2GN.ORG

Manny is sleeping. ill get back to you on the situation in the morning. lolz. yes i gotta fix my wiring. umm the stupid Advance auto closes like at 6 here for some reason. thats why they didnt answer earlier when i called during lunch. so in tha morning imma fix my wiring and if still doesnt work then ill go get the sensor from the advance because it says that my local store does have one in stock. so ill get back to u with what happens in the AM

alan1592 wrote:And yes the Cam Position Sensor will cause your multiple cylinder misfires since the car dosent know what cylinder to fire.

Incorrect. In the event of a missing cam signal, it switches to limp mode and runs the injectors batch fire instead of sequential fire. That doesn't cause misfires, or I would be in trouble since the vast majority of MS installs I do are batch fire.

It may have picked up that code because of fueling 270 cam degrees off one cylinder, but you won't know until the cmps is back up and running as it's supposed to. It's much more likely that it's switching back and forth between modes, or there is something else wrong.

Thanks for that Eric. good to hear you chime in every once & a while.


Morning update: just fixed the wires gonig to the cam sensor, yes i had the battery dissconnected for 10min, well turned her on and she started rite up and idled fine a lil high at 900rpm but i didnt seem to hear anything outta the ordinary. anyways shut it off after like 2 minutes of idling didnt do any revving up or anything did the key dance and she is still throwing the Cam sensor code but not the missfiring code. guess im off to the store here in a bit to pick up the sensor. oh and my P1187 code went away as well. something i didnt mention before because i dont think it has anything to do with car functioning but i am throwing a

P0517-BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR HIGH

&

P0073-AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR HIGH

i have no wire for me to be able to put my battery sensor into so i dont have a clue as to how to fix that code & yes my battery light is ON in the dash cluster and my ambient air temp sensor well im pretty sure that one is on because yesterday i noticed the wire had came loose at the clip so i just slid it back in there. when i install the cam sensor ill just grab the connector from my other wiring harness and see if it works and gets rid of that code.


Edited: so now more camshaft sensor code after sensor change, but i now have my P01187 code again and i havent taken it for a test drive yet but it seems like she still has a slight stumble because once i revv past 2500 rpm and try to get into 3000 rpm it feels like something is wrong.

It sounds like the SRT wiring harness you have is rather disastrous. If you don't go through with a fine toothed comb you're going to be fighting electrical gremlins for months to come. Wires shouldn't just fall out of clips. If the car the engine is from is an 03 you won't have a battery plug for the blankie (which is why you're throwing that code). That was only added in the 04/05 models IIRC. You could always get a pinout and run the wire properly to a blankie sensor (did your R/T have a blankie?)

Yes it did have a blankie but when i took the blankie off i just hooked the sensor back up and tucked it away and no code or light. Well that xplains it rite there in case i never mentioned it or some of you forgot im stage 1 so my ECU is from an 04 meaning the computer is looking for it. ahhh hell.

03/04 should have the plug for the blanket. 05 should not. Atleast that's how SXT's go, and my srt does not have the plug.

Damn you guys are on the forums at 6 in the morning jesus. You morning people amaze me. I could barely tell you who I was at 6 am.

I've seen a few 05s with the blankie so I don't know when they stopped it for sure. I know they'll trip battery lights without the blankie (at least my friend's 05 did). But if you have an 04 PCM, it's definitely a blankie-PCM. Your 03 SRT engine harness had no plug for it?

Nope. Not that I can see.


I hate this car. Before I installed the sensor my batery voltage was fine now my gauge is moving a lil at idle wich I'm sure is what's causing the incorrect voltage on sensors & when I go to take off she drives but then bogs down when I press the pedal down more to actually get going at a decent pace. I checked every wire & the ones I touched while changing the cam sensor. Nada.

Sooo... about ready to swap back to the R/T motor yet?

I was ready to do that a week after I started the stupid swap.

Neon4Life wrote:Thanks for that Eric. good to hear you chime in every once & a while.


Morning update: just fixed the wires gonig to the cam sensor, yes i had the battery dissconnected for 10min, well turned her on and she started rite up and idled fine a lil high at 900rpm but i didnt seem to hear anything outta the ordinary. anyways shut it off after like 2 minutes of idling didnt do any revving up or anything did the key dance and she is still throwing the Cam sensor code but not the missfiring code. guess im off to the store here in a bit to pick up the sensor. oh and my P1187 code went away as well. something i didnt mention before because i dont think it has anything to do with car functioning but i am throwing a

P0517-BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR HIGH

&

P0073-AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR HIGH

i have no wire for me to be able to put my battery sensor into so i dont have a clue as to how to fix that code & yes my battery light is ON in the dash cluster and my ambient air temp sensor well im pretty sure that one is on because yesterday i noticed the wire had came loose at the clip so i just slid it back in there. when i install the cam sensor ill just grab the connector from my other wiring harness and see if it works and gets rid of that code.


Edited: so now more camshaft sensor code after sensor change, but i now have my P01187 code again and i havent taken it for a test drive yet but it seems like she still has a slight stumble because once i revv past 2500 rpm and try to get into 3000 rpm it feels like something is wrong.

The battery temp sensor will affect the voltage regulator, making it likely charge at a slower pace than if it were working properly, but it won't make the car run bad. (In theory)

The high temp sensor is definitely an issue though, as it's one of the major variables in tuning fuel. The temperature of the air going in greatly determines the density of the charge, and therefore determines the fuel that should be injected.

As an example, in Grrtrude, I had a nice tune set up. One day, the air temp connector came loose, and then my MS was reading the temp as -40F. I could barely drive the car because the wideband was buried rich and was misfiring badly. The NGC has a wider range of adjustment than I had setup, so it would do it far less on a stock computer, but would be bad regardless.

Wow! So I almost had the car perfect.. drove to advance & back home & around town fine about 2 hours ago & now a few min ago drove it to work & pretty much limped all the way here. I was able to take off fine, but as soon as I got up in RPM to like let's say 2k & above the whole car would shake & sputter real bad. I wasn't throwing any codes until I parked the car here at work & the light came on. Idk what codes its throwing as I wasn't able to make it show me in the cluster. Ahhhhh!

Did you fix the AAT sensor? I really think you need a new engine harness out of an 04-05 SRT.....it will save you from hunting electrical gremlins which aren't nearly as cute as Gizmo was....

I'm willing to bet you still have a wiring issuse. It would explain the intermittent poor running.

Yes Crystal I did fix the AAT sensor.


The only codes I'm showing now is still 1187 & the battery one. That's it.

p1187 is not EOT sensor circuit low like you think.. its actually map/tip correlation on our cars. its more than likely because your pulling more than 10% or so of fuel at idle rpm(1500 and below). do you have a return line?

Something I found on srtforums. Disregard the pulling fuel part I would assume. Possible problem with map/tip wiring or sensor?

Upon looking up the P1187 code I came across 3 different code descriptions (all 3 showing up for srt4's):

-EOT (engine oil temp) sensor low voltage
-Oxygen sensor heater circuit short - upstream
-MAP/TIP correlation

P0068 is actually the map/tip correlation code. If it's the upstream 02 sensor that's why the car would be acting all tarded.

What o2 sensors are you running Manny? SRT or RT?

seems to be commonly associated with over boost but swap your 02 sensors with srt ones (or get new one) see if that fixes it

Wow so i just had the worst drive home, had to have someone follow me home from work cause i wasnt able to get it past 2500 rpm, i kept having to shift at like 2000 rpm till i got to speed limit, car ran like straight up crap as compared to when i drove into work. on the way home i wasnt even throwing any codes wich made it even more weirder, to better xplain whats happening go out to your car, put it in first gear and let off the clutch without giving it gas.. then the car start to bogg and shake rite.. yeah well thats what mine feels like a few seconds after taking off. it also feels like its missfiring or like maybe im not getting enough fuel but then again im just going nuts rite now trying to figure out whats going on.


For future reference i got all srt4 stuff on this engine no 2.0 parts were used here.

JeffM wrote: Upon looking up the P1187 code I came across 3 different code descriptions (all 3 showing up for srt4's):

-EOT (engine oil temp) sensor low voltage
-Oxygen sensor heater circuit short - upstream
-MAP/TIP correlation

This makes me think of maybe im having a oil pressure problem. idk. but look.. what do u think about this..


http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f25/cod ... ix-563530/

It wouldn't/shouldn't bog like that though if it was your EOT....

Check your upstream O2 connections, Manny. Learning from your CPS wiring, it's a possibility you have another bad wire, or the sensor isn't plugged in correctly, or it's a completely fubar'd O2 sensor all together. Not having proper upstream O2 readings would hinder performance pretty significantly, considering we use narrowbands as our upstreams and the PCM is constantly correcting inorder to meet a certain AFR and torque band.

Also, I'm not sure if this would work for neons, but hooking up a code scanner that can read PCM live data could help in telling if the EOT sensor is bad. Just as you can read coolant temp and ambient temp.

Yeah I know what you mean about the EOT sensor.

Well I'm going to pull out the o2 sensor & see what it looks like & I think I'm also going to pull the engine harness off to look at it & inspect ever inch of it just to make sure there isn't a split somewhere or maybe something making contact where it should be.

Wish I had a dsp so I could read live data.

Doesn't your friend have a dsp? Use that.

Also, check your spark plugs. Make sure they're srt ones also.

yes. forgot bout that.


& yes they are srt ones. ordered em from Modern.

Technically you don't even need a DSP. I used to use an old OBDII scanner that I bought off Ebay to check live data like throttle position, coolant temp, ambient, timing, etc.

But yes, check your harness. You should of done that before you put it in, goofball.

You can't use someone else's DSP unless it's unmarried from the car it belongs to. When unmarrying it, it erases all the information it has stored about that person's car, including the tunes.

An oil pressure sensor switch wouldn't cause your car to run the way it is. It would trigger the oil light and a CEL but it wouldn't make the car run the way you're describing. What you're describing is limp mode, I've driven a friends SRT in limp mode before when the SAFC all of a sudden decided to think the car had 10 cylinders instead of 4.

If you're using platnium or Iridium plugs get rid of them and put copper plugs in there. Make sure your plug wires are clipped properly onto the plugs (some styles of wire/plug don't make good contact). And again....re-check your wiring. You have that tach adapter thing in there, I'd get rid of it.

LilSparkPlug wrote:You can't use someone else's DSP unless it's unmarried from the car it belongs to. When unmarrying it, it erases all the information it has stored about that person's car, including the tunes.

Sorta right. But also wrong. He is only wanting to use it to monitor diagnostics. He can use any dsp to reset trouble codes and datalog.

Well i officially give up.

im going to see if i can find me a shop within range of here to have it towed too and just pay someone to fix it because i dont have any more patience to work on it nor am i going to spend anymore time working on it.