Out of Gas - Hurst Equipped

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 4:07 am

Tomorrow's the big day!
Getting started first thing in the morning.
After coffee and eggs of course.

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:46 am

Didn't get as much done today as i'd hoped for. I've never pulled an engine and i'm doing this 95% on my own. And I kinda tend to get distracted easily >.>
Didn't start until noon. And I had to go inside and take a break every hour because of the heat x.x 112° this weekend

And then I had to wrap things up before 7:00 cause the weather was starting to get habooby.

Tomorrow morning I can finish removing the axles. Then the wiring harness and engine mounts. And then the engine comes out

LowNSlow · Post by **LowNSlow** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:29 pm

Meh, first time I removed the motor for the car, it took me a day to figure things out.

Second time, a couple hours max.

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:45 pm

Okay, good.
I thought I was doing it wrong. Everyone says you can do it in a couple hours and I was like "LIES?!"

Finally have it out though!

What a pain in the ass. Had the hoist mounted too close to the tranny I think...so it was hard to push the tranny DOWN. The fulcrum point was all wrong. Hopefully putting it back in will be easier.

Now I just have to remove the tranny and put the engine on a stand so I can start removing the head

JeffM · Post by **JeffM** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 8:19 pm

That's one ugly looking engine.

Good luck with tearing it apart.

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:04 pm

JeffM wrote:That's one ugly looking engine.

I was getting ready to say, "I think I see your problem!" but he said it best.

Too bad that engines don't run on beer- it would certainly be cheaper!

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 1:40 am

Midnight_Rider wrote:
JeffM wrote:That's one ugly looking engine.
I was getting ready to say, "I think I see your problem!" but he said it best. Too bad that engines don't run on beer- it would certainly be cheaper!

I'll stick a case of beer in the engine bay and call it good.

So my friend comes over to help me mount the engine to the engine stand, and tells me he has a load balancer >.<
Let me tell you, I will be using that thing when I put the engine back in. It would have been soooo helpful getting it out.

Which reminds me, where's the best place to hoist the engine from?
I connected the chain to the bracket on the driver side of the head, and to the passenger side of the exhaust manifold.
But I saw some other guy used the top motor mount as a chain mounting point...that way the back of the engine would dip down and make it easier to get the turbo under the cowl. Yes?

Cause I had a hell of a time not damaging the turbo or the cowl.

I'm done for a couple days. I smashed my index finger this evening, and it's hurting something fierce. Not to mention i've had a wicked cut on my ring finger that's never going to heal if I keep banging my hands around. I think the cut is just getting bigger XD
So i'm going to let my fingers heal before pulling the head.
I may have to wait until next weekend to pull the head.

What are those little bolts called that connect the clutch to the flywheel? I need some new ones cause I almost stripped the head of one of 'em x.x
Also, is there any way to take apart the clutch? Like, the clutch disk from the pressure plate? They looked riveted together O.o
The clutch looked good...but I dunno if I wanna trust it cause I sure as hell don't trust the previous owner. My friend said to just replace it...but that's quite a bit of money at the time being.

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 1:47 am

DetergentCandy wrote:The clutched looked good...but I dunno if I wanna trust it cause I sure as hell don't trust the previous owner.

Yeah, it's sad that things have worked out like this, considering how much you wanted an SRT. I have faith that, after you get this mess straightened out, you'll cherish the car even more.

Lantern04rt · Post by **Lantern04rt** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:04 am

Midnight_Rider wrote:
DetergentCandy wrote:The clutched looked good...but I dunno if I wanna trust it cause I sure as hell don't trust the previous owner.
Yeah, it's sad that things have worked out like this, considering how much you wanted an SRT. I have faith that, after you get this mess straightened out, you'll cherish the car even more.

I have to agree I'm sorry this happened dude but the car will be all yours when you are done and you will know it's done right.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:41 am

DetergentCandy wrote:What are those little bolts called that connect the clutch to the flywheel? I need some new ones cause I almost stripped the head of one of 'em x.x
There shouldn't be any bolts holding the flywheel to the clutch. Clutch to crank, yes. See next post.

Also, is there any way to take apart the clutch? Like, the clutch disk from the pressure plate? They looked riveted together O.o
The clutch looked good...but I dunno if I wanna trust it cause I sure as hell don't trust the previous owner. My friend said to just replace it...but that's quite a bit of money at the time being.
If the clutch is stock (or stock style) the clutch is modular, meaning that the pressure plate, flywheel, and disc is installed as one piece.

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:22 pm

Yes, that's my bad! It was late, and I was tired.
The flywheel is mounted to the ring gear yes?
What are those bolts called? The 4 little ones that are a bitch to get to.

Well, considering the clutch is modular, what do I look for to tell how warn one is? I'd like to replace it...but for $400 or so...that's a big replacement

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:30 pm

Those would be flywheel to drive plate bolts. Your local dealer can get those for you pretty cheap.

IIRC, there isn't a way to look into the clutch to determine wear. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I just replaced mine when it started shuddering and not holding very well

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:52 pm

Yes! Those. Thanks Dante

If a regular inspection of the clutch looks good...can I assume it's still fine? I didn't notice any problems when I was driving it. Seems to clutch fine and all that.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:53 pm

Eh, you should be fine. If for some reason the clutch needs to be changed after you put it all back together, at least you know how everything comes out

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:40 pm

Then hopefully I won't have to pull the whole engine just to replace the clutch!

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Wed Aug 31, 2011 3:21 am

Removed the turbo, exhaust manifold, and valve cover this evening. Tomorrow i'm going to try and get the head off.

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 1:43 am

UGH PLEASE

Went up to my parent's tonight to remove the harmonic balancer, but I don't have the right pulley puller >.< And neither do any of mah friends.

So i'm going to rent/buy one on Friday and finish removing the head this weekend.

ARGH.

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:34 am

Advance auto parts puller set is the best if you are going to rent one.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:47 am

Why do you have to get the pulley off to remove the head?

LowNSlow · Post by **LowNSlow** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 9:07 am

You shouldn't have to touch any pulleys to get the head off.

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 2:28 pm

I...don't know? O.o I thought that was part of the process to remove the cams/timing belt O:
Every how-to i've read is like "PULL HARMONIC BALANCER NAO PLZ"

Either way, it's not like it matters.
My father and neighbor removed it for me this morning XD
So...whatever. It's off now, and I didn't have to do it. I guess I could have just loosened the belt and pulled it out of the way, huh?
Well, eff me. One more thing I gotta put back on

So, all I have left is timing belt and cams. Not working on it today, so I should have the head off by tomorrow night

Then i'll finally know the verdict on Saturday.

srtjesse · Post by **srtjesse** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 2:39 pm

finish this car meow or ill drive to az and finish it for you mister lol

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:11 pm

You wanna finish it for me? By all means!
I'll have some beers while you're outside in 110 degrees

My Thursdays are always booked

So I wasn't expecting to do any more work until Friday anyways.
But it'll happening this weekend. I'm pulling that head and figuring out what the fuck is wrong with my piston.

I haven't driven my car in 2 weeks

So trust me, I want this finished more than anyone else

SC62391 · Post by **SC62391** » Fri Sep 02, 2011 3:41 am

DetergentCandy wrote: I haven't driven my car in 2 weeks
So trust me, I want this finished more than anyone else

I don't know about that....lol

I want to rude in a srt! I saw 2 today on the way to work!

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Fri Sep 02, 2011 1:58 pm

Tell me about it

There's two SRT's near my work that I pass almost every day >.<

srtjesse · Post by **srtjesse** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 3:03 am

i know about working in 115+ deg weather lol i grenated my transmission today so yaaaaay me i gotta swap transmission toorrow lol

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 2:54 pm

Hahah it's the worst! The heat just sucks your energy away.
Good luck on your swap, mang!

Pulled the head last night.

Eeeeew cylinder 1 valves looks sad

But why does #2 look shiny and wet? Shouldn't it be dry? The rest of the valves look like the one on the left there. They're clean...but still a little glossy.

Piston 1(the bad one)

Piston 2

Piston 3

Piston 4

Is this opposite day? Why does piston 1 look clean, and the rest of the pistons look like butthole?
The valves for piston 1 are gross. But the piston itself is clean.
The valves for pistons 2-4 are clean. But the pistons look like ass.
What the eff?
Could a fuel additive cause this? I did Seafoam the car about 100 miles ago. But I thought Seafoam was supposed to clear this shit up?
I had been running rich...could this be caused from that?

Also, cylinder walls look good so far. Glossy, but smooth. No gouging or scraping.

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:39 pm

2-4 look normal

1 looks like coolant/oil was in the combustion chamber.

Put the crank pulley bolt back in (NO PULLEY) and use a big wrench to turn the engine clocwise brining #1 to the top feel the piston top for oil or water if its wet chances are you have a headgasket issue

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:38 pm

Well...wouldn't say I have good news. But it's not exactly bad news.

Rich(neighbor mechanic guy) looked the engine over. There IS vertical scoring on the cylinder walls. He thinks it's too much to clean up with just honing and new rings.

So he's suggesting I bore 10 over to be absolutely sure.

The left is cylinder 1 with a bad ring from piston 1. The right is cyllinder 2 with a good ring.
Obvious difference.

Maybe it does only need new rings, but he's not a machinist. He thinks it needs to be bored. A race engine builder machinist guy has the tools to know for sure. So i'm going to take it to someone Rich suggested on Tuesday and see what the final verdict is.

I'm confused because I thought a compression and a leak down test is supposed to test for things like this.
Ring lands were fine. But it's obviously that the top compression ring is not. I didn't remove any other rings yet, because I found an obvious problem already.

How do I get good compression results, but still possibly need overboring?

Also, does anyone know how to remove that water pump hard tube? It feels like it's crimped in place O:

Taking the head to the speed shop as well so they can hot tank it and clean up the valves. Hopefully when this all goes back together(overbore or not), I'll have a fresh engine

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 9:51 am

Use a large socket inside the water pump housing to drive out the tube.

That ring looks like someone tried to file it to fit and made it too loose its done sometimes to reduce drag on N/A engines. Look at the edges of the ring gap for file marks.

Clean and dry the bores run your bare finger around the bore if it feels smooth a good hone should take care of anything I have yet to find a better way to check cylinder walls