Casper

Do you have a project going or will you be starting a project here very soon and just want to keep a log of everything you and when? Share with everyone every step of the way what sort of progress you are making on your project.
occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Oct 05, 2012 1:54 pm

It's asceared you might sell it. :rofl:
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2001 Neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:25 pm

Knock Knock, who's there?

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About 0.070" rod bearing clearance, #4 that's who!

Apart from testing the valve seats seal, I have no clue why #1 had such crappy pressure. The piston was fully intact, the rings looked good, and the cylinder walls are all the same appearance. There are no visible obvious signs of why it was 70psi lower.


And a replacement connecting rod, crank, etc...
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This engine has a cranking compression pressure of 160 . 170 . 160 . 170 @Fifty ºF

So one would hope it just gets better at normal operating temps.

It was advertised as a '99, but it is a '96 from the PCM part number, and the connectors that came with the engine.

You just can't trust those Monroeville ppl anyways! :lol:
Bill
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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:26 pm

looks good! Monroeville where?
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:35 pm

Old Abers Creek Rd. - near Old Frankstown Rd.

Sadly I didn't have much time to arrange any kind of meet, and a good thing too. The guy was supposed to have the engine out of the car, but when we got there it was still in the car. I had to work the next day, left work at 3:30 pm to drive there, got there at around 6:30 pm and didn't get home until 12:30 am.

But in all it is a decent engine, idles a million times better than the old one, but haven't had a chance to actually road test it, but I don't think there will be any problems.
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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:28 pm

Nice. Wasn't sure if you meant PA. That's like 5 minutes from me.
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:45 pm

Filled some minor dents, and cracks in the paint.

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Currently working on the doors, and hinges...
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Midnight_Rider
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:57 am

That car sure is getting some lovin'! :love7:
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:51 pm

Love and Money. :lol:

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Canada
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Post by Canada » Sat Nov 17, 2012 7:45 am

So, I'm lazy. Is this for you or are you building this for someone else?

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Nov 17, 2012 11:54 am

Originally, it was going to be for Deb to drive.....


But since she is getting another car, it will be my daily until I get the '01 fixed.
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Canada
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Post by Canada » Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:24 pm

What'd you break on the '01 now?

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:54 pm

Canada wrote:What'd you break on the '01 now?
Low compression, smoke, slipping clutch, blah blah ....
_____________________________________________________

A little door hinge repair:


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Pry the push nut off
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Then tap the hinge pin out. It wasn't worn much.
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Using the old hinge pin, drive the old bushings out.
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Gently tap the new ones in.
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Lube the bushings, and drive the new pin into place.
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You may need to give it a squeeze to get the clip on.
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Then put your door back on.
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Of course on an assembled car, it would be "put the damn fender back on". :lol:
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:03 pm

New steering design...
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:rofl:

Enduring old war stories for a bit.
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Not even in the same ball park as perfect, but vastly improved.
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Tail lights
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Reverse
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Night shot
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Bill
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gtxtreme19
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Thu Dec 20, 2012 1:46 pm

Looking good, I'm not fond of the block color but to each their own. I've seen so many white coupes lately I'm beginning to want to paint mine.
-Mike
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:28 pm

Update: I have put about 200 miles on it. And of course the little stuff you don't get from running, but not actually driving it, will surface.

Got to freeze most of the day fixing an oil leak due to the crappy RTV job the reman head had on the replacement engine. They sealed the oil drains off on the end cap at the sprockets. It blew the exhaust cam seal out.

The tension spring was half way off, managed to get that back on, and the seal shoved back in place with the timing cover and gears intact. I wasn't about to pull all that, if I could get away with it.

Installed the 2.7 rockers and PT lifters from the other head while I was in there. They must have either totally pumped up being loose for a while, or totally bled out, because when I turned it over, there was no compression. No fire, nothing.

I was thinking fuck, the damn belt jumped time messing with the cams. Checked the timing, it was still spot on, the cams turned with the crank, etc.

I pulled the plugs, they were fuel soaked from the injectors, so that told me the Crank/CPS signal was ok. So I hooked the jumpers to the other neon, cranked it for a while, let it rest, cranked it some more. Reinstalled the plugs, and it fired right up.

Damn ghosts anyways. :lol:

Took it for a 30 minute drive, and so far it appears to be OK. No oil streaming down the block/timing cover, so hopefully the seal has/will settle back in completely.

Now just have to get the vibration from the clutch to go away, will probably have to pull it and use the factory centering hat. The one provided fit, but wasn't the snuggest thing in the world. Hopefully it is just the hat, and not the hole too big.

But that will wait until warmer weather, and I may just put the Shadow knuckles/halfshafts in while I am at it.
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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:18 am

whatre you doing with the old motor?
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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:18 am

It is in parts. Going to keep the head. The crank is toast. About the only things that might be re useable are the block and rods.
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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:09 pm

occasional demons wrote:It is in parts. Going to keep the head. The crank is toast. About the only things that might be re useable are the block and rods.
Damn, that's what I was after was the head ...( no homo intended lol )
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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
Leighvi424 wrote:omg cody i think u gave me a woodie :P
2004 dodge neon-300whp and counting

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:48 pm

Page two, post 56 is some of the work I put into the head. Figured I would keep it as a spare.
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Norse
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Post by Norse » Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:00 pm

Excellent work Sir! I'm very impressed on the attention to detail! :)

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:17 pm

Thanks! Really haven't done much lately, other than drive it.

Well I have put a 2gn steering wheel on it. Ended up with a Plymouth air bag, but still have to figure out why the air bag light is staying on. The connector was broken in the 1gn air bag, and the wheel was chewed up pretty badly.

Clock spring is good, it has power and ground to the module. I guess one of these days I'll have to pull the air bags back out and ohm out the wiring...
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MyNeonSaysHi
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:48 am

Where the hell have I been?! Seeing everything I missed out on...paint looks great, and car came together nicely :) Take cluster out remove light for airbag lol

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INVUJerry
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Post by INVUJerry » Sat Mar 09, 2013 10:42 am

Btw, 96-99 all use the same connectors for the PCM. The only difference is how the fan is turned on, it's only moving one wire on the connector to make it work.
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So many neons so little time.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:32 pm

A little update, and why you really should install a new rear main before the engine is installed....

So last friday I noticed a puddle of oil after backing the car up in the parking space, eh, I don't usually park there, but figure I'd take a look anyways, sure enough, it's mine...



So this is from just pulling it into the garage, and shutting it off.
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Oli was leaking from the full 360° of the bellhousing.
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Crappy underside shot
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Not a total loss, as I had to investigate the sloppy fitting center hat that the Banhoff clutch came with. Frickin thing vibrates pretty badly. So it had to come apart regardless.

Looks to be an original oil seal, has a Mopar pn on it. ~80,000 miles allegedly on the engine. The seal was getting pretty brittle and hard. Not why it was leaking tho. I gently pried it out by working it a little at a time on the outside edge, never touched the inside edge.

This is how it looks.
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Not sure why it wasn't pouring oil sooner. it looks like it had something pushed into it, flattening the bottom inside.

After putting the oem center into the clutch, it still vibrates, just changed it a little. I'm probably going to put the one that came with the car back in, and toss this POS in the trash if the vibration goes away.

The only other possibility I can think of, is the center in the crank is off. Probably not much chance of that, but it isn't like i was able to fire this thing up and test drive it when I bought it. I will know for sure when I get the other clutch back in.

It engages nicely, other than the vibrations, I really have no issues with the grip, or the feel. But holy shit the annoyance factor is enough to scrap the thing. Not to mention creating new rattles in the car each day.









OK, on to the good.

The neon DNA has been thinned a little.

A little test fitting...

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Yep, no more press in bearings for this ECTO 1 killer.

Comparison of the Shadow left side shaft vs the 1gn.
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Cleaned up, painted, and installed...
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Got it aligned, it seems to handle better, stops much better, very smooth, and much more braking control. Best part is the knuckles, and driver side shaft were free, I already had them, the calipers, rotors, and 2gn passenger side axle shaft were all cheap enough.

A very worthwhile mod: better suspension geometry, better brake options, I could have gone 11" brakes for the about the same $, but the 14" wheels would be out of the picture.

Pretty sure with 1gn coil over bottoms, this could very well work in a 2gn also. Better option than PT knuckles IMHO.
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theColonel
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Post by theColonel » Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:23 am

This is very impressive :thumbup:
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:53 am

My body wasn't thinking it was so awesome after getting the rear main fixed, and doing this in one weekend, but it will be very grateful if I ever need to replace a wheel bearing.
Bill
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:16 am

Nice work Bill! The added benifit of bolt on hubs is great too :thumbup:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Apr 14, 2013 3:03 pm

Well, the vibration has to be engine related, because swapping the clutches only changed the window of vibration. So it seems I am stuck with an unbalanced engine for a while. Pretty sad considering as bad as the "original" engine was, it was actually pretty smooth.

Unless this engine has been reman'ed sometime in it's past, DCX really missed the target on this one.
Bill
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Aug 04, 2013 3:18 pm

Vibration issue solved.

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Added Boogers since the console ones literally disintegrated.

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The latest issue, PS bracket: the PT one is a fail as shown on the Dot org, and MPX's is a fail with a 2gn pump assy.

Bolted on

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And not going to clear the core support

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Working on a solution....
Last edited by occasional demons on Fri Dec 05, 2014 11:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bill
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Midnight_Rider
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Sun Aug 04, 2013 10:43 pm

You'll have Casper up and running in time for the MI meet I hope... :shock:
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