MyNeonSaysHi Mod Log: Stone White
- MyNeonSaysHi
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkE2X2eTv3g
Want to get a video of some WOT pulls
Want to get a video of some WOT pulls
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- RobsProjectSOHC
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thats sick. good numbers, congrats.
Project 003. Just building a Daily Driver with some upgrades.
For Sale Thread | CarDomain | FeedBack
Official "I'm gonna drive my Neon until it dies Club" Member #119
For Sale Thread | CarDomain | FeedBack
Official "I'm gonna drive my Neon until it dies Club" Member #119
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:46 pm
- Location: Kansas
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Location: Kansas
Haha true.
Well the HID fogs have come off the car., and I decided to go with some deletes. CarbonByDesign is the only company that makes them right now. I wasn't too happy with the price... $80 for fiberglass or $110 in carbon fiber. Factor in a whopping $20 for shipping and you got $100 for fiberglass and $130 for CF. I noticed a vendor on srtforums, MAPerformance sells CBD stuff and they say to "PM for the best price" So I did this and they quoted me $75 shipped in fiberglass. Thought that was reasonable enough so I sent Paypal. I got the package in the mail and low and behold, they were CF!
Installed!
Pictures were taken with my EVO 4g LTE
Well the HID fogs have come off the car., and I decided to go with some deletes. CarbonByDesign is the only company that makes them right now. I wasn't too happy with the price... $80 for fiberglass or $110 in carbon fiber. Factor in a whopping $20 for shipping and you got $100 for fiberglass and $130 for CF. I noticed a vendor on srtforums, MAPerformance sells CBD stuff and they say to "PM for the best price" So I did this and they quoted me $75 shipped in fiberglass. Thought that was reasonable enough so I sent Paypal. I got the package in the mail and low and behold, they were CF!
Installed!
Pictures were taken with my EVO 4g LTE
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Thank you. Yup, I am gonna keep it going.
I will try to make a long story short. My PS pump started to whine and it was very loud. So I bought a reman unit from Oreillys. Had a local shop install it since it was very hot out and just did not want to deal with it. Well I get a call and they said its leaking at the reservoir. He said they are going to try to fix it. Well... I got a call back and they said they fixed it. Its not leaking anymore. So I pay my $140 after taxes and start the car up and start to turn to drive out of the lot. It's groaning real bad. Don't think much of it.. Probably just air in the system that is working its way out. Get to work. Pop the hood while the car is running and its leaking and half my fluid is gone. Call up the shop and he said you are going to need an OEM unit that comes with the reservoir. And since I bought the part and the shop didn't, I am going to have to eat the labor cost. At this point I am quite upset. So I talked to my buddy and he said why not swap to a manual rack? So I looked into it and sure enough a 95 neon manual rack with a coupler will work with little modification. Just a bracket or washers. So I went on my journey looking for those parts and decided to go new since reman was out of the question EVERYWHERE. No one had a reman 95 manual rack. Since there were none in for cores. So my friend who works at Dodge hooked it up and I have a new 95 manual rack that Dodge had to order from Vintage Auto and a 95 coupler. I recently found out the recall 95 coupler supposedly fits better. Oh well.
For the time being I took out my reman PS pump and got ALL my money back including the new pulley and belt I got. I found out why it was leaking. The o-ring that sits on top of the pump that the reservoir sits in was broke in 3 pieces...Install error in my opinion. Going to have to call the shop out on that one.
I ended up looping the lines by simply attaching them with a hose clamp. Very difficult to drive! I did notice my reman rack that is on the car is seeping quite bad too. So I am happy to get rid of the PS crap and have a nice little project on my hands and not have to worry about PS crap.
Yesterday I decided to get rid of my AC system. It was pretty straight forward. Took the EVAP canister and lines first. Had to move my upper torque strut over to get those lines out. I decided to do a boost leak test to see how my weld was holding up on my AGP DFIC. Sure as hell it was leaking really bad. But not at the weld...On the direct opposite side that that faces the radiator. No wonder my car was not feeling as strong WOT. Going to go back to a factory intercooler since they actually perform VERY well test shows compared to the heavy pricey aftermarket units that actually have a bad pressure drop. I then removed the front fasica along with the front crash bar and intercooler. Pulled the AC condensor out from the top. Was a tight fit but got it out. That thing is huge and covers pretty much the entire radiator! Then it was time to get at the compressor. Got that heavy thing out from the bottom along with the tensioner.
Here are pictures of the chaos:
Before moving the car forward for the night.
I will try to make a long story short. My PS pump started to whine and it was very loud. So I bought a reman unit from Oreillys. Had a local shop install it since it was very hot out and just did not want to deal with it. Well I get a call and they said its leaking at the reservoir. He said they are going to try to fix it. Well... I got a call back and they said they fixed it. Its not leaking anymore. So I pay my $140 after taxes and start the car up and start to turn to drive out of the lot. It's groaning real bad. Don't think much of it.. Probably just air in the system that is working its way out. Get to work. Pop the hood while the car is running and its leaking and half my fluid is gone. Call up the shop and he said you are going to need an OEM unit that comes with the reservoir. And since I bought the part and the shop didn't, I am going to have to eat the labor cost. At this point I am quite upset. So I talked to my buddy and he said why not swap to a manual rack? So I looked into it and sure enough a 95 neon manual rack with a coupler will work with little modification. Just a bracket or washers. So I went on my journey looking for those parts and decided to go new since reman was out of the question EVERYWHERE. No one had a reman 95 manual rack. Since there were none in for cores. So my friend who works at Dodge hooked it up and I have a new 95 manual rack that Dodge had to order from Vintage Auto and a 95 coupler. I recently found out the recall 95 coupler supposedly fits better. Oh well.
For the time being I took out my reman PS pump and got ALL my money back including the new pulley and belt I got. I found out why it was leaking. The o-ring that sits on top of the pump that the reservoir sits in was broke in 3 pieces...Install error in my opinion. Going to have to call the shop out on that one.
I ended up looping the lines by simply attaching them with a hose clamp. Very difficult to drive! I did notice my reman rack that is on the car is seeping quite bad too. So I am happy to get rid of the PS crap and have a nice little project on my hands and not have to worry about PS crap.
Yesterday I decided to get rid of my AC system. It was pretty straight forward. Took the EVAP canister and lines first. Had to move my upper torque strut over to get those lines out. I decided to do a boost leak test to see how my weld was holding up on my AGP DFIC. Sure as hell it was leaking really bad. But not at the weld...On the direct opposite side that that faces the radiator. No wonder my car was not feeling as strong WOT. Going to go back to a factory intercooler since they actually perform VERY well test shows compared to the heavy pricey aftermarket units that actually have a bad pressure drop. I then removed the front fasica along with the front crash bar and intercooler. Pulled the AC condensor out from the top. Was a tight fit but got it out. That thing is huge and covers pretty much the entire radiator! Then it was time to get at the compressor. Got that heavy thing out from the bottom along with the tensioner.
Here are pictures of the chaos:
Before moving the car forward for the night.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
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Dude! I can't believe you basically made 400whp! That is awesome.
Which brings me to my next comment: if you are making sweet power, AND you're getting rid of creature comforts on the SRT-4......you better leave the R/T alone in the power department. You're not going to feel a damn difference on the R/T.
Which brings me to my next comment: if you are making sweet power, AND you're getting rid of creature comforts on the SRT-4......you better leave the R/T alone in the power department. You're not going to feel a damn difference on the R/T.
- MyNeonSaysHi
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I will keep this thread updated. My friend called and he said they got the rack and coupler in. Will be picking it up tomorrow between jobs. I also have a stock intercooler on the way. Going to get some etching mag cleaner and clean that thing up along with my intake manifold.SC62391 wrote:Looks like a fun project
Interested in the manual steering project
Yeah I was happy with my numbers. e85 is something else. That was on a base rescale. It runs great so there is no need to really get a true tune. Yup, exactly. Not going to mess with the R/T. Its my MPG beast. Had quite a bit WOT pulls on my last tank. Got 27.8 mpg. Babying it this tank. Hope to hit 30.Dude! I can't believe you basically made 400whp! That is awesome.
Which brings me to my next comment: if you are making sweet power, AND you're getting rid of creature comforts on the SRT-4......you better leave the R/T alone in the power department. You're not going to feel a damn difference on the R/T.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Haven't posted full shots with them yet.
Might as well add this here too:
Here is the info I got PMd from a member on neons.org:
http://neons.org/neontsb/TSB/recall/rc741custlet.htm
My parts came in.
Oh and look what I parked next to at work...
4 lug. primer bumpers. ATX. Probably has a manual rack... lol
Might as well add this here too:
Here is the info I got PMd from a member on neons.org:
http://neons.org/neontsb/TSB/recall/rc741custlet.htm
My parts came in.
Oh and look what I parked next to at work...
4 lug. primer bumpers. ATX. Probably has a manual rack... lol
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Got the car back together with the factory intercooler. No more boost leaks! Plus the factory unit is very light as opposed to the stainless steel AGP direct fit. Probably around 20lbs in weight savings going back to the stocker. Re-located my catch can and painted it black as you can see. Still have more cleaning to do in the bay. Those bolts stick out bad with all that surface rust.
New air filter too:
Needed one badly!
Manual rack install will be coming soon. Picked up a perfect condition subframe from an ACR, along with SRT-4 ACR struts/spring setup and the rear disc/calipers. Subframe needs new LCA bushings.
New air filter too:
Needed one badly!
Manual rack install will be coming soon. Picked up a perfect condition subframe from an ACR, along with SRT-4 ACR struts/spring setup and the rear disc/calipers. Subframe needs new LCA bushings.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Took the car to Heartland PArk Topeka for import face off. Was going to run, but at 110 degrees and a $30 entry fee, I was like eff that. So I just spectated it. Had an okay time but the heat was a bummer. Quite a few people left early.
The drive up there was the most fun. Had 3 other SRT's to cruise up there with. I-70 is a very nice smooth interstate that is 4 lanes wide. Traffic was dead due to it being a Sunday and hot. So we were cruising at around 90-100 most of the way. So was everyone else. 75 MPH speed limit too which is nice. Well I decided to do a top speed run since I really have never done it before. Fastest I got it was 140 on a back road when I was only at 270whp. Could of went faster but 140 was the goal. So I decided to bite the bullet and go for it. Very nice open stretch with no traffic in site. I ended up hitting 164 at 6100rpms and put it in neutral and started to coast to 140 or so before I gently applied the brakes. I got there pretty quick, was very surprised on how well it pulls up top. Having 400whp/400wtq does help quite a bit.
I weighed the car there and it was 2980 WITH me in it. 1/2 tank of gas. Full interior. Minus the trunk, which is gutted. AC/PS delete.
And here are some pictures:
Some e85 in overbrook, ks. Only $3.30 a gallon for e85. 91 was $3.95 a gallon
The drive up there was the most fun. Had 3 other SRT's to cruise up there with. I-70 is a very nice smooth interstate that is 4 lanes wide. Traffic was dead due to it being a Sunday and hot. So we were cruising at around 90-100 most of the way. So was everyone else. 75 MPH speed limit too which is nice. Well I decided to do a top speed run since I really have never done it before. Fastest I got it was 140 on a back road when I was only at 270whp. Could of went faster but 140 was the goal. So I decided to bite the bullet and go for it. Very nice open stretch with no traffic in site. I ended up hitting 164 at 6100rpms and put it in neutral and started to coast to 140 or so before I gently applied the brakes. I got there pretty quick, was very surprised on how well it pulls up top. Having 400whp/400wtq does help quite a bit.
I weighed the car there and it was 2980 WITH me in it. 1/2 tank of gas. Full interior. Minus the trunk, which is gutted. AC/PS delete.
And here are some pictures:
Some e85 in overbrook, ks. Only $3.30 a gallon for e85. 91 was $3.95 a gallon
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Thanks bro
Manual rack progress:
Got another subframe from a ACR SRT-4 with only 33k miles. Degreased it and powerwashed it since a CV boot blew all over it.
Took it all apart
Mocked up the manual rack
What I need:
-Prothane LCA bushings for the LCA's
-Moog ball joints
-Bracket for the manual rack. I have the specs for it.
-Tear down time for the swap.
Manual rack progress:
Got another subframe from a ACR SRT-4 with only 33k miles. Degreased it and powerwashed it since a CV boot blew all over it.
Took it all apart
Mocked up the manual rack
What I need:
-Prothane LCA bushings for the LCA's
-Moog ball joints
-Bracket for the manual rack. I have the specs for it.
-Tear down time for the swap.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
You just need to remove the part the rack sits on, grind off the welded nuts underneath, weld a new plate with nuts for the correct mounting then cut up another subrame on pass side ( take a small section ), weld that extra section in and your rack will be "safely" mounted.MyNeonSaysHi wrote:Thanks bro
Manual rack progress:
Got another subframe from a ACR SRT-4 with only 33k miles. Degreased it and powerwashed it since a CV boot blew all over it.
-Bracket for the manual rack. I have the specs for it.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
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Props for doing the manual rack right! I always regretted looping the lines rather than doing a rack swap.
I saw above you just did a rescale for the e85 switch. Were you rescaling the fuel trims only? When tuning my car for e85, I noticed vast improvements by increasing ignition timing. Low end driveability and upper range WOT both improved drastically with increase timing. Might be worth looking into if you're trying to squeeze out a few ponies.
I saw above you just did a rescale for the e85 switch. Were you rescaling the fuel trims only? When tuning my car for e85, I noticed vast improvements by increasing ignition timing. Low end driveability and upper range WOT both improved drastically with increase timing. Might be worth looking into if you're trying to squeeze out a few ponies.
- MyNeonSaysHi
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That is a bit more work....chew* wrote:You just need to remove the part the rack sits on, grind off the welded nuts underneath, weld a new plate with nuts for the correct mounting then cut up another subrame on pass side ( take a small section ), weld that extra section in and your rack will be "safely" mounted.MyNeonSaysHi wrote:Thanks bro
Manual rack progress:
Got another subframe from a ACR SRT-4 with only 33k miles. Degreased it and powerwashed it since a CV boot blew all over it.
-Bracket for the manual rack. I have the specs for it.
I will pass that idea to my friend though.
Still have my lines looped for the time being. Parking lots SUCK. ITs really not that bad though.Props for doing the manual rack right! I always regretted looping the lines rather than doing a rack swap.
I saw above you just did a rescale for the e85 switch. Were you rescaling the fuel trims only? When tuning my car for e85, I noticed vast improvements by increasing ignition timing. Low end driveability and upper range WOT both improved drastically with increase timing. Might be worth looking into if you're trying to squeeze out a few ponies.
I sent $$$ to Dave on SRTforums. He sells the Siemens big injectors and they come with a rescale for the DiabloSport. I loaded the rescale in my handheld and loaded up in my car. HAd to add a bit of fuel, but other than that it was spot on. I am maxed out fuel wise. Running 29-30 degrees of timing at WOT and 24lbs of boost bleeding to 20.5 at redline.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Well after selling my black SRT-4 and picking up a 1gn for cheap I have quite a bit of extra money burning a hole in my pocket. I also just opened up a new credit card and if you spend $1k in 3 months you get $250 back. I pay my CC's at the end of the month so I just take advantage of their incentives.
So that being said I bought the BEST carbon fiber hood for the SRT-4. A Kaminari CF hood. I did it right the first time.
These are made to order, which means they do not have a stack of them sitting in some warehouse. Very excited to get such a fine piece of craftsmanship. Will be up to 10 days before its shipped out. Should look great with my black housing headlights and CF fog deletes.
So that being said I bought the BEST carbon fiber hood for the SRT-4. A Kaminari CF hood. I did it right the first time.
These are made to order, which means they do not have a stack of them sitting in some warehouse. Very excited to get such a fine piece of craftsmanship. Will be up to 10 days before its shipped out. Should look great with my black housing headlights and CF fog deletes.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Only one style they offer for the SRT-4.Danteneon wrote:Wow, you don't see many Kaminari hoods around. Which style did you get?
How is the manual rack mounting project going?
http://www.kaminari.com/dodge-neon-srt4 ... ull-carbon
Manual rack project is halted of course. My sway bar bracket I ordered did not come with a bushing so I am trying to source a bushing. Went to the Ford dealership last week and they said it could either be F81Z-5484-HA or -BA
05-07 Super Duty F250. I saw a picture of the -HA but it didn't look like it would fit my bracket.. Can't find pictures of the -BA.
Power rack is holding up fine with the lines looped so the project has kind of halted.
Nope they do not. I am actually going to hold onto them.Do the fog deletes go on top of the bezels? If not....want to sell me your bezels?
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
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