Jean-Seb's 2005 SX2.0 log

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jonnymopar
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Post by jonnymopar » Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:49 am

Nice work! Now time to add a rear sway bar to make that car handle.

Installing a PT Cruiser shifter is probably one of my favorite things I've ever done to my Neon. That, and adding front and rear ACR sway bars.
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Jon J.

2003 Neon SXT - new home, new owner. Thanks for everything, old friend.
1989 Daytona ES - 2.4L/A555 swapped

Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon Until Jerry Buys It" Club Member #11

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Jean-Seb
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Post by Jean-Seb » Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:11 pm

Thanks guys !

And yeah, a rear swaybar is on the to-do list. I was gonna go with a 22mm Addco. Not sure if it would be too much for a DD at stock ride height. It may bring the car to the oversteer side of things but maaaaaayyyybe not too much with the 24mm front. Thoughts ?

Also it may see an autocross track once in a while. :) Much later though, since it needs more work to become reliable enough. :?

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jonnymopar
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Post by jonnymopar » Sat Nov 29, 2014 2:45 pm

My car is 22mm in front and 19mm in the rear and I think it works great. My car is also at stock ride height. So I think that your proposed 24mm front 22mm rear combination will add a bit more stiffness but keep a good balance. It will definitely be a huge difference from having nothing in the rear!
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Jon J.

2003 Neon SXT - new home, new owner. Thanks for everything, old friend.
1989 Daytona ES - 2.4L/A555 swapped

Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon Until Jerry Buys It" Club Member #11

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Jean-Seb
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Post by Jean-Seb » Sat Nov 29, 2014 7:50 pm

Sounds good man. And if it's too much, then I'll know and I'll spread the word hehe. Sometimes we just gotta try. :thumbup:


A little thing I've done today. I'm not sure of the name of the part, so I'll just call it "brake booster vacuum hose connector".

After removing the cruise control and air conditioning there was no need for the tiny capped tubes on it. So I looked around the junkyard and found that the late 90's Jeeps use a compatible part. It uses the exact same rubber grommet and hose barb size.

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And now less cluttered. Although the deeper I go, the more rust I find. :roll:
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At some point, more interesting stuff will happen. :?

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Nov 30, 2014 9:39 am

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What vacuum source are you connecting the HVAC vacuum line to?

Perhaps a better picture, the small line from the booster to the heater hose through hole.

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Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Jean-Seb
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Post by Jean-Seb » Sun Nov 30, 2014 5:31 pm

occasional demons wrote:What vacuum source are you connecting the HVAC vacuum line to?
None. The 2gn Neons without A/C don't use a line there at all. The only knob which is controlled by vacuum (recirculation/outside air) is gone on the non-A/C control panel. The OEM solution for this is a rubber cap plugging the tube on the thingy I replaced.

edit: Also the line with the tiny canister is only taped to the heater hose while I make sure everything works fine with the new part. I would hate to cut it off to realize something doesn't work anymore. :shock:

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Nov 30, 2014 8:55 pm

The cannister is a check valve/filter. The filter is incase there is a leak inside the cabin, so unfiltered air doesn't enter the engine.

Kind of sucks the recirculate feature is eliminated on the non A/C set up. I use that on really cold mornings to get the cabin air warm faster. You do need to open to fresh air once it is warm, to prevent fogging tho.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Jean-Seb
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Post by Jean-Seb » Wed Dec 03, 2014 4:26 am

occasional demons wrote:Kind of sucks the recirculate feature is eliminated on the non A/C set up. I use that on really cold mornings to get the cabin air warm faster. You do need to open to fresh air once it is warm, to prevent fogging tho.
It kinda does yes. But I doubt it would be as efficient without the A/C. Anyway, the A/C didn't work when I got the car, so I don't really know what I'm missing. :lol:

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Jean-Seb
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Post by Jean-Seb » Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:56 pm

There you are Gramps. :D

Passenger side rocker pics. They look dirty enough now so the flaws are hidden.

And don't worry about the door, I picked up a rust-free and dent-free one a few weeks ago. It'll go on in the spring.


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Like I may have said already, I didn't have time to smooth out the body filler, so it looks ok... just ok. lol
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Jean-Seb
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Post by Jean-Seb » Fri Feb 13, 2015 5:27 pm

Uugh... little update from the cold... :-s

Winter is really not a time to work on cars, but even with the -24F wind chill, I managed to install a little project I finished last week.

So yes, they are stainless steel copies of the original headlight bolts. They won't rust and will match the other fasteners I used on the rad support.
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Here they are in my disgusting winter engine compartment.
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Other than that, I picked up a used CAI and a couple of other things here and there. There's really no use going too crazy with buying parts until spring, I might get t-boned by some idiot before installing them, so just gotta be patient for now. :facepalm2:

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Feb 13, 2015 6:19 pm

Jean-Seb wrote:
So yes, they are stainless steel copies of the original headlight bolts. They won't rust and will match the other fasteners I used on the rad support.

So are these a long full threaded screw you turned down? Pretty cool no matter...

Edit: Nevermind, I can see they look to be rods welded to the screws....
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

Midnight_Rider
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Fri Feb 13, 2015 11:09 pm

Liking the stainless. :thumbup:
Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon 'til It Dies" Club #10

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Feb 14, 2015 6:45 am

Hopefully you still used antiseize, or grease on them. being a smaller drive style, they could still be a pain to get out from the body nut rusting.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Jean-Seb
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Location: Central Quebec, Canada

Post by Jean-Seb » Sat Feb 14, 2015 5:26 pm

Thanks guys. I appreciate it. :D

Good eyes Bill. :shock: They are indeed 4mm diameter rods welded to M6 allen bolts. And yes, grease was used on those bolts and blue Loctite was used on the other ones (rad brackets, honeycomb grille thingy, fenders).

I just can't wait for that stupid winter to end. I rarely complain but now... this is too much. /whining :zzz:

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MyNeonSaysHi
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Sun Feb 15, 2015 12:35 am

Nice little progress, its the little things that count. Well you live in Canada, you must learn to enjoy the weather. But man, they have one of my favorite beers. La Fin Du Monde.

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