Part Number Request: MTX Rebuild Kit

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fixitmattman
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Part Number Request: MTX Rebuild Kit

Post by fixitmattman » Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:09 am

Didn't see a trans rebuild kit P/N for the NVG 350 in the parts manual. Just wondering if one exists of if I have to order parts piece by piece.

Looking for a kit to replace all bearings and seals. Also, is there a shim kit for the final drive, or do you have to order various shims as needed.

Trans P/N 466 8604

Thanks
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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:22 am

Sorry to say, but Chrysler does not offer a rebuild kit for the MTX, only the ATX
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by 1972demon » Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:29 am

autozone on the other hand does, but its pricey
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Post by fixitmattman » Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:48 am

Gay
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Post by 1972demon » Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:55 am

whats your reason for rebuilding, cant find a good used one?
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fixitmattman
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Post by fixitmattman » Fri Mar 19, 2010 12:00 pm

I do have a good used one, it's the one that's getting re-built :rofl:

Think I'm gonna just throw a used trans in without as a minimum doing bearings and seals? I don't think so. Just throwing a used trans in may work for some people, not me. I work to a different standard.
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Post by JeffB#2 » Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:04 pm

The re-build kits that Ed listed on the big org, he can put more of them together. I can double check on that this weekend if you need me to. He didn't include bearings with that but they're easy to source yourself.

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Post by fixitmattman » Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:46 pm

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. Although if I need to source/order the bearings may as well just tack on the extra P/N's for everything else while I'm at it.
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:17 am

Technically you shouldn't need shims, as long as the bearings are with in spec. Which would be rare for them to be out enough to matter.

If you are keeping the same differential, the shims that are there should be correct.
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fixitmattman
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Post by fixitmattman » Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:59 pm

If you're just throwing the same diff back in the same trans majority of the time you don't need to do a thing. Just throw the diff back in and life is peachy.

However if you notice as a minimum I'm doing a full bearing change/re-fresh, may or may not touch synchro's depending how they look. When you change bearings, you need to re-shim to set proper tolerances for the new bearing set.
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Post by JeffB#2 » Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:24 pm

The shims can be a bitch to get. Some are discontinued, some are expensive as hell. I tell everyone to pull them out of every trans they junk. We should all get together and get a list of who has what thicknesses and sell/trade as needed. I have a stack of about 30 somewhere that I can't seem to find since we moved.
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charger440neon2.0l
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Post by charger440neon2.0l » Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:19 am

Use bed plate sealant for joining the case halves and check your ring gear with marking compound.
BED PLATE SEALANT 04773257
GEAR MARKING COMPOUND 04883065

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Post by JeffB#2 » Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:18 am

Don't need the marking compound, you can't adjust pinion movement. The shims in the case halves are just to make sure the diff is pre-loaded correctly so you don't wear out the bearings prematurely or leave the diff too lose and it wobbles.
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'95 Ply NYG ACR sedan 12.31 @ 111 all motor 2.4 swap - puked
'95 Ply NYG Sport Coupe 2.4 SOHC. Yes, 2.4 single cam.
'01 ACR Stone White
www.boogerbushings.com

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charger440neon2.0l
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Post by charger440neon2.0l » Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:48 am

You need to make sure the tooth contact patch (only movable from the face to the flank) is correct also setting back lash on the ring gear, putting more/thicker shims on one side of the diff. and less/thinner shims on the other adjusts both.

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