How To: Timing belt and Water pump replacement
How To: Timing belt and Water pump replacement
I did make it but found it and I thought I would share it
http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/ne ... gbelt.html
http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/ne ... gbelt.html
ms powered 03r/t turbo
- [DJ]Tomski
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Works for me, maybe retry it....[DJ]Tomski wrote:damn, i wanna read this so i know if i should do it myself or have a shop do it. get the link up already!
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
- [DJ]Tomski
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 729
- Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:10 pm
- Location: IL
shit me too. il just have my uncle do it... Mechanics in the family are AWESOME!!!
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
fuuuuuck!!!! I wonder if I cant get it cheaper thru a mechanic. since they get discounts and us regular people dont
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
Maaaaaaybe. That's pretty cheap though.
I will consider doing this next, next weekend. I'll give myself Thur-Sunday to finish it up. that should be long enough LOL
2 vehicles FTMFW!
I will consider doing this next, next weekend. I'll give myself Thur-Sunday to finish it up. that should be long enough LOL
2 vehicles FTMFW!
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.
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i just started it today... i broke my timing belt cover
be very careful!!
i like the 1gn design better, there is much more room and its a piece of cake lol
be very careful!!
i like the 1gn design better, there is much more room and its a piece of cake lol
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Loc-tite plastic weld. Less than $5 at lowe's.nate-00neon wrote:i just started it today... i broke my timing belt cover
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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- 2GN Member
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i broke it trying to get the ps tensioner out
Feedback: viewtopic.php?t=48146
^^Click to see all of the offered products^^
Amsoil dealer. I can get you great prices on all amsoil products! send me a pm
^^Click to see all of the offered products^^
Amsoil dealer. I can get you great prices on all amsoil products! send me a pm
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Had a question and it relates to this so I'll ask here rather than start a new thread.
I know the recommended millage is 100,000 miles for the water pump,timing belt, tensioner.
I bought my car with just over 100,000 miles. I know the shop I bought it from didn't replace these things, and my guess is that whoever traded it in, traded it before doing the 100,000 mile maintenance to save some money and pass the buck to the next person.
I'm just assuming, it is possible that it was replaced before I bought it but I have no records that I can find out for sure one way or the other.
So my question is should I go ahead and replace it(water pump, belt, etc...) or should I just wait it out and wait for problems?
thanks
I know the recommended millage is 100,000 miles for the water pump,timing belt, tensioner.
I bought my car with just over 100,000 miles. I know the shop I bought it from didn't replace these things, and my guess is that whoever traded it in, traded it before doing the 100,000 mile maintenance to save some money and pass the buck to the next person.
I'm just assuming, it is possible that it was replaced before I bought it but I have no records that I can find out for sure one way or the other.
So my question is should I go ahead and replace it(water pump, belt, etc...) or should I just wait it out and wait for problems?
thanks
Hey just did mine (2004 SE MT) at 1179XX miles and it went great. The only thing that did not work was the bolt at the bottom of the tensioner plate/engine mount etc.... would not clear the body even with the car hoisted off the jack. the mount and tensioner plate would hit and would not drop low enough to clear completely.
If this were to occur no worries though just leave the bolt totally loose and once the motor is way up it will come out the top no problem even retightened it from the top.
3 new Goodyear GatorBack belts and sounds much better now. Should have done this earlier.
Old belt looked pretty good just not as tight anymore.
If this were to occur no worries though just leave the bolt totally loose and once the motor is way up it will come out the top no problem even retightened it from the top.
3 new Goodyear GatorBack belts and sounds much better now. Should have done this earlier.
Old belt looked pretty good just not as tight anymore.
2004 Neon SE -- Mods -- K&N CAI, R/T Muffler, Booger Bushings, Prothane Suspension & Race MM Inserts, Vitor's TM Inserts
wow this job was cake took me like 3 hours, no haynes manual either why waste another 30.00 bucks I must be a lukcy one because the puller I used was so tiny it was made for pulling alternator hub off I think as my balance came right off with hardly any extreme muscle...
or maybe just a bunch of weak noobs here that have no guns and take all weekend 5-10 hours ++ to do such a simple task as this
hehe just kiddin thanks for all the pic's and posts you guys took the time do put here
or maybe just a bunch of weak noobs here that have no guns and take all weekend 5-10 hours ++ to do such a simple task as this
hehe just kiddin thanks for all the pic's and posts you guys took the time do put here
Well, yeah..... but you are LUCKY, because you are in TX.86fazer wrote:wow this job was cake took me like 3 hours...
or maybe just a bunch of weak noobs here that have no guns and take all weekend 5-10 hours ++ to do such a simple task as this
hehe just kiddin thanks for all the pic's and posts you guys took the time do put here
You don't have the same cancerous RUST to deal with, that the rest of us do.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
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The whine you are probably talking about is considered normal. Pretty much every Neon makes it in some form, some are just more noticeable than others for whatever reason. Mine seemed to lessen a lot when I did my UDP. So it may be related to the tension of the alternator belt, or maybe the size of the serp belt for the AC/PS.86fazer wrote:ya no rust here just desert
I did soak most of the bolts over night with PB that I could reach I think that helped alot...
but the whine is still there which is strange still trying to solve that one and I got all new pulleys belts alt etc on now.
-Derek
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