sidepipe87: A pandemic miracle

theColonel · Post by **theColonel** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:58 pm

TheRandom1 wrote:Awesome, glad it ran properly for you and congrats on your win!

... a well deserved win

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:24 pm

Congrats dude, car looked amazing, sorry I didn't get to talk to you and check out the car that much, but it looked amazing, and I love the lettering on it.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:30 pm

Gratz Ryan, you deserved it

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:35 pm

Thanks guys!

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:13 am

Hell yes! Congrats on 1st! Thats a biggy and well deserved IMO.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:31 am

I received 2nd place back in 09 the first year I went, so it was nice to follow it up with a 1st

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:03 am

Oh yeah...you got beat out by some POS white ACR iirc

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:30 pm

haha I'll let it slide this time

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:12 pm

A little update. I took the TB off the silver car because I had a high idle issue and it seemed like the TB was sticking and not closing all the way. Didn't see anything visibly wrong with it but it still acted that same way. I decided to try loosening the torx and repositioning the plate. I did that and it seemed to help a lot... I reinstalled the TB and put a new clamp on the lower boost hardpipe while I was at it (need to get some T bolts). The throttle felt much better after this but didn't drive the car long enough to see if it fixed my issue. It only happens once the car is warmed up. The new clamp seemed to help with boost leaks though as I can now boost to at least 10 lbs, where I wasn't going past 5 before. I also replaced the TB gasket, TB spacer O ring and injector O rings. Next up will be a boost leak test again.

Also, as most of you know I got a new "DD". I traded the red car for a Stage 3 Solar Yellow SRT

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:15 pm

So now you're DDing an SRT and your toy is a swapped Neon? You're a sick sick man...

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:23 pm

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:24 pm

Correction. DD-ing a STAGE 3 srt and the toy is a stock srt swap which now looks practical

I'm thinking about putting the yellow car back to stock and putting the Stage 3 on the silver car. It sure is quick, but fuck the fuel economy lol

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:06 pm

I like the idea of putting the S3 kit on the silver car.. quite a bit of work though!

T-bolts are not necessary IMO. Worm clamps work great as long as they are on straight.... They hold boost fine.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:16 pm

Yeah it will be a hell of a lot of work to completely unstage the one car and do the other car.

I just don't like the I stripped one worm clamp by trying to get it tight and that one caused a boost leak

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:23 pm

Yeah same thing happened here. I had a clamp strip too and was actually looking into constant torque clamps... But I found a good shape worm clamp hanging out and it worked great. T-bolts are big and take forever to tighten and take off. Plus if they are on something oval or at an angle they do not seal properly.

theColonel · Post by **theColonel** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:28 pm

TheRandom1 wrote:So now you're DDing an SRT and your toy is a swapped Neon? You're a sick sick man...

LowNSlow · Post by **LowNSlow** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:43 pm

T-Bolt clamp > Worm clamp

ANY day of the week.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:53 pm

God this yellow racecar gets HORRIBLE gas mileage

I have two CELs p0038 for the o2 sensor... well I look underneath and the connector for the down stream is hanging because the wideband is in its bunghole. I understand Stage 3 doesn't need that o2 sensor but it must still be there and plugged in.

The other one is something for the TIP sensor. It has some sort of 3 BAR TIP for S3. I haven't looked into the code too much yet.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 12:14 pm

Well I'm pretty sure I got the high idle issue fixed on the silver car! Last week or the week before I took the TB off and loosened the torx and readjusted the plate and tightened it back down so it didn't seem to be sticking anymore. I just drove it abut 11 miles today and didnt have any issues so I'm thinking that problem is solved!

On to the next thing...

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 4:31 pm

Mine is just hanging there too.
Hmmm quick search:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f24/try ... de-618520/
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f24/p00 ... or-618008/
Well the TIP is the throttle inlet pressure. The red and white vacuum lines work together. The whtie line needs to be hooked up. Verify you have the S3 white tip sensor that is attached my a tree in the fenderwell

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:37 pm

It does have the S3 TIP sensor says something about 3 BAR on it? (as well as the MAP). It doesn't look like a regular TIP so it must be S3.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 11:09 am

Yeah that is correct... S3 should not get bad gas mileage.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:24 pm

What kind of mileage do you get assuming you stay out of boost?

I'm not sure if something is screwed up with the fuel level sensor or what but when the pump clicks off, my gauge is not all the way to full. If I pump it some more and hope it shuts off the 2nd time it still doesn't show totally full... seems odd.

Either way the car is screwed up to some extend and needs some love. I need to go over all the vac lines and such and double check them. Is there a specific Mopar S3 wastegate? It's hard to find info about it. I posted a WTB thread on srtforums and a guy said he had one and it's adjustable... does this sound right?

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 1:04 pm

Lol. Ever since I installed the Walbro 255, I believe we didn't clock the canister right or something and it would not fully reach the F... But like a month or so ago, last time I filled it up with e85 it went past the F.. I was like

since I have been used to it not going to the F for 3 years. Maybe the sensor is starting to go bad.
If you stay out of boost you should get around 25-27 mpg city and highway. That is pretty much what I get. But its probably 75% highway. That was on 91 octane. e85 is crappy.. like 18mpgs.

Yes the Mopar S3 WGA is the factory WGA that came with the Mopar S3 setups. Have that guy on srtforums shoot you a picture... Yes they are adjustable. Oh an FYI my AGP S3 WGA. (The one you are currently running) is known to blow the diagphram.. Mine did and AGP fixed it for free. You can tell its bad if it leaks boost during a boost leak test. LMK how much he is asking for the WGA. I am sure theya re going to go up in price due to the rarity of them. I see them go for $60-$90 shipped.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 1:26 pm

He said $50, which seems pretty reasonable according to what you're saying. Here's his pic

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:28 pm

Hmmm could be a Stage 2 WGA.... They were adjustable too... Would have to see the bracket.

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 9:25 am

Your float on your fuel pump might be bad. With a Walbro on my FP Green I get 26-29mpg. I averaged 27.5mpg with the AC on driving down to VA and back.

As for the TIP sensor code: The red line needs to be hooked up to the cold side pipe, and the white line to the TIP sensor. A lot of people get hard pipes (the PO may have) and delete the red line, but on PCM controlled boost you need the red line or it throws the MAP/TIP correlation code. Many hard pipes don't even come with a nipple for it, but it's easy to weld one in and attach the line. I had that code for the longest time and had the idle issue/car driving itself issue, and that was finally what fixed it.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 10:25 am

There is a hard pipe i'll have to check for the line. I had to add a bung on my pipe on the other car as well

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 12:42 pm

LilSparkPlug wrote: I had that code for the longest time and had the idle issue/car driving itself issue, and that was finally what fixed it.

Just reread your post. I def have that problem haha

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 11:45 pm

It sucked bigtime it took me FOREVER to figure it out. To think it was a silly vacuum line all along, such a simple fix. Add a red-line and watch your issues go away.