quicksilvr's 2001 R/T
- D-Railed_Neon
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Heya man, great to see that car made it here. Been wanting to buy it myself for a while, so take good care of her!! lol.
The car looks super clean and I am a little jelly. Have some fun with it as those R/t s can scoot! Feel free to hit me up if you ever need parts or a hand. I work at the autozone in bellevue so stop by sometime, and welcome to 2GN
The car looks super clean and I am a little jelly. Have some fun with it as those R/t s can scoot! Feel free to hit me up if you ever need parts or a hand. I work at the autozone in bellevue so stop by sometime, and welcome to 2GN
MY PROJECT LOG My Old 2002 ES AND My 2003 SXT
It is not that we cannot be friends, it's that you are a zombie, and I am almost out of ammo. -Someone
It is not that we cannot be friends, it's that you are a zombie, and I am almost out of ammo. -Someone
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Or if you want to merge the two, we can do that too.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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We were able to install the rear end portions of the Prothane kit last weekend including end links, sway bar bushing, knuckle and tension strut bushings. Even being careful, we had some bad luck when three sway bar bolts sheared off the head. It added a little bit of time to drill out the bolts and tap new holes.
I'll need to replace the struts and springs to feel the complete impact as they clunk around something fierce.
The left rear rotor had several deep gouge marks so it's probably time for some Mopar replacements.
The week before, we replaced the power steering pressure hose and tensioner pulley. The p/s hose was leaking at a connection. The pulley had some raised grooves and thought it was digging into the smooth side of the belt causing some squealing noises at times.
I'll need to replace the struts and springs to feel the complete impact as they clunk around something fierce.
The left rear rotor had several deep gouge marks so it's probably time for some Mopar replacements.
The week before, we replaced the power steering pressure hose and tensioner pulley. The p/s hose was leaking at a connection. The pulley had some raised grooves and thought it was digging into the smooth side of the belt causing some squealing noises at times.
- 2005.Neon.SXT
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- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Location: Kansas
It's been a bit hectic lately and I'm very delayed in posting updates.
I think we finally have the horn performance resolved. We tore into the assembly testing the conductivity of the clockspring and steering wheel switch. Both tested out fine as we traced the issue to inconsistent grounding in the steering column.
During the spring, I went over the car with a clay bar and buffed most areas with a compound and finishing polish using a DA polisher before applying the wax coat by hand. There are a few small chips on the hood I'd like to touch up and thinking about trying Dr Colorchip's repair system. If it sounds like a good product, we'll try it on the wife's car first and consider it on the job training.
Right now, I'm repairing two rusted areas on the passenger rear quarter and hope to have pics up soon.
I'm still indecisive over strut replacement options. That's very generous of you MyNeonSaysHi.
I think we finally have the horn performance resolved. We tore into the assembly testing the conductivity of the clockspring and steering wheel switch. Both tested out fine as we traced the issue to inconsistent grounding in the steering column.
During the spring, I went over the car with a clay bar and buffed most areas with a compound and finishing polish using a DA polisher before applying the wax coat by hand. There are a few small chips on the hood I'd like to touch up and thinking about trying Dr Colorchip's repair system. If it sounds like a good product, we'll try it on the wife's car first and consider it on the job training.
Right now, I'm repairing two rusted areas on the passenger rear quarter and hope to have pics up soon.
I'm still indecisive over strut replacement options. That's very generous of you MyNeonSaysHi.
Last edited by Artes340 on Tue Jul 02, 2013 8:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- MyNeonSaysHi
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The past two Saturdays, we replaced the following suspension items on the front driver and passenger side:
Control arm ball joints
Control arm bushings with prothane bushings
Stabilizer bar links with prothane links
New strut top mounts, jounce bumpers and boots on low mileage struts
Greased the ball joint and tie rod fittings using a grease gun
Probably should replace the front rotors and front stabilizer bar cushions. It's crazy the prothane kit included two or three front stabilizer bar cushions, but none are sized to the R/T bar.
Control arm ball joints
Control arm bushings with prothane bushings
Stabilizer bar links with prothane links
New strut top mounts, jounce bumpers and boots on low mileage struts
Greased the ball joint and tie rod fittings using a grease gun
Probably should replace the front rotors and front stabilizer bar cushions. It's crazy the prothane kit included two or three front stabilizer bar cushions, but none are sized to the R/T bar.
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Swapped low mileage struts with new top mounts on the front. Installed new struts and top mounts on the rear. The low mileage struts did not have a sway bar tab for the rear application.
Noticed two of the four fasteners holding the rear wing were rusting; one very badly. Better to tackle the issue now than later where it could rust through and break the bolts. Most likely, the rubber grommet had slipped or fasteners were pulled down too tight allowing water to the area. I removed the wing to address the rusting and glad it was cleaned up now. Purchased new free-spinning washer nuts that met specs from a local supply house who specializes in fasteners. For extra protection against water, I applied a thin circle of dum-dum around the bolts before fastening the wing to the trunk lid.
Finally decided to tear into the rear passenger door and figure out why the window would not roll down to it's standard location. A cable above the window crack sprung free from this retainer causing the window to press down on the cable and stop short. After setting back into it's home, the window works as it should.
What the retainer looks like inside the door.
The retainer location on the door.
I'm still slowly working on the rear fender rust. Body work is not my favorite thing.
The only suspension bushings left from the kit are for the lateral arms in the rear suspension. The fasteners will not budge with an impact and concerned about snapping the bolt if it's rusted to the housing. Thinking about cutting the bolt off and installing new bolts, nuts and washers with the bushing parts.
Noticed two of the four fasteners holding the rear wing were rusting; one very badly. Better to tackle the issue now than later where it could rust through and break the bolts. Most likely, the rubber grommet had slipped or fasteners were pulled down too tight allowing water to the area. I removed the wing to address the rusting and glad it was cleaned up now. Purchased new free-spinning washer nuts that met specs from a local supply house who specializes in fasteners. For extra protection against water, I applied a thin circle of dum-dum around the bolts before fastening the wing to the trunk lid.
Finally decided to tear into the rear passenger door and figure out why the window would not roll down to it's standard location. A cable above the window crack sprung free from this retainer causing the window to press down on the cable and stop short. After setting back into it's home, the window works as it should.
What the retainer looks like inside the door.
The retainer location on the door.
I'm still slowly working on the rear fender rust. Body work is not my favorite thing.
The only suspension bushings left from the kit are for the lateral arms in the rear suspension. The fasteners will not budge with an impact and concerned about snapping the bolt if it's rusted to the housing. Thinking about cutting the bolt off and installing new bolts, nuts and washers with the bushing parts.
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So, in an odd turn of events.......
...this is my car again.
Picking it up in Omaha
Uh oh, someone's about to fly by
Car is still pretty nice. It has more exterior war wounds, but is still pretty sharp. I will probably have someone do some PDR now that it's collected a fair share of dings and dents. The right rear dog leg and fender rust is growing, and I think the only fix is to cut it out and have new metal welded in.
It drives pretty nice too, but has some areas of improvement. For one, it's about 200hp down from where it needs to be.....oh wait.....
But seriously. It doesn't seem like the MTV on the intake is working anymore, the steering is loose (tie rods I think), and the cam sensor is leaking oil pretty good. All normal for the age and miles, and all fixable. Going to be a fun car to have around again.
PS. Getting out of the yellow car into this one is almost funny. I felt like I was driving an old corolla after driving the turbo car. Clutch is light, there's no power, and the suspension feels bleh. lol
...this is my car again.
Picking it up in Omaha
Uh oh, someone's about to fly by
Car is still pretty nice. It has more exterior war wounds, but is still pretty sharp. I will probably have someone do some PDR now that it's collected a fair share of dings and dents. The right rear dog leg and fender rust is growing, and I think the only fix is to cut it out and have new metal welded in.
It drives pretty nice too, but has some areas of improvement. For one, it's about 200hp down from where it needs to be.....oh wait.....
But seriously. It doesn't seem like the MTV on the intake is working anymore, the steering is loose (tie rods I think), and the cam sensor is leaking oil pretty good. All normal for the age and miles, and all fixable. Going to be a fun car to have around again.
PS. Getting out of the yellow car into this one is almost funny. I felt like I was driving an old corolla after driving the turbo car. Clutch is light, there's no power, and the suspension feels bleh. lol
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LOL at the height difference!
Glad you got it back!
Glad you got it back!
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Congrats on getting it back. I tried detailing it pretty good when I had it, but it didn't like the wax at all. I didn't add any dings from when I owned it. Looks like it needs a little TLC maintenance wise. Excited to see the progress of it again.It has more exterior war wounds, but is still pretty sharp. I will probably have someone do some PDR now that it's collected a fair share of dings and dents. The right rear dog leg and fender rust is growing, and I think the only fix is to cut it out and have new metal welded in.
But seriously. It doesn't seem like the MTV on the intake is working anymore, the steering is loose (tie rods I think), and the cam sensor is leaking oil pretty good. All normal for the age and miles, and all fixable. Going to be a fun car to have around again.
PS. Getting out of the yellow car into this one is almost funny. I felt like I was driving an old corolla after driving the turbo car. Clutch is light, there's no power, and the suspension feels bleh. lol
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
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The left outer tie rod end is loosey Goosey, I picked up a new one today. I'm thinking about selling the tires on eBay while they are still thick, and getting some Dunlop Direzza DZ102's, in 205/50. Then I can lower it on Raceland's.
It drives great other than the tie rod and the intake actuator not seeming to work. I may have to dig into that this weekend.
It drives great other than the tie rod and the intake actuator not seeming to work. I may have to dig into that this weekend.
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Gotta do something about that ugly red battery. Anyone ever painted a battery top before??
Also: has anyone had experience fixing the tachometer to not be "jerky"? The speedo is perfect, but the tach moves with a jerk, like its getting sticky and the needle can't move freely anymore...
Also: has anyone had experience fixing the tachometer to not be "jerky"? The speedo is perfect, but the tach moves with a jerk, like its getting sticky and the needle can't move freely anymore...
Last edited by quicksilvr on Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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What type of battery? If it is a lead/acid liquid, and not a Gel or AGM, I don't see paint holding up even if you get it clean enough. It might turn out looking worse that it was.
Not sure about the Tach. Could be the motor, or maybe the board? Not sure if the PCM would send a choppy signal. You could try swapping clusters to see if it changes. At least you would know if it was in the cluster, or elsewhere.
Is this the Yellow, or the black car? If it is the Yellow, it probably doesn't like the newer rate of movement.
Edit: I now recall the tach being jerky in my Sundance(s). It was always the tach driver board on the back of the cluster. I could swap one from another cluster, and it would be fine for a few years. Unfortunately, there is no seperate board for a neon cluster.
Not sure about the Tach. Could be the motor, or maybe the board? Not sure if the PCM would send a choppy signal. You could try swapping clusters to see if it changes. At least you would know if it was in the cluster, or elsewhere.
Is this the Yellow, or the black car? If it is the Yellow, it probably doesn't like the newer rate of movement.
Edit: I now recall the tach being jerky in my Sundance(s). It was always the tach driver board on the back of the cluster. I could swap one from another cluster, and it would be fine for a few years. Unfortunately, there is no seperate board for a neon cluster.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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It's a regular AutoZone battery....I got the picture to post. I may try spraying the top with black plastidip....that way if it doesn't like it, I can peel it off.
I do have an extra white face cluster, but I don't want to swap the whole thing. The tach needle just doesn't swing smoothly....it's accurate once you hold the rpm anywhere for a second, but on it's way there it hangs and jerks.
I do have an extra white face cluster, but I don't want to swap the whole thing. The tach needle just doesn't swing smoothly....it's accurate once you hold the rpm anywhere for a second, but on it's way there it hangs and jerks.