D-Railed-updates 7/30

thomas_w · Post by **thomas_w** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:04 pm

Great, glad to hear it worked

But yeah, the projects never stop...

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:13 pm

Ain't that the truth! Next up I'm doing the whole damn exhaust. Gonna replace from the back of the head to the tips of her ass. Then .....profit! Lol thanks for the help and support guys!

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 1:11 am

And then it was so......

BLAM!

Decided to bite the bullet on this one and purchased one of those super ricey sounding all in one eGay kits for 240 Shipped to my office. I also bought one of the Vibrant J style oxygen sensor relocate with the adjustable tuning jet inserts so I would get no CELs as I am now catless. So far no problems there. Wasted not time getting it installed. Overall the sound isn't horrible. At idle it has a really aggresive sounding lope thanks to the Comp Cams Comp 400. Up top or under hard acceleration it actually sounds pretty good but, mid range right before normal shifts it sounds like your stereotypical fart cannon

Anyways, here is what she looks like installed and done.

BEFORE FLAMING YOU SHOULD KNOW that as you would expect with no cat and a 4.75" tip it looks and sounds like a giant bowl of rice BUT...It is stainless steel, mandrel bent, true 2.5" the whole way through, and DOESN'T rattle, leak, or rust. So I am moderately happy for the time being. I will be having a Moroso Spiral flow muffler welded up and the super lame ricer tip chopped off and replaced with something a little classier in the next couple of weeks. Getting rid of the long tube OBX header and replacing it with this shorty one did exactly what I was hoping for and neutered the car above 6500 RPM in exchange for giving my low end power back

I can now take off on a hill without having to raise to 2500 RPM and I can cruise in 5th gear at 65 and start pulling just by breathing on the accelerator where before unless I was doing damn near 80mph I would have to down shift to have any usable torque. So, I am happy about that.

Also addressed a few other small annoyances with the car. Started by replacing the 8000K Bi-Xenon HIDs in favor of some 4300K color ones. Much closer to true daylight and much less ricer-esque IMHO. Then I went on to assault the shifting feel of the car. I already had booger bushings in the shift cables and they worked fine enough but, the pedal still had a ton of slack in it and I am such a fan of billet aluminum I couldn't help myself so I upgraded every bushing in the shifting system I could. End result=Happy D-rail. Check it!

Rage-Tek billet clutch pedal pivot upgrade, billet cable bushings, and billet shifter base/cradle bushings and I have eliminated all slop in the shifting system. Pedal now has no play where as before I had almost a full inch and a half of travel before actual start of engagement throw. Now the pedal is nice and firm and super linear and smooth. I greased up the cable bushings and applied some new grease to the shiifter ball on my Hurst STS. It is now butter smooth and has a satisfying clunk into each gear. The base bushings give the whole assembly a very planted feel and with all of these tweaks working together, the car is now much more enjoyable to putt around town in. I actually love driving the old girl again.

Anyways, thats all I got for now. let me know what ya think and I am open to suggestions on what to tackle next. Thanks for the input and support guys.

P.S. The little one on the way we found out this week is a........BOY $\:D/$

ckrock946 · Post by **ckrock946** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 1:32 am

nany difference between the billet cable bushings and boogers?

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 1:36 am

to be completely honest...not much. Its a little firmer but just barely. They were like 17 bucks shipped so worth it as the old boogers were a "little" worn. These will never wear down. SOOO.....if you don't already have boogers or you do and they are worn it is worth it. If you have relatively new boogers it is a almost lateral movement. Only benefits over new boogers is the fact that these will never wear out and they have locking e-clips where as boogers are just friction locked into place. Cheaper and more reliable then booger brand bushings would be the biggest differences.

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 8:18 am

I used the the Tsudo exhaust years back on my first neon. It sounded...similar to the R/T I have now, maybe a bit deeper. It was welded pretty well and SS, so I just got a nicer muffler and had a shop weld it on. I'm with you in that it's worth the cost of just having the mandrel bent SS piping in there

Those slips look good on there. I always like the aggressive track-looking setup on the Neon without any lip kit.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:24 am

A Vibrant Ultra quiet resonator where the cat would be will help immensely with the rice rasp. Expect to pay ~$100 tho. It is fully SS, and won't rust.

You won't be weakening the mid pipe by having a heavier than the pipe removed muffler hanging in the middle either. Unless it is welded in, or good band clamps, it will want to sag.

I wonder how much those shifter bushings will corrode over time. Between the elements, dust, and metal to metal contact, they will wear eventually. You will need to keep them occasionally lubed.