How To: Timing belt and Water pump replacement

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tooslow
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How To: Timing belt and Water pump replacement

Post by tooslow » Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:13 pm

I did make it but found it and I thought I would share it
http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/ne ... gbelt.html
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:14 am

I say this thread gets deleted. the dam threddont work.... :beatstick:
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Post by Diablo0 » Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:19 am

PM'd him to see if he can rehost it on here or provide a fresh link.
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[DJ]Tomski
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Post by [DJ]Tomski » Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:25 am

damn, i wanna read this so i know if i should do it myself or have a shop do it. get the link up already! :)
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j0n wrote:I recently discovered that I was modifying a neon and came to my senses...
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:35 am

[DJ]Tomski wrote:damn, i wanna read this so i know if i should do it myself or have a shop do it. get the link up already! :)
Works for me, maybe retry it....
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Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
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Post by jetas » Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:49 pm

it works now. wtf it didnt work last nite :cussing:
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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[DJ]Tomski
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Post by [DJ]Tomski » Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:22 pm

jetas wrote:it works now. wtf it didnt work last nite :cussing:
:withstupid:
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j0n wrote:I recently discovered that I was modifying a neon and came to my senses...
:rofl:

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Adionik
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Post by Adionik » Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:38 pm

I'm too scared to do it myself
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Post by jetas » Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:59 pm

shit me too. il just have my uncle do it... Mechanics in the family are AWESOME!!! :thumbup:
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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tooslow
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Post by tooslow » Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:16 am

I is not hard too do The first time sucks but it is like riding a bike. just make sure you perfectly lined up before you close it up and your good too go.
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:43 pm

Well how much does the belt and tensioner cost??
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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Post by Adionik » Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:48 pm

I got all that shit for $150, T-belt, water pump and tensioner

You still need cam seals and stuff
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:40 am

fuuuuuck!!!! I wonder if I cant get it cheaper thru a mechanic. since they get discounts and us regular people dont :D
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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Post by Adionik » Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:09 am

Maaaaaaybe. That's pretty cheap though.

I will consider doing this next, next weekend. I'll give myself Thur-Sunday to finish it up. that should be long enough LOL

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dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.

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Post by nate-00neon » Mon Apr 13, 2009 9:46 pm

i just started it today... i broke my timing belt cover :(
be very careful!!
i like the 1gn design better, there is much more room and its a piece of cake lol
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Apr 13, 2009 10:51 pm

nate-00neon wrote:i just started it today... i broke my timing belt cover :(
Loc-tite plastic weld. Less than $5 at lowe's. :lol:
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Post by ZeroChad » Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:22 pm

nate-00neon wrote:i just started it today... i broke my timing belt cover :(
be very careful!!
i like the 1gn design better, there is much more room and its a piece of cake lol
Yeah, you can't forget about those two bolts on the bottom of the cover.
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Post by nate-00neon » Tue Apr 14, 2009 9:37 pm

i broke it trying to get the ps tensioner out
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Post by Boyscoutgonebad » Tue May 19, 2009 1:13 pm

Had a question and it relates to this so I'll ask here rather than start a new thread.

I know the recommended millage is 100,000 miles for the water pump,timing belt, tensioner.
I bought my car with just over 100,000 miles. I know the shop I bought it from didn't replace these things, and my guess is that whoever traded it in, traded it before doing the 100,000 mile maintenance to save some money and pass the buck to the next person.

I'm just assuming, it is possible that it was replaced before I bought it but I have no records that I can find out for sure one way or the other.

So my question is should I go ahead and replace it(water pump, belt, etc...) or should I just wait it out and wait for problems?
thanks :thumbup:
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Post by ejclide » Tue May 19, 2009 10:21 pm

wait for problems + interference engine = a LOT more money in the long run!

Seriously, if you're capable of doing it, and you don't know when or if it was done, just do it! I just hit 60k and I'm considering it!
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Post by sxbs » Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:16 am

i just finished test driving mine, changed the timing belt and threw on an underdrive pully (smaller pully) 12 hours with testing the whole thing and refiling the transmission fluid (manual) :)
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Post by ewetho » Sat May 22, 2010 4:39 pm

Hey just did mine (2004 SE MT) at 1179XX miles and it went great. The only thing that did not work was the bolt at the bottom of the tensioner plate/engine mount etc.... would not clear the body even with the car hoisted off the jack. the mount and tensioner plate would hit and would not drop low enough to clear completely.

If this were to occur no worries though just leave the bolt totally loose and once the motor is way up it will come out the top no problem even retightened it from the top.

3 new Goodyear GatorBack belts and sounds much better now. Should have done this earlier.

Old belt looked pretty good just not as tight anymore.
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Post by 86fazer » Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:21 pm

wow this job was cake took me like 3 hours, no haynes manual either why waste another 30.00 bucks ;) I must be a lukcy one because the puller I used was so tiny it was made for pulling alternator hub off I think as my balance came right off with hardly any extreme muscle...


or maybe just a bunch of weak noobs here :owned: that have no guns and take all weekend 5-10 hours ++ :beatstick: to do such a simple task as this ;)


hehe just kiddin thanks for all the pic's and posts you guys took the time do put here :)

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Post by NickKo » Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:38 pm

86fazer wrote:wow this job was cake took me like 3 hours...


or maybe just a bunch of weak noobs here :owned: that have no guns and take all weekend 5-10 hours ++ :beatstick: to do such a simple task as this ;)


hehe just kiddin thanks for all the pic's and posts you guys took the time do put here :)
Well, yeah..... but you are LUCKY, because you are in TX. :cool:
You don't have the same cancerous RUST to deal with, that the rest of us do. :(


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Post by 86fazer » Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:06 am

ya no rust here just desert :)


I did soak most of the bolts over night with PB that I could reach I think that helped alot...


but the whine is still there which is strange still trying to solve that one and I got all new pulleys belts alt etc on now.

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Post by darthroush » Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:59 pm

3 hours is what the "book" calls for. I hope since I don't have rusted stuff either, it takes around there. I'd prefer not to be at it all day. The stuff is already on its way...

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Post by esfan » Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:05 pm

My WP was out when the car hit 70k miles due to the overdue flush of antifreeze probably.
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Post by OB » Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:06 pm

86fazer wrote:ya no rust here just desert :)


I did soak most of the bolts over night with PB that I could reach I think that helped alot...


but the whine is still there which is strange still trying to solve that one and I got all new pulleys belts alt etc on now.
The whine you are probably talking about is considered normal. Pretty much every Neon makes it in some form, some are just more noticeable than others for whatever reason. Mine seemed to lessen a lot when I did my UDP. So it may be related to the tension of the alternator belt, or maybe the size of the serp belt for the AC/PS.
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Post by ZeroChad » Wed Jul 14, 2010 6:48 pm

I believe its the PS pump. Mine makes a supercharger-esque noise when I have it hooked up.
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Post by 86fazer » Wed Jul 14, 2010 8:51 pm

ya I ran the engine with the alt & ps pump belts off it still whines very strange like its modded lol


unless it's all valve train noise like old school flat heads made

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