Casper

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:51 pm

I'm betting the seller lied to you... I've yet to see a Syked PCM that did not have his Syked ECU sticker slapped on it...

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:55 pm

i dont think really anybody has heard back from kevin with the personal issues he has been having i live near him and i havent heard from him to finish the cal for my car and try and make it a "rt" so we can create a cal for that

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:30 pm

Bill you didn't buy it from Carlton Powers did you? He just posted on the org facebook page:

"Carlton C. Powers
Anyone out there have any issues with a Syked PCM ? Sold one a few months back and just got a paypal claim opened against m."

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:07 am

I'll just say this: I'm not mentioning names until it gets resolved either way. I think there was just crud on the pins that screwed up my connector sockets. I didn't have any issues until I plugged that PCM in. Now that I have re squeezed the sockets, and flushed them out, I am having zero codes, unless I disconnect something at the sensor.

This PCM was allegedly from the discounted $100 group buy, so IDK if Kevin put labels on those or not. I paid $50 over that amount, so it's about half of what you would pay for one from Modern. I had no problem with the seller making a $50 profit.

He did make a mention that his took a couple of weeks to adjust, but hard settings like a rev limiter should be there from day one. The rev limit may actually be 7800 RPM, but this thing just kind of soft dies at 6800,and then fades to 6000. It will fluctuate a bit, but that's about it. No codes whatsoever. I can plug in the original, and it zips up to 7200, and bonces off the limit.

Also sensors (Purge flow) that should have been switched off, should not be on the codes thrown, regardless of the PCM connection. What would be the difference if ti is unplugged at the PCM pin, or the sensor/solenoid?

Since I don't have a downstream o2, I can't verify the EGR. I would need to take it out in the salt to do that anyways.

In all, the seller should have tested each one he bought on his own car before re selling them, instead of putting total faith in the tune. I would want to know for sure that what I paid for was actually done, and be confident that what I was selling was as described. Now instead of two ppl's problem, it is three.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:09 pm

Since I had to replace a heater hose that burst on I71 last week, I figured I would snap some pics of what is entailed to use the Stratus heater hardlines on a 2.4 swap.

Luckily, I was able to find a PN for the hose I used from the donor engine to replace this thing. It appears to be a dealer item only hose. I found one on Ebay for about 50% less than dealer list.

This is the hose:

The hardlines on the front of the engine. They go around the rear pretty much like the 2.0 2gn lines. They will obstruct the EGR valve if equipped.

The 4596711AF hose installed to the hot side hardline:

Then you install this:

Here:

Attached to a connector tube to join the two together. Eventually I'll get a sender mounted into the Tee.

I have the PS reservoir off due to the O-ring leaking. That is going to be fun, the Mopar parts doesn't show the O-ring being sold separately. The parts stores don't seem to carry it either, and it isn't even included with a replacement reservoir.

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Mon Apr 28, 2014 11:17 pm

did you get the syked ecu sorted out?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Apr 29, 2014 3:29 pm

Basically, but I have not installed it yet. The car is running good again, so I haven't really been enthusiastic about changing that status.

It only took forever to get it returned, but it did make it back, and has a Skyked sticker on it.

Maybe once the weather gets decent enough to be potentially dicking around with PCM connector pins again I might install it to see what happens.

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:01 am

Awesome work so far Bill, now.......needs moar updates!! lol Really interested to see how the wiring went

Jean-Seb · Post by **Jean-Seb** » Tue Jun 24, 2014 2:01 pm

Great work !

This is so nice to see a former junkyard candidate getting soooo much love ! Keep it up !

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 6:33 pm

So I found this when I was checking oil the other day:

Looking around, the AZ cap I bought has been rubbing.

So I got an Ensamblado en México part, and replaced it.

blueneo03 · Post by **blueneo03** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 10:45 pm

OOO black rad cap where did you get that one?

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:33 pm

occasional demons wrote:...I got an Ensamblado en México part...

Confession: I just noticed that the OEM rad cap on my SRT came from there as well.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:40 am

blueneo03 wrote:OOO black rad cap where did you get that one?

.

Local dealer. Well Ebay actually.

Midnight_Rider wrote:
occasional demons wrote:...I got an Ensamblado en México part...

Confession: I just noticed that the OEM rad cap on my SRT came from there as well.

I knew I would get you on that one.

Edit: PN for cap: 4596198 since it is not clear in the pic... and there is no specific PN request for it, tho a search with that numbe does turn up two posts, well now 3...

Your engine is also made/assembled in the same place...

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 11:22 am

^^Yeah, that's what kept me from buying an SRT for the first two model years. I finally gave in after production ended- I just couldn't resist.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 1:26 pm

Midnight_Rider wrote:^^Yeah, that's what kept me from buying an SRT for the first two model years. I finally gave in after production ended- I just couldn't resist.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:26 pm

Made it about a mile on my way to work this morning, and the passenger rear must have had a brake shoe fall off the back plate. Limped it back home with the drum thumping each time the wheel made a revolution, shaking the entire car.

Oh well, what's another project...

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:17 pm

Yikes, not cool. In for carnage pictures. Maybe time for rear disc swap?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Oct 02, 2018 9:34 pm

MyNeonSaysHi wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:17 pm
In for carnage pictures.

So I pulled the drum, and the shoe linings fell out onto the floor. As bad as it shook the car, and the brake pedal bounced, I was expecting bent up parts at minimum. But it is pretty much just a case of slapping new brake shoes on there.

I guess 20 years, and 270,020 miles was their limit. "Nope, I ain't doing it any more!"

The part I like is the door tag still says "CHRYSLER CORPORATION", vs "DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION" like my '99 Jeep said.

on Flickr

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Tue Oct 02, 2018 10:35 pm

The parts were certainly built well, much beyond what would be considered their normal life. Glad to know that it is just a matter of new shoes!

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Oct 03, 2018 1:28 am

Original rear brakes!?!? No way @ 270k! lol. All the gunk on the wheel cylinder they might be. Looked similar to mine at 160k. I am sure mine were original too. But my shoes were fine.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 03, 2018 9:41 am

Rear brakes on these generally out live the car. My Dad's Omni had over 300,000 on the original shoes/drums, and they had more meat on them than those. He amassed the 300,000 in much less time than 20 years though, more like under 6 years. Mostly highway miles help too.

The average mileage on this one is 13,500 a year, so technically it is a "Low Mileage" car.

thomas_w · Post by **thomas_w** » Wed Oct 03, 2018 8:43 pm

These pads look like there is not much left. When I replaced mine at around 190-200K, they still had a bit left. I was just getting tired of the squealing when it was wet. I replaced the drum as well at the same time as they were not that expensive.

I have not double checked but I am pretty sure that my sticker says DaymlerChrysler on it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:06 pm

The drums look pretty good, so I may just have a clean up pass done, as long as they are in spec. It's about $90 to $100 for new ones, ( if I go 5273983AB MSRP $218 Mopar replacements) so If I can avoid spending that, being Christmas is coming up fast...

Ebay has cheaper oem options, but if it really comes down to it, I'll just cannibalize the '01, as I bought brand new Mopar drums for it, due to the original drums rotting out. I'm not going to use them on the Dark Jewel's body shell anyways.

Being it is practically against the garage wall on one side, moving it away is not something I really have the motivation to do, until I begin stripping it down to scrap the shell.

thomas_w · Post by **thomas_w** » Thu Oct 04, 2018 9:18 pm

Yes, my drums were getting close for some reason when I measured them. So I figured replacing them at the same time is a good idea. I am not sure quickly they wear. You would think slower than the pads. I hear you about the rotting. I even painted mine with caliper paint but that still did not last that long.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 08, 2018 11:36 am

So, I removed the driver side drum, and one of the shoes fell off when The drum cleared. At least it was semi consistent.

But with better light on the subject, both wheel cylinders were seeping, and the driver side began to get some fluid on the shoes, probably why they didn't bite hard enough to get ripped off the metal.

Of course the chepo AutoZone brake hoses were rusted solid at the tube nut, despite using antiseize on the tubing. And the other end, where the hard lines connect to the hose were rusted tight, that was using CU/NI line, and the factory tube nuts. I had to hacksaw the CU/NI lines off, to keep them from twisting into a pretzel.

So oem nut: 0 AZ: 0

I ordered some stainless tube nuts from Inline Tube. Fuck original, and AZ's tube nuts are even worse. At least the tube nuts on my neon were in better shape than the crap they used on my '99 XJ. Those were all vise grip material with in 10 years. But at least the hardlines were 80% still available from the dealer.

I would only recommend copper nickel if you use stainless tube nuts. While it is stronger than steel, it also is easier to bend and twist, probably why the rusting steel nut wouldn't let up it's hold on it.

Unfortunately there are little options as far as brake hoses. FCA has disco'ed the rear rubber lines. And I really don't want a rubber hose that is 20 years old, or older, new or not.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:54 pm

Backing plates are off, and soaking in acid...

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Oct 09, 2018 8:40 pm

IMAG0972 by occasional demons, on Flickr

IMAG0973 by occasional demons, on Flickr

Rusted before I could get them dry! But at least it was just light rust and easily wiped away.

IMAG0975 by occasional demons, on Flickr

A bit of rusty metal primer, and tomorrow will be appliance epoxy time.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:16 pm

Very nice. Freshen it up!

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:30 pm

And keeping them from rotting away, like the wife's Sundance's rear backing plates.They actually collapsed from the braking torque.

My only option to replace those was to buy an entire rear axle assy from a JY for $125. No one would sell just the backing plates.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Oct 12, 2018 10:59 am

Wow that is ridicoulous. Small enough to fit in a tool box? Just throw em in there and leave.

Did that with lots of odds and ends at the junkyard.

2GN.ORG

Casper

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