Going to be taking off the surge valve with PTP spring. Learned a bunch of info on an upgraded spring and found out its not a good thing to have on a stock turbo. So on goes the stock surge valve.
Modifying a car really has its ups and downs.
This is one of the comments that closed the deal:
the point of the light spring on the stock system is that it uses a solenoid valve to controll it, the solenoid routes boost onto the top of the diaphragm, that plus the spring pressure keeps it closed untill the tps signals the solenoid to switch, then the boost is releaved from the top of the diaphragm, and the boost in the charge pipe over comes the light spring pressure and vents.
it was designed with the solenoid for that purpose, so it could work with a light spring. putting in a stronger spring just defeats the whole reason for the solenoid.
if you have 16psi at red line, when the bov vents it dumps boost untill it drops below the 4psi of the spring, with an 8psi spring it will only be able to dump half of the boost, 16-to-8, then it will close at 8psi, causing the boost left in the charge pipe to back up into the turbo.
if you really want to play with the spring pressure, lower it, so the bov can vent even more of the charge, like maybe down to 2 psi.
the higher spring is just stalling out the turbo, thats why it causes more lag between shifts, the bov spring mod will give a decrease in performance since it causes more lag between shifts.
to the op, theres nothing wrong with your spring or install, thats just the result of using a higher pressure spring,
The OE valve works very well, unmodified. Yes it can get annoying if you have the Mopar plate because it is so sensitive, but that sensitivity is one of the things that I like about it, it works at very low pressure differentials.
The factory valve, in my testing up to 25psi, had no leakage. Here is the reason for that. When under boost, the air pressure on either side of the diaphragm is the same! So with that kind of neutral pressure, it requires only a VERY light spring to ensure that the valve stays closed under boost. So at 20psi of boost, you have 20psi pushing to open the valve, and roughly 24psi pushing it closed, so it stays closed. This means it will only take 4psi of pressure differential between the intake and charge plumbing to open the valve. Which makes it great for ultra-sensitivity and quick reaction.
Now if you put a 9psi spring in there... it is going to take 9psi of pressure differential to open the valve... more than twice as much stock.. so what you have is a valve that stay closed just as well as the stock spring, but requires more effort to open it. That is why it does not "blow off" as much as it did with the factory spring, and is more likely to surge.
Now the only thing I can imagine causing the factory valve to leak at high boost is if you have SIGNIFICANT pressure drop accross the intercooler.... like 4+psi. Like if you are taking the turbocharger WAY out of it's efficiency range, or you have a really shitty intercooler. Either way, your biggest problem is not your BOV.
Now... maybe it will NEVER kill a stock SRT-4 turbocharger... maybe it will. I cannot say. I don't hear about many stock turbochargers failing on these things under any conditions. But I myself personally have had turbochargers fail because of compressor surge. They were both aftermarket Garrett designs. One a T3 and one a hybrid. One was because of a "crushed" DSM BOV, and one was because of an over-tightened aftermarket valve (tightened only enough so it would stay closed at high boost)
I have no vendetta against vendors selling these springs, or hatred for PTP. Personally I think the childish vendor wars on this board really constipate the flow of good technical information. All I am saying is what I know.