2004 SX2.0 R/T...all painted...turbo next

Do you have a project going or will you be starting a project here very soon and just want to keep a log of everything you and when? Share with everyone every step of the way what sort of progress you are making on your project.
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Yellow04r/t
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2004 SX2.0 R/T...all painted...turbo next

Post by Yellow04r/t » Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:48 am

Well it's been a long 2 months without my girl but after all the work I finally got it back on the street. I started this project out with a messed synchro into 2nd and a broken to shit front bumper and well now it's like new again(almost lol) here's my pictures

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ghetto custom ram air
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dad making fun of my "little" car
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yellow calipers
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fiberglassed on the rear side and bondoed
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my pet duck lol
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primed
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my beast of a race quad 07 dvx400 tears like a raped ape
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back together and back on the street
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so its all back together, thought i had more pics of the tranny coming out though. anys still have and issue . in the parts car this didnt happen but now it does. while shifting to 5th it not really grinds but more a click . any ideas? clutch need adjusting? get some booger bushings in linkage? any other ideas? thanks guys hope you like my project!
Last edited by Yellow04r/t on Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:38 pm, edited 19 times in total.
2004 Solar Yellow Dodge Neon R/T
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NEON PARABOLA
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Post by NEON PARABOLA » Mon Aug 27, 2012 9:27 am

looks great, dump the "stars and bars" tho, looks tacky IMO
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Mon Aug 27, 2012 9:58 am

If you were from around here you would understand lol
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Post by sidepipe87 » Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:13 pm

NEON PARABOLA wrote:looks great, dump the "stars and bars" tho, looks tacky IMO
lol, that's what kills it for you? Not the body kit? stock height? 40 series tires? vinyl stickers? I think the emblem actually looks ok. Not a fan of body kits. I am a fan of solar yellow though.

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Post by Yellow04r/t » Mon Aug 27, 2012 1:12 pm

Apart from the yellow calipers, dodge decal on windshield and hard as fuck industries in the rear that's the way I bought the car. I wouldn't have even thought about it if it didn't have the body kit or rims lol not hating on anyone but I don't like the factory bumpers on these cars except maybe with a lip kit but still not as much as a body kit. The only down side to body kits is they don't fit like factory and around they tend to scrape on our towns sh!t @$$ streets!!!
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:07 pm

Well not saying all of this IS gonna happen but Id like it too! If I keep my car I've got plans for it! Well here's what I'd like to do
Comp 400 cam (gonna put in when I do my timing belt this winter)
Msd ignition coil
60mm throttle body
Port and polish intake (also this winter)
Header ( any advice on shorty, mid or long would be appreciated)
Possibly sell my body kit and replace it with viper kit from dura flex
Eyelids (custom making them this weekend[fiberglass])
Led Taillights and projector heads
Spyder 3 fiberglass hood
Granitelli plug wires
New release bearing lol (also likely this winter)
Any ideas????
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Post by chew* » Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:36 pm

Yellow04r/t wrote:Well not saying all of this IS gonna happen but Id like it too! If I keep my car I've got plans for it! Well here's what I'd like to do
Comp 400 cam (gonna put in when I do my timing belt this winter)
Msd ignition coil
60mm throttle body
Port and polish intake (also this winter)
Header ( any advice on shorty, mid or long would be appreciated)
Possibly sell my body kit and replace it with viper kit from dura flex
Eyelids (custom making them this weekend[fiberglass])
Led Taillights and projector heads
Spyder 3 fiberglass hood
Granitelli plug wires
New release bearing lol (also likely this winter)
Any ideas????
If using a new cam its like common law that you use all new parts that will come in contact with cams lobes as well as break it in properly.

If it's really an R/T it should already have a mid length header with a larger collector than is what is available aftermarket currently. I will leave the long tube discussion to those who have experience and have actually used them.

MSD ignition coils have a higher failure rate as do most high performance electrical parts. I've heard some granatellis die in a year as well....The stock OEM coil is more than sufficient for your plans.

Granatelli wires ehh your not boosting but they can't hurt as a maintenance item I guess..

You have an NGC car so a 60MM TB has probably an 80% chance of triggering a cell and a 5% chance of boosting HP making it likely a headache of a visual mod.

Body kits? Ehhh...no comment other than factory looks better 95% of time. In rare cases ( 5%) some people manage to pull aftermarket body kits off tastefully.

Release bearing? I assume throw out bearing....If you think it's bad or making noise that should be priority number 1 as nothing good can come to the transmission from prolonging changing it.
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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Post by Yellow04r/t » Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:50 pm

The car doesn't get driven much so I'm not to worried about and I'm wondering if it's even the bearing because it does every once in while? The bearing I'm talking about is the one on the fork in the bell housing for the clutch? Anyways though I probably should replace the wires this winter and the timing belt is a for sure just hit 97000 km on the car so just to be safe I'm gonna put a new one in and some how a couple hundred bucks might just disappear from my bank account, and a different cam might fall into the engine by accident lol ( girlfriend hates when I spend money on my second love xD) as far as exhaust I'll probably stick with the factory header then and delete the catilatic converter ( I like the factory r/t sound just not loud enough for this farm boy and dumped mid car no muffler is too fucking loud lol)
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Post by chew* » Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:11 am

Yellow04r/t wrote:The car doesn't get driven much so I'm not to worried about and I'm wondering if it's even the bearing because it does every once in while? The bearing I'm talking about is the one on the fork in the bell housing for the clutch? Anyways though I probably should replace the wires this winter and the timing belt is a for sure just hit 97000 km on the car so just to be safe I'm gonna put a new one in and some how a couple hundred bucks might just disappear from my bank account, and a different cam might fall into the engine by accident lol ( girlfriend hates when I spend money on my second love xD) as far as exhaust I'll probably stick with the factory header then and delete the catilatic converter ( I like the factory r/t sound just not loud enough for this farm boy and dumped mid car no muffler is too fucking loud lol)
Yep that would be the TOB ( throw out bearing ) and it's likely a tab has broken off on one side if the noise comes and goes which means it should be priority #1. $35 new at dealer for a TOB beats replacing a clutch or trans due to negligence of replacing a $35 part.

Once again I will say when using a new cam it's essential to change all parts riding on the lobes of cam and to break it in properly. Not doing so will be counter productive as the cam will wear prematurely which means you will have catastrophic failures down the road.

My 2c.

If buying a used cam it's a wise idea to request the rocker arms that were paired with cam.

Your probably going to want some better valve springs with a comp 400 as well.

You will probably blow out internals of R/T muffler if catless providing it's the original muffler that it left with from the assembly line and has never been replaced.
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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Post by Yellow04r/t » Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:24 am

You don't have to pull the tranny right? There should be enough room to just split it from the engine?
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Post by chew* » Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:31 am

Yellow04r/t wrote:You don't have to pull the tranny right? There should be enough room to just split it from the engine?
It's easier and safer to pull transmission which also allows you to inspect things like the shaft that TOB rides on which have been known to wear and which your going to want to grease a little.

Also just barely splitting it and reaching inside a "pinch point" is not something I would suggest. Can it be done? Yes. Should it? No. Not if you value your hands.
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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Post by Yellow04r/t » Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:33 am

Fuck I shoulda changed it when I swapped trannys oh well guess I'll split it again :( meh who needs hands!? Those are for normal people!
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:34 am

Well I'm taking the car for its last drive before winter. Taking it the farm for the winter, parking it. After harvest is over the tear down will begin. New timing belt, TOB, comp 400 cam possibly valve springs, paint the valve cover trim the injector cover port and polish intake, paint the intake (yellow?) fiberglass eyelids, srt door moldings, already got new tips on might throw a new muffler on it, booger bushings. Sounds like a fun winter this year!!!! :D gonna cancel te plates on it next week and I'll put the money from the refund into the car. Got a couple months left on them so should be around 150-200$ back :)
Last edited by Yellow04r/t on Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:18 pm

chew* wrote:
If using a new cam its like common law that you use all new parts that will come in contact with cams lobes as well as break it in properly.
Not so much with roller cams. the rollers aren't as picky about a wear pattern. It would get pretty expensive replacing all the rockers in an SOHC.
chew* wrote: If it's really an R/T it should already have a mid length header with a larger collector than is what is available aftermarket currently.
It is a shorty header. Same size collector as the manifold.
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Post by chew* » Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:10 pm

occasional demons wrote:
chew* wrote:
If using a new cam its like common law that you use all new parts that will come in contact with cams lobes as well as break it in properly.
Not so much with roller cams. the rollers aren't as picky about a wear pattern. It would get pretty expensive replacing all the rockers in an SOHC.
chew* wrote: If it's really an R/T it should already have a mid length header with a larger collector than is what is available aftermarket currently.
It is a shorty header. Same size collector as the manifold.
I'll tell my buddy who invested $6K into his stroked 454 thats it's fine to run used roller lifters in his engine then and that he wasted his money buying because they are roller lifters and they don't wear.

That should go over well ;)

How do you break in a cam with used lifters/rollers btw?

In the hi performance world the replacing of lifters is common practice when installing a new cam.....maybe not neon world but the rest of world.

$300 cam gets wiped out, possibly valve springs snap and a valve drops. I think all damage caused by any of that exceeds the $400 for new rockers which in our case house the lifters and rollers.
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:41 pm

Funny thing I as well as other's have replaced the cam only in our 2.0's and had zero issues for almost 100,000 miles. :roll:

Recommending someone spend $400 that they don't need to, is not cool.

This is not a chevy forum, so I could care if one takes a shit using advice from a neon forum. Your point is futile.

Neon cams do not need broken in, period. End of discussion.
A hydraulic cam and its associated valvetrain has different break-in procedures from regular roller cams and its associated valvetrain.
There's a reason.

Hydraulic and Solid cams (Flat tappet type) use hydraulic or solid lifters which need to rotate in their bores against the surface of the cam lobe. To do this, the lifters are machined ever so slightly concave. If the lifter does not rotate (as it goes up and down) then it destroys the cam and itself. You'd be correct if you said then that "the first 15-20 minutes of initial wear is very important in a newly rebuilt motor with a flat tappet cam and lifters." On initial startup, by spending 15-20 or so minutes at 2000-2500rpm you are establishing the lifter/cam wear pattern and trying to insure that the lifters do their rotating. Once again, if the lifters don't rotate and don't begin a proper cam mating pattern then your cam lobes will be ground flat.

As for roller cams, their lifters are not machined concave but rather have a roller wheel that mates or rolls along the outside of the cam lobe. This wheel substantially decreases friction and follows the cam lobe much more perfectly. Roller lifters do not need to establish a cam wear pattern and, unless installed improperly, do not rotate in their bore. Hence, many people will tell you that there is no break-in for a roller cam. Technically, they are correct.



Steve :-)
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Post by chew* » Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:51 am

Technically, they are correct.
Technically OJ didn't do it. <-- A perfect example of using that word.

Yes flat tappet cams need breaking in and oil containing zinc which is actually more important.

Thats neither here nor there. Even if you don't think that there needs to be a break in because the internet said so.....using parts with XXX miles and then wanting to stress them even harder is stupid period....I can't count how many threads i have read, busted valve spring or no compression after 30K on a "new build" etc etc etc then you go back and read the beginning of thread and it all makes sense...........Used parts....honing the cylinders with a crank installed........etc etc.

Is my advice expensive advice? Sure.....

There is no way in hell you can call it bad advice however.

Also highlighted for emphasis.....
has different break-in procedures from regular roller cams and its associated valvetrain.
So the info you quoted contradicts its self....

Nothing more to say other than chevy, neon or whatever......a roller cam is a roller cam, roller lifter, roller lifter + rocker.
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:17 am

Per the manufacture's instructions.
FSM wrote:INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the rocker arm for scoring, wear on the
roller or damage to the rocker arm (Fig. 26). Replace
as necessary.

(2) Check the location where the rocker arms
mount to the shafts for wear or damage. Replace if
damaged or worn.
(3) The rocker arm shaft is hollow and is used as a
lubrication oil duct. Check oil holes for clogging with
small wire, clean as required.
Note they don't tell you the cam, and the rest of the rockers need replaced too.

The biggest problem with used rockers on the SOHC is the plastic swivel clip, not the rollers wearing the cam. So making sure all the clips are intact is the most important thing to check. I have read more threads on the swivel missing, than cams being wiped out on this forum.


But I am done cluttering up this PL.
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:28 am

occasional demons wrote:Per the manufacture's instructions.
FSM wrote:INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the rocker arm for scoring, wear on the
roller or damage to the rocker arm (Fig. 26). Replace
as necessary.

(2) Check the location where the rocker arms
mount to the shafts for wear or damage. Replace if
damaged or worn.
(3) The rocker arm shaft is hollow and is used as a
lubrication oil duct. Check oil holes for clogging with
small wire, clean as required.
Note they don't tell you the cam, and the rest of the rockers need replaced too.

The biggest problem with used rockers on the SOHC is the plastic swivel clip, not the rollers wearing the cam. So making sure all the clips are intact is the most important thing to check. I have read more threads on the swivel missing, than cams being wiped out on this forum.


But I am done cluttering up this PL.
:thumbup:
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:09 pm

Well back to the bearing issue. I hate to say this but I may wrong I think this noise I'm hearing is not the TOB dad claims to have "checked it out" before te car went back together and figured it was all good and another thing is that it didn't make this noise in either car before the swap and now when it does do it it was immediately after the swap and only in 1st and 2nd gear (from what I can hear) so instill not driving it for the time being and I'm gonna crawl under it and see if I can see anything loose that maybe be vibrating, that's just my thoughts I'm may be / likely am wrong though lol any feed back will be appreciated thanks!!



Just stripped all these goodies outa the parts car
Image
Test subjects-
Tinted tails
Vinyl die stuff for all 6 pillars
Black headliner
See if the black circles are removable from the gauge cluster paint them yellow
Paint mirrors yellow
Cut out and aluminum mess the defrost vent in dash
Anyways though I'm pumped for this winter.
Just ordered boogers, timing belt / tensioner, TOB and waiting to order cam, and halos.

Gunna steal the buckets outa the parts car for the 1950 mercury hotrod project too. Flat black, lowered, and Cragar ss rims.
Here's how it sits ( long ways to go)
Image
Last edited by Yellow04r/t on Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:14 am

Here's another question ( some day ill at least be half as smart as you guys haha) could the TOB also be the cause of my fifth gear grind ( more of a click into it not a grind) cause I can't figure out why it didn't do it in the old car and now it "clicks" into fifth and is making vibrating noise on and off in the mid-high rpm in 1st and 2nd ( TOB going..ps. Fucking 70$ at the dealer ship effing souped me on that)

New paint!
Image

Finally making back out to the farm today, gonna put my yellow cluster rings in the dash and that'll prolly be it. Tails are getting tinted, and prolly order the cam next week (finger crossed on funds lol )
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Mon Oct 15, 2012 10:21 pm

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Post by Yellow04r/t » Wed Oct 24, 2012 11:08 pm

Well decided against the cam for awhile but..This is getting put in the mail tomorrow I'd imagine (ebay) 130$ shipped
Image

Did this today.
Image
Last edited by Yellow04r/t on Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by BlackRT? » Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:22 am

should of bought a used cam instead of that muffler crap
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:58 pm

Image
Got the go ahead for the cam from the woman but I gotta wait until after Christmas!
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Mon Dec 10, 2012 12:28 am

Got this for the injector cover (maybe?) (btw its black) unless I spot a better place under the hood.
Image
Plus a new dc logo for the trunk. Old one is peeling around key hole. Gonna fill the groove with something before I put the new one on but still have the key hole functional/ accesable.

Underglow is on it way along with some nightshades( couldn't find it ANYWHERE) and then the comp 400 should be ordered by Christmas !! :D!!
What's next guys?? I don't know what what to put into my car? I want some more get up and go I've pretty much decided not to go turbo but maybe a small shot of nos in the future. Any insight??
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:21 pm

Underglow is here. Car is outa the one shop and into the heated one now need a new battery old one is dead and froze. Good thing I have a spare from the parts car.

Here's a video of the noise my car makes not sure if you'll here it but I just don't wanna tear the whole car down again and still have the noise lol http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBiswoErdo
Last edited by Yellow04r/t on Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by ThatKevin » Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:45 pm

Yellow04r/t wrote:Underglow is here.
I'm sorry to hear that :banghead:
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Post by Yellow04r/t » Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:24 pm

ThatKevin wrote:
Yellow04r/t wrote:Underglow is here.
I'm sorry to hear that :banghead:
Lol! whatever!! hahaha Might end up putting under the dash though hahaha
After the cam comes this
https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/cart.aspx
And then this
http://www.gunlistings.org/uploads/l1_r ... _57012.jpg
And lastly for this winter
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/200803136423?red ... 2133wt_922
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Post by chew* » Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:43 am

I want some more get up and go I've pretty much decided not to go turbo but maybe a small shot of nos in the future. Any insight??
You might get a more receptive response if you said a 50 shot or a shot of n2o.

No one puts a shot of nos into there car. ;)
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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