2GN.ORG

I still know.

Fair enough, nannerpuss.



♥

I knows. Maybe.

I can tell you this... there is one person that knows the full details and they have not posted

I know MOST of the details. As much as said non-poster!


EDIT//


I can't hold it in. Ryan and I went halvsies on a wrecked SRT. I'm taking the drivetrain and 3 bolts from the rear bumper, and he's taking everything else so he can have 5x the poser status. Ah feels goot do get that off me chesties.

Bastid


EDIT::

YES. 2.4T Civic Swap.

I fucking hate both of you... Nothing can remain a surprise around here

heydockyle wrote:Bastid


EDIT::

YES. 2.4T Civic Swap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3ChFW7_ius

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AlX6HdtPR0

sidepipe87 wrote:I can tell you this... there is one person that knows the full details and they have not posted

sidepipe87 wrote:I fucking hate both of you... Nothing can remain a surprise around here

Are you talking about me?? lol.. And im keeping that a surprise till the day it comes to be..

Btw did you really both go halfs on an srt??

You're damn straight we did. It's halfway between us.... Phoenix. It was a steal! Front end smashed, cracked block, no usable parts, and we got it for $7400 w/ no wheels and we have a week to get it before they junk it for no refund

Adam's not telling any lies. It seemed like a great value!!

epic haha

have you managed to sell the red car yet?

No. The one buyer offered me $1800 and I told them no. They lived too close too and I don't want to have to see the car again and here about how I sold someone junk, yanno? It'll be back up for sale within the month some time if all goes as planned.



Also, I think my steering rack is going bad and that is where the pop/clunk is coming from. Either bad seals or something or the inner tie rods are shot. I added zerks to my balljoints greased them just to see and that didn't help any. So rack is my guess. Oh well.

oh well you wanna sell me the grill piece haha

I've been spending a little time and very little money preparing the red car for the next journey in it's life.

First I got Uriah's surfboard and bombed it Flame Red. I finally got some bolts for it the other day then went to town measuring where I wanted it to go then drilling and Dremeling part of the structure away so I could reach a socket in to tighten the bolt.








I started putting Dan's old SRT struts and my 03 SXT springs on the car because I think the 122k struts are about shot. I got two on the other day before the rust got the best of me and I ran into an issue and had to quit. I rebuilt the pass side rear drum too and replaced the drum with one from my 03 which was much less rusty.


I also touched up the huge scratches along the wheel wells on both sides with Flame Red paint. Doesn't look great, but it looks much better than before.

When I got the car it had some Honduh rot starting on the passenger side rocker where I guess my sister in law crashed into a curb or something and crushed the rocker in. I sanded it and bombed it Rustoleum Sunrise Red and that lasted me over the winter. The rust was just now starting to poke back through. I had Bondo filler and Bondoglass leftover so I decided to fix up the caved in rocker some.

I got out the angle grinder and started knocking the loose scaly rusty shit off the car.





When I got to the door there was a bubbled spot and I realized the steel was bad under the paint so I knocked the spot loose



After some self etching primer, I filled it with some Bondoglass to strengthen the area some then Bondo filler over that. The caved in area got a couple layers of Bondo to bring it back up flush somewhat.





Some filler primer and spot putty



It looked good enough at this point and I bombed the rocker with Sunrise Red since I ran out of Flame Red.





door is open here



I fixed a rust spot under the front door too



And painted it



All done. It's not perfect, but the car is now a decent 10 footer! I'm gonna wait til it dries then go in and wet sand the paint and try to blend it into the factory paint some.





Hopefully there's some added resale value in there.

Looks a lot better actually... A+

I like the surfboard wing on the 2GN car.

Thanks John

Yeah so do I Lane. I got it for $25 shipped so I figured I'd go for it. It spices up a plain 2gn nicely.

Here was my previous repair. You can see how bad it was caved in



And how it looked the day I bought it

Damn son. Why didn't we tackle the Honda rot?!

haha if I could weld I'd be all up on it! Although the bondoglass would do OK.. I think your Honduh rot was a bit too advanced... patch panels of noncancerous skin ftw.

Not a huge update, but a very important one for me and my sanity!

Well after searching and searching for possible causes of this noise I found it and wanted to let others know what I found in case someone searches like I did and finds this thread.

Initially I went back and checked everything I could think of... top strut mount nuts, knuckle nuts, coilover lock ring, lug nuts, long bolts through LCA since I had replaced the bushings two months earlier. Nothing was loose and nothing fixed the problem.

Searched some more and heard maybe CV joint but that didn't fit my noise and when I was hearing it. Thought the rack was perhaps going bad or was loose. I checked the bolts and none were loose. Another thread said the balljoints were making noise. I bought zerk fittings, replaced the stubs and greased the balljoints. Still the noise persisted.

I wiggled the wheel all around while the car was jacked up and the wheels didn't move at all indicting that the tie rod ends were not bad nor the balljoints.


Last night I was searching and came across a thread which referenced this SRTForums thread. I had installed ES bushings but the noise being described was similar.

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f163/in ... ndex4.html

This thread suggested checking the pinch nut that holds the balljoint in the knuckle. I know I had rechecked that but I figured it was worth a shot. I checked them this morning and torqued them with an impact wrench but they were tight and would not budge... Someone else in the same thread mentioned that it was the horizontal bolt that goes through the LCA.

I checked under the car and the ones on the driver's side (which is the side where I was hearing the most noise) had a mark around the bolt head which looked like it had moved at some point. I got out a 21mm socket and took a breaker bar to it and I was able to turn the bolt several fractions of a turn (due to the weird angle I had to approach it at). In full probably around a half a turn! It was tight, but clearly had no longer been fully torqued. I decided to remove the lower torque strut on the other side and check that bolt as well since I'd occasionally hear the noise over there but much less muted. I was also able to turn that bolt but VERY little at all. These bolts were initially torqued with the impact wrench as well... The noise started about two months after doing the LCA bushings so they wither backed off slightly, or the forces were now greater due to new bushings not moving added with the new coilovers.

I put the car all back together and took it for a test drive. Usually I'd back out of my driveway and turn the wheel right so I could go up my street. After I'd shift into D and turn the wheels left I'd hear a loud but muted crack/pop noise. This time I didn't hear it... It would do it as I turned right at the top of my street while accelerating hard, but it didn't do it. I went all around my neighborhood and didn't hear the noise once. The problem seems to be solved. I love simple solutions!

I feel sorry for the next person to buy that red car. should have coated the metal with at least some POR-15, to keep the rust from spreading, as it stands now the rust will be back and worse than ever before too long.

theTeejmiester wrote:I feel sorry for the next person to buy that red car. should have coated the metal with at least some POR-15, to keep the rust from spreading, as it stands now the rust will be back and worse than ever before too long.

GTFO dude... are you kidding me? This is a $2000 10 year old beater car... not a show winner. It's much better now than it was before. POR-15 isn't a miracle worker.. The etching primer will do enough to protect that bare metal. Where did you get your bodywork certification from anyway?

We're all certified. Shit Ryan, if I'd have known you coulda made something look that smooth we could have at least filled up my rust. I mean, I'm only doing it so that it WILL come back in a few months....preferrably worse than ever. EVAR.

FAC3L3SS wrote:

We're all certified. Shit Ryan, if I'd have known you coulda made something look that smooth we could have at least filled up my rust. I mean, I'm only doing it so that it WILL come back in a few months....preferrably worse than ever. EVAR.

It's like shaving. The first time you fix it, it comes back twice as bad.

Ryan the rust is going to spread like herps now..

The Herp!

Dun dun dun....

sidepipe87 wrote:

theTeejmiester wrote:I feel sorry for the next person to buy that red car. should have coated the metal with at least some POR-15, to keep the rust from spreading, as it stands now the rust will be back and worse than ever before too long.

GTFO dude... are you kidding me? This is a $2000 10 year old beater car... not a show winner. It's much better now than it was before. POR-15 isn't a miracle worker.. The etching primer will do enough to protect that bare metal. Where did you get your bodywork certification from anyway?

i have a 13 year old beater with just surface rust id be pissed to if someone just covered up a problem. Yes the etching primer will do somthing but it wont stop the spread

Don't buy my car then. It's a piece of shit just like yours... a beater. There is no "problem" other than cosmetics. It ran fine, didn't leak because of it and it wasn't falling off... This car will die from something else long before the rust repair I did creates a problem. Tell me what the solution is then? POR-15 isn't it. I didn't cover ANY rust. Can you assholes read? I ground it down to the bare metal and e-coated it... just like the factory does. WOW.

The problem is you used all 1k products, and if you knew anything about body work at all you would know that those products absorb moisture like a sponge, don't believe me then do a search. before you call names or call me out, make sure you know what you are talking about, a 1k duplicolor etch primer with the 1k lacquer highfill and cheap bondo brand filler is not going to protect anything. I know its a beater, but I believe that anything worth doing, is worth doing right. still don't believe me then go out there right now and take a rag full of lacquer thinner and wipe the paint off, if you can do that with just thinner then what did you protect?

Take some criticism Ryan, don't get so butthurt, isn't that what you would tell me? just trying to help you out bud

edit; if you have to use a rattle can go with this, pretty decent stuff from what I hear

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/spray-m ... 14526.aspx