxHair wrote:Turn the A/C on and watch 'em shake. The Whole Car Rattles when the A/C is on.
Anoter first gen, niiicee. I would do two systems but it would be a hassle going back and forth.Ohhh side exit....Be still my heart.
I'm getting a 98 coupe tomorrow. I'm gonna have 2 exhaust setups:
Quiet and Loud side exit.
Those of us who don't have a winter use their A/C all year round. I don't believe I've ever used my rear defrost or Heater. This is why I decided against buying an 08 Pontiac Solstice GXP ZOK..MyNeonSaysHi wrote:Who uses AC?MoxHair wrote:Turn the A/C on and watch 'em shake. The Whole Car Rattles when the A/C is on.
But I will turn it on once it gets hot out. 4 or 5 months from now.
MoxHair wrote:Those of us who don't have a winter use their A/C all year round. I don't believe I've ever used my rear defrost or Heater. This is why I decided against buying an 08 Pontiac Solstice GXP ZOK..MyNeonSaysHi wrote:Who uses AC?MoxHair wrote:Turn the A/C on and watch 'em shake. The Whole Car Rattles when the A/C is on.
But I will turn it on once it gets hot out. 4 or 5 months from now.
Unless you are hardcore like me and don't use the AC because MS wasn't controlling my IAC and my car went crazy with the AC on. Even in the winter down here you use the AC.
Thanks! Thought I would never get something out of the ordinary but what can I say. Best performance for a great price!kc2002acr wrote:that exhaust sounds hawt!11!!!eleven!!1!
Still going to be comp controlled of course.
Nice isn't it. Its a group by and they are selling them cheap! $565 originally for $285 shipped for the second run. I have over a $100 in my Paypal account from selling random things so it won't hurt me too bad!BWoody Performance now offers our own FMIC upgrade for your Dodge SRT-4. Core measures 24" X 12" X 4" CAST Endtanks with a polished finish with a Bar and Plate Core design. OEM or aftermarket piping can be used with this upgrade. You will need to drill your mounting holes. We require this so that the intercooler can be positioned with all stock and aftermarket intercooler piping so installation is a very easy, and fit is perfect. Our FMIC does not require modification of the front fascia, but DOES require the removal of the OEM crash bar Because of this, this product is recommended for OFF ROAD USE ONLY.
Flow Test/Dyno Test Results: Cooling Efficiency: 90 - 98%, Pressure Drop: less than 1 psi@500 hp of airflow. Heat Soak: Unmeasurable (could not be determined after a whopping 10 back to back runs on the dyno). 14.9whp and 18.1 ft.lbs of torque gained on a stock SRT-4 running 17lbs of boost
What can I say...JRM wrote:Total amount "invested" in the srt4 now?
See garage for home much I have spent on mods. Was going to use money to pay it off. But this car makes me happy and modding it makes me happy.Damn! Thanks for another great headsup! I had a buddy who HAD a SRT-4, now has a 6.0 Goat he had the eBay intercooler and got it for $202 shipped, he was happy with it and stated it was the same thing as the Quickwhips.Dude.. I have the Bwoody Intercooler.. Unless you want a bunch of heat soak, I would suggest not getting it.
When I say a Bunch I mean a Bunch
1st run: 332.52whp; 354.79ft.lbs
2nd run: 322.20whp; 325.64ft.lbs
3rd run: 314.06whp; 323.16ft.lbs
The Bwoody/EvilCreations FMIC is just a QuickWhips/Ebay brand. They are exactly the same. No matter what those venders tell you. Side By Side, there is ZERO difference.
Although I am freaking busy as hell, except saturday mornings, and wednesday afternoons till 330pm. 
I am not sure when I will put them on, I might wait til late February or so. I want to make sure there will be no more snow. But who knows, I doubt I will be able to wait that long.kc2002acr wrote:WOW! Hey, remember, if you need help, I can help ya
the point of the light spring on the stock system is that it uses a solenoid valve to controll it, the solenoid routes boost onto the top of the diaphragm, that plus the spring pressure keeps it closed untill the tps signals the solenoid to switch, then the boost is releaved from the top of the diaphragm, and the boost in the charge pipe over comes the light spring pressure and vents.
it was designed with the solenoid for that purpose, so it could work with a light spring. putting in a stronger spring just defeats the whole reason for the solenoid.
if you have 16psi at red line, when the bov vents it dumps boost untill it drops below the 4psi of the spring, with an 8psi spring it will only be able to dump half of the boost, 16-to-8, then it will close at 8psi, causing the boost left in the charge pipe to back up into the turbo.
if you really want to play with the spring pressure, lower it, so the bov can vent even more of the charge, like maybe down to 2 psi.
the higher spring is just stalling out the turbo, thats why it causes more lag between shifts, the bov spring mod will give a decrease in performance since it causes more lag between shifts.
to the op, theres nothing wrong with your spring or install, thats just the result of using a higher pressure spring,
The OE valve works very well, unmodified. Yes it can get annoying if you have the Mopar plate because it is so sensitive, but that sensitivity is one of the things that I like about it, it works at very low pressure differentials.
The factory valve, in my testing up to 25psi, had no leakage. Here is the reason for that. When under boost, the air pressure on either side of the diaphragm is the same! So with that kind of neutral pressure, it requires only a VERY light spring to ensure that the valve stays closed under boost. So at 20psi of boost, you have 20psi pushing to open the valve, and roughly 24psi pushing it closed, so it stays closed. This means it will only take 4psi of pressure differential between the intake and charge plumbing to open the valve. Which makes it great for ultra-sensitivity and quick reaction.
Now if you put a 9psi spring in there... it is going to take 9psi of pressure differential to open the valve... more than twice as much stock.. so what you have is a valve that stay closed just as well as the stock spring, but requires more effort to open it. That is why it does not "blow off" as much as it did with the factory spring, and is more likely to surge.
Now the only thing I can imagine causing the factory valve to leak at high boost is if you have SIGNIFICANT pressure drop accross the intercooler.... like 4+psi. Like if you are taking the turbocharger WAY out of it's efficiency range, or you have a really shitty intercooler. Either way, your biggest problem is not your BOV.
Now... maybe it will NEVER kill a stock SRT-4 turbocharger... maybe it will. I cannot say. I don't hear about many stock turbochargers failing on these things under any conditions. But I myself personally have had turbochargers fail because of compressor surge. They were both aftermarket Garrett designs. One a T3 and one a hybrid. One was because of a "crushed" DSM BOV, and one was because of an over-tightened aftermarket valve (tightened only enough so it would stay closed at high boost)
I have no vendetta against vendors selling these springs, or hatred for PTP. Personally I think the childish vendor wars on this board really constipate the flow of good technical information. All I am saying is what I know.
Thats the only thing thats worrying me about slamming it. 
) Well... performance over looks... I will eventually have it going out the back or get a different tip for it. Like that one CF SRT-4 that was featured in mags with the dual tip SEE. Looked so hot.J-Villa wrote:ugh i hate the side exhuast....
can't wait to see it slammed
Hopefully this weekend. Thats going to be the first thing I do before I do anything else.