--Project -- Flippin Roadkill -- SXTeve

FormerlyREDRT_98 · Post by **FormerlyREDRT_98** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 8:29 am

I have rust to repair on my rocker panel directly under the driver door...and both quarter panels. Having never done any body work, I'd prefer to find someone to do those for me, but I can't afford to

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:59 pm

I finally installed the shaved trunk lid that I have worked all week making. Kinda sad. It takes my 4 times as long as everyone else to do because I dont know what i'm doing. I think I primered it 4 times. Everytime I primered it I found another defect. Then I finally painted it... blue.. and it was just not a good enough match, so I just went with flat black. It will look a little better if I ever get my tinted LED tails. My wife likes the shaved look, but she thinks I should put back on the spoiler. Besides, she's a ford girl... mustang at that.... so.... her opinion doesn't matter (shhhh dont tell her i said that) If I did, it would be the SRT4. But i kinda like the look. PVO would be ideal.

The blue i had and the blue of my car didnt match so i just painted it black till i get the right color

gtxtreme19 · Post by **gtxtreme19** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 8:09 pm

Looks good, I vote wing off. Duplicolor color match paint is awesome.

Boosted22sxt · Post by **Boosted22sxt** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:24 pm

Wet sand wet sand wet sand... prime.... wet sand... and repeat process until its straight and baby ass smooth... then use a primer sealer then apply the base.

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:48 am

Yeah. I haven't gotten to wet sand yet. But I did the fifteen layers deep of other paints LOL.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 12:21 pm

I think he meant wet sand between primer coats. With rattle cans you got to put it on a bit heavy, and sand half of it off to get it smooth, due to the relatively narrow spray pattern. I like to use two different colors every other coat to help find the lows and high spots.

All that sanding makes good practice, but takes a while. It is why I could never do a DD, I would take way too long. A project car doesn't need to be to a certain point before you can drive it to work the next day.

That, and primer can absorb things you really don't want it absorbing...

It is the difference of doing it for a living, and having the proper tools, and doing it once every 6 months/longer, and not having the equipment.

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:02 pm

Well after ever crappy paint coat i did wet sand it.
Example below.

I just havent gotten around to wet sand the black. I will this weekend. But another topic arises.

My Oil pressure sending unit is going bad.???? I have a hard time believeing that, so I bought a mechanical oil pressure guage. As I was ready to install... I realized that the guage I bought pretty much takes the place of the sending unit I had. The sending unit does not actually controll the pressure, Its merely a guage? If that is the case than I have a larger problem (probably the valve cover gasket ... easy fix.) This gauge is a replacement to the oil pressure sendng unit.... at least that is The way its drawn up in the directions to install.
I've heard also that i should get a "T" adapter. I have to ask, why?. If i can tell what oil pressure is good or bad with an after market guage ... Why do i need one? Or does the lack of the stock oil pressure sending unit throw a code? I would like to add, that I was under the impression i was buying an electrical OP guage. Apparently not.

The other problem is they gave me a nylon tube. I was thinking about wrapping it in some heat wrap stuff. I do not trust the nylon tubing. Looks like it would make a better air line rather than an oil line. I'm definatly not flopping the $ for a copper tube.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:45 am

Yes you will have a code on 2003 up for no oil pressure signal.

Most full sweep gauges are mechanical. Unless you are paying ~$200 for an electric gauge, they are usually a 90º sweep. I would see if you can exchange it.

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 5:36 am

That's bad news. Will that code fail me at E check? More than likely i'll send it back anyways.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:41 am

P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction

If it is an "M" code, it will light the CEL, which will fail you.

So yeah, you need a tee to keep the oem switch, and use a gauge.

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:19 am

Alright. Thanks. I'm almost thinking about using copper tubing or even brake line (if I can) and run a T between the block and the sending unit. But I am looking for an electric gauge as well. If I want a full sweep... they get pricey.

gtxtreme19 · Post by **gtxtreme19** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:36 am

Actually aside from heat, that nylon GENERALLY has a higher burst rating than the copper. Getting the ferrules to sinch down on the nylon is usually a bitch though, plus the heat. If you do use the copper make sure to leave enough extra to accommodate any flex you get from your engine

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:55 am

From my experiences, I would stick to a solid tee to the block, or go with AN fittings, and braided steel brake line from the block to a manifold block.

nerox · Post by **nerox** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 3:16 pm

Cubby hole next to ciggy lighter ? ... wheres your TRAC switch??

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 4:06 pm

Forgivemy ignorance but what is a track switch?

nerox · Post by **nerox** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 4:18 pm

Traction Control

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 4:23 pm

I don t have traction control ... weird

FormerlyREDRT_98 · Post by **FormerlyREDRT_98** » Tue Apr 09, 2013 6:52 pm

I had a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my R/T. When I installed it I put a T in so I could run the line and still use the sending unit for the computer

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 8:15 am

FormerlyREDRT_98 wrote:I had a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my R/T. When I installed it I put a T in so I could run the line and still use the sending unit for the computer

That is what I'm gonna do as well. Guess ill just go to Lowes or home depo to get the "t". Not sure what braided brake line I'll need yet. Guess I'll just do one at a time. Sounds like a good weekend project.

Ohh! Almost forgot! I git my HID projectors in yesterday and my tail lights. But they sent me the wrong tail lights. So I have to send em back!

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:43 am

Sxteve wrote:I don t have traction control ... weird

Pretty normal. Most domestic Neons don't have TC. Mr. nerox has a BUX since he is across the pond.

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:25 am

I've been busy... I've done quite a bit to my car over the last couple weeks.. I just haven't had time to post. Hopefully in the next couple days I'll post some pics. I still have yet to fix the rusty rockers... but I'm close. Just got my new tail lights. Its been over 2 months screwing around with the vendor for them to send me the right ones!

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Sun May 05, 2013 3:55 am

OK! I haven't added anything lately but I have a good reason!!!

viewtopic.php?t=65836&start=0&postdays= ... highlight=

There are so many things I've done that I haven't had time to post. but soon, I will!

rojna · Post by **rojna** » Mon May 06, 2013 8:47 am

Midnight_Rider wrote:
Sxteve wrote:I don t have traction control ... weird
Pretty normal. Most domestic Neons don't have TC. Mr. nerox has a BUX since he is across the pond.

Looks like Mr. nerox has a r/t, my domestic r/t also has traction control, think it was standard on r/t's ... havent seen it on any other neon.

rojna · Post by **rojna** » Mon May 06, 2013 9:13 am

occasional demons wrote:I think he meant wet sand between primer coats. With rattle cans you got to put it on a bit heavy, and sand half of it off to get it smooth, due to the relatively narrow spray pattern. I like to use two different colors every other coat to help find the lows and high spots.
.

Always try to fill in low spots with bondo and glazing putty(the one with hardener, the red putty in a tube is only for filling pinholes), then move on to primer, use a guide coat on top of primer to show low spots, always wait at least 24h before blocking primer.

rojna · Post by **rojna** » Mon May 06, 2013 9:30 am

Sxteve wrote: I've heard also that i should get a "T" adapter.

Car looks great

Here is my T adapter from Home Depot, removing the drive shaft makes this job easy

... just remember to drain you transmission first LOL
Dont use white teflon tape to seal anything with oil or fuel, use the yellow tape or yellow liquid sealer.

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Tue May 07, 2013 10:36 pm

I had a weeks worth of problems .. all explained here.

viewtopic.php?t=65836&start=0&postdays= ... highlight=

I was both blessed and cursed on this repair. I had the fix in my garage. But I didn't know what the problem was till it was too late. it wasn't fuel related like I originally thoght

Before this I had some other mods I worked on....

I still need to get a blue interior light for my right turn signal

My ne3w tail lights... kinda cool??

These came in the mail! I still need to sand em and primer them! but thanks to another 2gn member .. I have RT skirts. Still waiting on a good time to repair my rockers

Sneak PEAK!

My favorite mod! - I still need to install the HID's. that's another day. LOL.Over a small amount of time my driver side fog light is tainted yellow for some reason. I'll post pics's how much, later.
It's Bullshit it is just to change one. Now i'll have to be without one, .. AND change it again... just pisses me off!

speed127 · Post by **speed127** » Thu May 09, 2013 8:31 pm

lookin good. I'm just hoping your gona add a rear skirt to those center tips.

Sxteve · Post by **Sxteve** » Fri May 10, 2013 1:17 pm

I am. But I'm still thinking about what I want exactly. All I know is I don't want anything goddy. I have through around the idea of buying another rear bumper cover and cutting the bitten of it off and somehow attaching it to the bottom of my stock bumper cover?