Read First! - All the commonly asked questions about the 2nd Gen Neon. Some of your questions may be asked and then answered in here!
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Post by quicksilvr » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:16 pm

Manual Transaxle

There were two main manual transaxles used in the second-generation PL platform. The NVG-T350, which made its way into the 2000-2005 non-SRT Neons, is a 5-speed gearbox. It is fully synchronized in all forward gears, and uses a reverse lock-out to prevent transaxle failure while moving forward. The standard NVG-T350 uses a 3.55 final drive ratio. The NVG-T350 is also available with a special differential, changing the final drive to 3.94. This version of the transaxle was available in all R/T and ACR models from 2001-2004.

The second transaxle available in the PL chassis is that of the SRT-4, known as the NVG-T850. Also a 5-speed, the NVG-T850 is synchronized in all ranges, including reverse. This transaxle is designed to handle the increased power output of the 2.4L Turbo engine in the SRT-4. All PL manual transaxles are of the constant mesh design.


Automatic Transaxle

The second-generation Neon was available with both a 3-speed and a 4-speed automatic transaxle.

The 40TE Automatic Transaxle is found in the majority of second generation Neons. It is a 4-speed hydraulic/mechanical unit with electronic controls and monitors. The differential is integral with the transaxle. A torque converter is used, along with an electronically controlled Torque Converter Clutch (TCC), to couple the engine to the transaxle. A Transmission Control Module (TCM) works with the engine's Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for optimum shift scheduling. Below are the main mechanical components of the 40TE:

*Three multiple disc input clutches
*Two multiple disc holding clutches
*Four hydraulic accumulators
*Two planetary gear sets
*Hydraulic oil pump
*Valve body
*Solenoid/pressure switch assembly
*Integral differential assembly

Gear Ratios

The 40TE input/output gear ratios are as follows (03-05 models):

4th.........................0.69:1 (overdrive)



The only portion of either transaxle that is upgradeable is the differential. The 04-05 SRT-4 comes equipped with a torque-biasing differential from the factory, while all other PL models use an open differential.

Quaife and OBX are the two companys that sell good differentials. There has always been arguement over which is better, especially since there is quite a difference in price. They both work well, the only catch is that the OBX does need its belleville (spring style) washers upgraded to stronger ones.

turbodudey wrote:A true LSD such as a Salisbury, cluch, or plate type differential will lock both sides of the diff together, so that even if one of the drive wheels is completely off the ground the wheel with traction will still have torque applied to it.

A Torsen diff utilizes a helical gear set in addition to the planetary gears. The friction generated by the thrust forces from this internal gearing will bias the torque to the wheel with more traction available. In essence it is a torque multiplier. The torque that the wheel with least traction can hold is multiplied by the TBR (torque bias ratio. this ratio is fixed and unique to a specific differential) and transfered to the wheel with greater traction. So, a torsen diff will not maintain torque to the ground when one of the drive wheels is completely off the ground. (zero torque multiplied by the TBR is still zero)

The Quaife and OBX are torsen differentials, not LSDs.
Last edited by quicksilvr on Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:48 am, edited 4 times in total.

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Post by OB » Tue Sep 16, 2008 3:43 am

Shift Assembly

A short-throw shifter (STS) is a common upgrade in the Neon world. It is both inexpensive and highly effective at improving the car's driving feel and performance. Ideal for racing but also very effective on a daily driver, the short-throw shifter is a great bang-for-the-buck upgrade that any Neon owner can enjoy.

Q: What are my shifter options?

A: Below are some of the popular shifter upgrades:

1. Mopar/MoPure - Very popular shifters for enthusiasts seeking a shortened throw without the sacrifice in streetability.

2. Maddog - Range of shifters available, from mild to wild.

3. B&M/Hurst - Least popular STS options. Replaced shift rod instead of entire assembly.


Q: What if I just want my shifts to be firmer and crisper, but not shorter?

A: A common modification to the shifter is a bushing upgrade. The soft rubber bushings on the shift arms and transaxle linkage are replaced with hard polyurethane units to increase rigidity and make for a more positive shift feel. These kits are available from Booger Bushings (see link below). Solid machined metal bushings are also available for the shift cradle, where the shifter mechanism is bolted to the floorpan of the car. These are available through our very own JohnnyMopar, in the Vendor section of the forum. Please be aware of his time constraints and honor his timeframe statements.

NOTE: The shift linkage bushings on the SRT-4 and Neon are different. The bushings on the shift arm are the same, but one of the bushings on the transaxle is larger on the SRT-4, while the standard Neon with the T-350 transaxle uses four similar bushings.

Booger Bushings site:

JohnnyMopar Solid Cradle Bushings:

Here is a link to a How-To regarding shifter and bushing installation:

Last edited by OB on Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:40 pm, edited 6 times in total.

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Post by OB » Tue Jan 27, 2009 11:45 pm


The factory clutches used in all manual transaxle equipped PL vehicles are modular, meaning the flywheel and clutch assembly are one unit. Most aftermarket clutch kits require the use of an aftermarket flywheel. These are non-modular units, and cannot be used with the OE flywheel. Certain companies offer a modular clutch assembly, complete with flywheel. These units are very expensive.


Q: What are my options for upgrading my clutch?

There are several upgrades available, both modular and non-modular.

1). Mopar High Torque clutch (PT clutch) - Good for stock Neons or those with minor bolt-on upgrades. Inexpensive, OE quality unit.

2). Clutchmasters - Available in several variants for different power levels, both modular and non-modular. Ideal for turbocharged engines or for cars that see a lot of track time. More expensive than the Mopar unit, but much more capable.

3). Fidanza - Available as a non-modular unit only. Comes in various stages for different power ratings. Requires a replacement flywheel. Fairly expensive, but capable of higher holding power than the Mopar unit.

4). Custom made - You can build your own clutch if you have enough information. Because you just need a flywheel, pressure plate, and friction disc, you can put together any setup you want. The hardest thing of those three items to find is an upgraded pressure plate. Flywheels are readily available, as well as friction discs. But there are few upgraded (higher clamping force) pressure plates available. A popular choice has been the Audi 1.8T pressure plate.

I'm not going to go into great depth on this custom setup, but if you're interested in doing such a thing, please research it and you'll find the info you need, because it is out there and many people have done it. :)

Note: Always replace the (TOB) throw-out bearing (also known as a release bearing) when replacing your clutch.


Q: Will an SRT-4 clutch work on my car?

A: Short answer: No. The clutch/flywheel on the 2.4L engine is not the same size as the clutch/flywheel on the the 2.0L engine. In other words, it won't fit into our bellhousing. And the SRT-4 bellhousing does not bolt directly to our 2.0L block, so you can't just use the whole thing either. Of course with lots of work, you can usually make anything work, and you may have heard about people milling down the SRT-4 clutch on a lathe in order to reduce the diameter enough for it to fit into the 2.0L bellhousing.


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