2GN.ORG

Gives me tons of motivation! I want to upgrade my pistons, but REALLY don't want to pull the motor. Did you use the bottle brush in the block?

Jeff - I have one from when I first started it up, but I need to take some better ones. I just need to get past the dang break in and do some WOT runs

Jerry - Do it man! It went so much smoother than I was anticipating. I actually just rented a stone hone from autozone. I think it had 220 grit stones on it. It worked pretty well.

Tackling the LCA bushings and front sway after class today.

glad to see she doing well again!!

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #2

Wow. I just caught up with this thread and I have to say I'm impressed! You didn't let the whole incident get you down and you did great work on the rebuild (on the street no less!).

Kudos to you sir

well, I was able to get the driver's side LCA bushings installed. That was a hell of a job for hand tools. Unfortunate it didn't fix the clunking going on from that side when I go over bumps. I thought it would since the old vertical bushing was pretty much gone. This leaves: coilover, CV joint, or wheel bearing I guess. On top of that, my PS pump is squeaking. Not sure what I want to do about that.

Danteneon wrote:Wow. I just caught up with this thread and I have to say I'm impressed! You didn't let the whole incident get you down and you did great work on the rebuild (on the street no less!).

Kudos to you sir

Thanks man. I was a long process, but it came out well. I can't believe I was able to get it all done so quickly. I really didn't have any other choice though, unless I wanted to part out the car with all I have into it, just to get some beater.

SOKADAO954 wrote:glad to see she doing well again!!

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #2

For sure! I guess I should put "...till it Dies again"

Make sure the you torque down the ball joint - to knuckle bolt really well. that will cause a clunk and is dangerous. some people (on SRT forums) reported having a clunk after changing the bushings because of that..i did not though ...

could be your steering rack.....but i would look at more obvious things such as tie-rods, ball-joints, and sway bushings first......

hi juat been reading your build log good work there mate

am just about to start my rebuild trying to get it stronger for more nitrous.

can you send me a link for a 400 comp cam cant fined one. also whats the idel like???

keep the good work up mate

go to ebay man, they have them for sale. just type in like, comp cam 400 neon. and it will come up. 250 plus like ten bucks shipping.

Simply badass dude. COngrats!

the bent rod avatar, is awesome. lol

latief - yeah, it definitely sounds like its coming from the wheel well. I'm really hoping its just a wheel bearing.

mr_mopar_neon - I appreciate it man! The idle is real nice. It sounds little more vicious now with good loping, but it doesn't stumble at all. Overall I'd say its a lot happier than with the stock pistons/cam.

neonslg09 - Yeah dude, I got mine from ebay too. Haha, I figured that pic would make a pretty awesome avatar.

Nate - Thanks! I wish I could have gone to Carslile this year though.

thnaks guy but the olny one i can fined on ebay is the zex cam

mr_mopar_neon wrote:thnaks guy but the olny one i can fined on ebay is the zex cam

Same one. They just rebranded it. Its kinda like Megan vs BC coilovers; they're the same.

sorry to keep going on about it but is this what am looking for the
Click Link


*Link made smaller by Danteneon*

That's it, buy it.

are we shore lol dont take it the wrong way but when its haveing to be sent over the pond to england i dont want to get the wrong one lol

make sure you check your tie rod ends. I just did my vertical LCA bushings and I'm still having a horrible clunk on the left side. It's the tie rod for sure as I have plenty of play. Get moog too. I can give you at least 2 good reasons to buy moog over anything else....

1) Powder metal bearings
2) Lifetime warranty

^The tie rod seems tight. I have no Idea what the problem is.


In worse news, I was trying to remove my passenger side LCA today to replace those bushings, and I'm pretty sure that I've broke the vertical bolt weld nut in the frame. Its either that, or the last portion of the bolt is caught in the nut. The other side was pretty rusted.

Blah, needless to say I'm pretty pissed.

shits just turning up everywhere on you man. 09 - bad luck for chad

No kidding! Well the freaking weld nut in the frame for sure broke off....blargh. Maybe I'll just take it in somewhere to get it fixed.

best of luck for the fix. you gonna take it to someone or you still gonna try to fix it yourself?

ZeroChad wrote:No kidding! Well the freaking weld nut in the frame for sure broke off....blargh. Maybe I'll just take it in somewhere to get it fixed.

This is a common problem on the 1st gen Neons.
(Especially in the rust belt & up north)

- Nick

Looking at it again today, I think I'll try and tackle it. I was pretty pissed off yesterday. I think I'm just going to drill into the frame and hold the nut to remove the bolt. Its going to be a huge PITA though.
I hate suspension work in the rust belt.

ZeroChad wrote:I hate suspension work in the rust belt.

AMEN to that. Sucks!

Wow that sucks hopefully you can get it out

yo dude are you using any kined on pcm or have you had a remap????

Suckage Indeed! Hopefully I'll get her fixed up on Tuesday. mr mopar, I'm still on the stock ecu. I haven't really been able to test it out yet, but it seems to be working fine. Resetting the ecu is a must though, as it relearns fuel curves. I'm eventually going megasquirt to get the most out of the engine.

thanks man you will have to keep me posted when you get her going

dude pull up your carpet and cut a small square hole in the floor board right above the nut. then you can either hold the nut or tack weld it into place. then just cover the hole with some sheet metal and screws. problem solved