what size is it anyway?
Midnight_Rider's progress log
Swaybar looks great gramps, take a few hard corners off an exit ramp and let us know what you think of it 
what size is it anyway?
what size is it anyway?
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
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Midnight_Rider
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I don't know- it's the Mopar kit so one of our experts here on 2GN can probably answer your question.r/tguy02 wrote:what size is it anyway?
I'm going to stick with stock for now. I do know that all of the bushings underneath need to be replaced- this is one of my projects for this year.ejclide wrote:You gonna do prothanes?
Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon 'til It Dies" Club #10
i was going to suggest this earlier but the problem with that is, if hes getting these bushings done under warranty hes going to have to go with stock for now.ejclide wrote:You gonna do prothanes? You could be lazy like me and just buy the pre-done ones from modern....(I needed ball joints too, so it wasn't that bad)
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
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Midnight_Rider
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Looking good sir
Looking at the pictures you posted made me flash back to the ones I put up way back when.
I can't tell from the pictures...what hole in the rear bar did the tech attach the rear link to?
As far as the size, the rear is 19mm (2mm bigger than the stock SRT and the same as an ACR), but it is 3 way adjustable. The front is 24mm.
I can't tell from the pictures...what hole in the rear bar did the tech attach the rear link to?
As far as the size, the rear is 19mm (2mm bigger than the stock SRT and the same as an ACR), but it is 3 way adjustable. The front is 24mm.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...


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Midnight_Rider
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The Installation Notes said, "ALWAYS START WITH THE ADJUSTABLE LINK ON THE SOFTEST SETTING!" so that is where he set it. I'll leave it there for now and might change the setting in the future. How often do you lubricate your bushings? I called KW about this earlier today and was told that the brackets will also need lubrication with lithium grease. Another task for a tech when I have the car in for service.Danteneon wrote:I can't tell from the pictures...what hole in the rear bar did the tech attach the rear link to?
r/tguy02 wrote:what size is it anyway?
I knew that I could count on one of our experts for the answer to your question.Danteneon wrote:As far as the size, the rear is 19mm (2mm bigger than the stock SRT and the same as an ACR), but it is 3 way adjustable. The front is 24mm.
I appreciate everyone posting about problems with bolts snapping on them when working on sway bars- the timing couldn't have been more perfect since I had this install planned for some time now. I was able to order bolts to have on hand in case the tech had trouble with mine yesterday. Funny story (well, maybe not funny)- my dealership's parts counter told me that the rear sway bar U clamp bolts are discontinued and no longer available. I did some searching and found some at two dealerships (one in NY, the other in PA), just in time.
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Midnight_Rider
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you gotta be kidding me... for such a common bolt that brakes that is shitty news, guess its hardware store from now on for thoseMidnight_Rider wrote:my dealership's parts counter told me that the rear sway bar U clamp bolts are discontinued and no longer available. I did some searching and found some at two dealerships (one in NY, the other in PA), just in time.
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
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occasional demons
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Bah, they are way too long anyways. Get ones that are just long enough to clear the weld nut. Less rusted threads to try to get through. I used shorter stainless ones with anti seize.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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Midnight_Rider
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Midnight_Rider
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Midnight_Rider
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Midnight_Rider
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^^Thanks! I really wasn't planning on buying tires right now but now I can mark them off my list for prepping for Carlisle 2014. The next major expense will be brakes since, other than new rear brake pads a few years back, everything is original from the factory (and now at 66K miles).
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Midnight_Rider
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Went on a shopping spree.
1. P4510874 Titanium Strut Tower Brace (front);
2. P4510875 Titanium Strut Tower Brace (rear);
3. P4510826 Rear Tension Strut Kit;
4. P4510870 Rear Adjustable Control Arm (two sets- thanks to BRR for advising me to get two);
5. P4510478 Air Filter (so I can swap out the one that came with my CAI);
6. P5153376 Air Filter Service Kit.
I also got new DODGE and SRT-4 badges as the "chrome" on mine has started to peel off (thanks to iangully for reminding me that I had posted about this needing to be fixed way back in 2011
).
).
1. P4510874 Titanium Strut Tower Brace (front);
2. P4510875 Titanium Strut Tower Brace (rear);
3. P4510826 Rear Tension Strut Kit;
4. P4510870 Rear Adjustable Control Arm (two sets- thanks to BRR for advising me to get two);
5. P4510478 Air Filter (so I can swap out the one that came with my CAI);
6. P5153376 Air Filter Service Kit.
I also got new DODGE and SRT-4 badges as the "chrome" on mine has started to peel off (thanks to iangully for reminding me that I had posted about this needing to be fixed way back in 2011
Actually, prices weren't that bad, about $43 list for each. Hope to install the strut tower braces and change the CAI filter at chipdogg's meet this month. The rest will have to wait until I have the funds to have them installed at the dealership (labor is almost as much as the price for the parts!racer12306 wrote:Be prepared for wicked sticker shock on those badges.
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Midnight_Rider
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Midnight_Rider
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occasional demons
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Well that's why you go to meets, so the simpler stuff can be installed.
Even the tension struts could be done. Somehow, I don't see yours being horribly rusted in place.
The control arms might be pushing it. Plus you would then need to drive a ways for an alignment, so those probably wouldn't be the best thing to tackle at a 1 day meet.
Actually, the spare air filter could have been avoided. You could just clean the original when it is parked for the winter. It will have plenty of time to dry and be re oiled before you need to drive it again.
But then again, you can put the new one in and clean the original at your convenience. Although it probably hasn't seen nearly enough miles to even need cleaned.
Even the tension struts could be done. Somehow, I don't see yours being horribly rusted in place.
The control arms might be pushing it. Plus you would then need to drive a ways for an alignment, so those probably wouldn't be the best thing to tackle at a 1 day meet.
Actually, the spare air filter could have been avoided. You could just clean the original when it is parked for the winter. It will have plenty of time to dry and be re oiled before you need to drive it again.
But then again, you can put the new one in and clean the original at your convenience. Although it probably hasn't seen nearly enough miles to even need cleaned.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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theColonel
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occasional demons wrote:Actually, the spare air filter could have been avoided. You could just clean the original when it is parked for the winter. It will have plenty of time to dry and be re oiled before you need to drive it again.
But then again, you can put the new one in and clean the original at your convenience. Although it probably hasn't seen nearly enough miles to even need cleaned.
52 Chevrolet Styline Deluxe Sport Coupe
05 Dodge SRT-4
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05 Dodge SRT-4
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theColonel
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MyNeonSaysHi wrote:P4510874 Titanium Strut Tower Brace (front);
2. P4510875 Titanium Strut Tower Brace (rear);
Curious on how much you spent on those... They are listed $425+ each.Really not much benefit with a front strut brace.
52 Chevrolet Styline Deluxe Sport Coupe
05 Dodge SRT-4
Official "I'm gonna drive my Neon 'til it dies Club" Member 000079
05 Dodge SRT-4
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Midnight_Rider
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I got to thinking that, since we're going to change it next Saturday at chipdogg's meet, there might not be enough time for the original filter to dry out after cleaning it.occasional demons wrote:Actually, the spare air filter could have been avoided. You could just clean the original when it is parked for the winter. It will have plenty of time to dry and be re oiled before you need to drive it again.
Exactly.occasional demons wrote:...you can put the new one in and clean the original at your convenience.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/P4510874-New-OE ... 27cf328f22MyNeonSaysHi wrote:P4510874 Titanium Strut Tower Brace (front);
2. P4510875 Titanium Strut Tower Brace (rear);
Curious on how much you spent on those... They are listed $425+ each.
For the front brace, I had to go the Ebay route as Dealer Connect showed none in stock nationwide (even Modern Performance didn't have any when I called them, contrary to what their web site said
True, but they look cool.MyNeonSaysHi wrote:Really not much benefit with a front strut brace.
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Midnight_Rider
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New problem this afternoon- I stopped at the Coldwater, MI Walmart on the way home from our meet and found a small water puddle in my trunk from today's rain. Moisture is now getting in from both sides of the rear spoiler (previously, it was just on the driver's side) and it had run down over the weatherstripping and into the trunk. Thank goodness that I have the OEM Neon cargo mat- it contained the water so that my carpet didn't get wet. I'm hoping that a new weatherstrip will take care of this until I can get the funds to buy a new spoiler (the bolts on the factory one have rusted and I don't know if I can salvage them). At any rate, the washers around the spoiler bolts have pretty much disintegrated and it doesn't help that the dealership glued the spoiler on after removing it several years ago in an attempt to fix the water problem on the driver's side (I was told that this was on DCX's warranty instructions).
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- gtxtreme19
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Midnight_Rider
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Pretty sure the gaskets aren't to blame. The carpeted area underneath each taillight was dry and the there was an obvious track of water under the trunklid and over the weatherstrip just slightly right of dead center under the backlight. Also a track of water under the trunklid and over the weatherstrip just ahead both trunklid supports (not sure what to call these- the metal arms attached to the springs). Afraid to leave the car parked outside in the rain now. 
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Go this route.Midnight_Rider wrote:New problem this afternoon- I stopped at the Coldwater, MI Walmart on the way home from our meet and found a small water puddle in my trunk from today's rain. Moisture is now getting in from both sides of the rear spoiler (previously, it was just on the driver's side) and it had run down over the weatherstripping and into the trunk. Thank goodness that I have the OEM Neon cargo mat- it contained the water so that my carpet didn't get wet. I'm hoping that a new weatherstrip will take care of this until I can get the funds to buy a new spoiler (the bolts on the factory one have rusted and I don't know if I can salvage them). At any rate, the washers around the spoiler bolts have pretty much disintegrated and it doesn't help that the dealership glued the spoiler on after removing it several years ago in an attempt to fix the water problem on the driver's side (I was told that this was on DCX's warranty instructions).
http://special-carbonfiber.com/index.ph ... duct_id=68
Get this instead of a front strut brace.
Personally I would go with these strut bars:
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/cat ... ts_id=1211
Not much flex in our front towers like most cars I have read. I personally would not spend $380 on a Mopar front tower brace thats does little to nothing on a daily driver. The tri-points are an exception from what I have read. They do look good, but if you work on your car as much as I do, its a PITA to have to remove all the time when doing work on it.Please explain this
08 Acura TL-S
05 Neon SRT-4
