ZeroChad's Log -- Parting out this weekend.
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Sweet. All of my parts are here. Here's the engine stuff + LCAs. Those bushings are beefy! I'm sure the ride is going to feel amazing with them installed. I might wait to put them out till I get the engine going though.
Now, to whore it up with some pics of the pistons. The build quality of these is just phenomenal. I don't think I've held such a quality, high tolerance part in my hand. ever.
Anti Friction coating skirts
Wrist pin hole. Notice the raised portion on top. I think its technically called the dome.
Better pic with valve reliefs
From the underside
They even sharpie the weights on the bottom. There is about a gram and a half variance between the four. Not bad!
Now, to whore it up with some pics of the pistons. The build quality of these is just phenomenal. I don't think I've held such a quality, high tolerance part in my hand. ever.
Anti Friction coating skirts
Wrist pin hole. Notice the raised portion on top. I think its technically called the dome.
Better pic with valve reliefs
From the underside
They even sharpie the weights on the bottom. There is about a gram and a half variance between the four. Not bad!
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Bearings, LCA, mat = modern
Gaskets = Rock Auto
Pistons/Rods = Real Street Performance
Felpro is pretty much the only gasket I use.
I think Modern only sells JE pistons. When you factor in the added cost + rings its quite a bit more than Wiseco. Not to mention the sweet coating.
Gaskets = Rock Auto
Pistons/Rods = Real Street Performance
Felpro is pretty much the only gasket I use.
I think Modern only sells JE pistons. When you factor in the added cost + rings its quite a bit more than Wiseco. Not to mention the sweet coating.
haha my wife was like omg those look beautiful haha shes into car too haha
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Dan - Thanks man!
Fuzzy - a month ago I wouldn't have known either. With enough time and effort though, its amazing the things you can learn how to do.
09- I'm thinking monday is when I'll be sizing up the rings and dropping em in
Wrist pins and rods are on. The retaining clips weren't quite as hard to get on as I was expecting. These use a floating wrist pin type.
Fuzzy - a month ago I wouldn't have known either. With enough time and effort though, its amazing the things you can learn how to do.
09- I'm thinking monday is when I'll be sizing up the rings and dropping em in
Wrist pins and rods are on. The retaining clips weren't quite as hard to get on as I was expecting. These use a floating wrist pin type.
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I'm pooped lol. I ended up not getting too much done last night. I lost some bolts to my UPD/Steering wheel puller. But, I just finished taking the head off and plugging the coolant passages. Here's some quick pics. I'm going to the pool now to cool off. Things have gone so freaking smoothily so far. I might take out the pistons/rods when I get back.
Engine mount bracket off.
Head off
Coolant pluged
FYI this is what I'm working with.
Engine mount bracket off.
Head off
Coolant pluged
FYI this is what I'm working with.
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Shadetree mechanic...love it!! Looks like it is going well thus far.
Chris | 00 Dodge Neon (Dark Jewel) | 04 Dodge Neon R/T | 00 Honda S2000 |
Proud member of CYL [www.caughtyalookin.com]
Proud member of CYL [www.caughtyalookin.com]
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Chris - Hell yeah! Well, technically it was only shady there after 4, but it still works.
Adam - Me too man. I don't wanna mess anything up this time though.
Danny - I'm not sure how they feel about it lol. I've never had my car on jackstands here before, but I should be done by the end of tomorrow, so we'll see what happens lol.
I was able to get the pistons out. Those rod cap bolts were on there pretty tight. Overall, things look great. No cylinder damage at all. The counter weight on the crankshaft looks okay. Its scratched, but not badly. Every single rod bearing looked freaking mint. That surprised me for being close to 100k.
The bent rod in cyl 1 compared to a good one.
Pics of the piston damage from hitting the counterweight.
Bearings on the bent rod. They looked great.
Old to New
Adam - Me too man. I don't wanna mess anything up this time though.
Danny - I'm not sure how they feel about it lol. I've never had my car on jackstands here before, but I should be done by the end of tomorrow, so we'll see what happens lol.
I was able to get the pistons out. Those rod cap bolts were on there pretty tight. Overall, things look great. No cylinder damage at all. The counter weight on the crankshaft looks okay. Its scratched, but not badly. Every single rod bearing looked freaking mint. That surprised me for being close to 100k.
The bent rod in cyl 1 compared to a good one.
Pics of the piston damage from hitting the counterweight.
Bearings on the bent rod. They looked great.
Old to New
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As long as you stick with a bigger turbo to avoid a sharp torque peak and keep boost pressure down pretty low, there's no reason you can't make that thing scream. I intend to run 36-38psi on my 9.2ish:1 motor on e85. If you keep yours down in the teens or low 20s, it should be very tunable, and able to make tons of power. (500 seems pretty easy with a bigger cam and a setup that breathes well)
ASP - First NGC SOHC in the 13s and the 12s. First SOHC neon over 500whp. First NGC Neon on MS.
Winston Churchill wrote:Yes, Madam, I am drunk, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly.
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wow man those look sick and yeah you should deff boost your whip man not rying to thread jack just want a little info verything here in this picture is everything you need to fully rebuild the block minus the crank right wich would consist of pistons, piston rings, rods, rod bearings and main baring plus all the gaskets right am i missing anything?
2004 white dodge neon 2.4 DOHC swapped
2004 red dodge neon srt-4 gone
2000 flat black plymouth neon 2.0 DOHC swapped gone
2002 silver dodge neon parts car R.I.P
2000 green dodge neon parts car R.I.P
Awesome work! I work under a tree also and it is not fun...
I have a couple of questions, how can you tell if the block itself needs/does not need some work? and if you don't mind me asking, how much did this cost you? I need to do something like this soon + a valve job since my engine has become very week at 130,000 miles....
thanks, keep us updated?:thumbup:
I have a couple of questions, how can you tell if the block itself needs/does not need some work? and if you don't mind me asking, how much did this cost you? I need to do something like this soon + a valve job since my engine has become very week at 130,000 miles....
thanks, keep us updated?:thumbup:
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Yeah, I may hit up asp next year when I graduate and have a nice salary. The high comp should provide some nice torque out of boost too to make it more streetable.esteinmaier wrote:As long as you stick with a bigger turbo to avoid a sharp torque peak and keep boost pressure down pretty low, there's no reason you can't make that thing scream. I intend to run 36-38psi on my 9.2ish:1 motor on e85. If you keep yours down in the teens or low 20s, it should be very tunable, and able to make tons of power. (500 seems pretty easy with a bigger cam and a setup that breathes well)
LMAO thanks chica. I couldn't believe how much it was bent, and it wasn't making contact with the cylinder wall. Its kinda cool working outside. I'm keeping everyone in my building updated, they usually stop by and say hi when they get out of there car.That rod is spooning......that bastage. Coming along well though especially for the space in which you have to work.
Pretty much, you'd want the mopar bed plate sealant too if you're doing the main bearings. Its green colored. Also, don't forget plastigauge, gauge feelers, a cylinder hone, and a ring compressor/expander. You can rent some of those from advanced/autozone though.wow man those look sick and yeah you should deff boost your whip man not rying to thread jack just want a little info verything here in this picture is everything you need to fully rebuild the block minus the crank right wich would consist of pistons, piston rings, rods, rod bearings and main baring plus all the gaskets right am i missing anything?
You might want to do your tensioner, water pump, and oil pump while you have it torn apart. I had mine done 3 months ago in my first rebuild
Thanks, I think its going to come in just south of a grand. It depends if I want to buy or rent some of the tools. A compression check would be a good place to start. You can always get an oil analysis done to to check for wear. If you drop the oil pan, you can do a quick check on your bearings and rod clearance. You'd need new bolts though since you can't reuse the stock rod bolts.I have a couple of questions, how can you tell if the block itself needs/does not need some work? and if you don't mind me asking, how much did this cost you? I need to do something like this soon + a valve job since my engine has become very week at 130,000 miles....