How to: Seafoam your car
How to: Seafoam your car
http://www.seafoamsales.com/
Seafoam is an engine cleaner found at most parts stores for $6 a bottle. You can use it in your oil, intake or gas tank. Here is a sort write up of what I just did to my neon. I must say it sounds nicer and gets better gas mileage now.
1. As planned, i put 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the oil, and the other 1/3 thru the vacuum line.
2. Do the gas and oil first because the vacuum line sucks it up real fast
3. To find the vacuum line: look behind your battery and you will see 2 electrical connectors. just below those connectors you will find the brake booster, the large black metal cylindrical thingy, you will see it. on the left front of that you will see a 3-way splitter, there are 2 smaller hoses connected to it, and then a larger hose, probably 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter, this is the hose you want. mine was on the left side of the splitter, but i dont know if its that way with all. pull it off and your engine rpm's will shoot up.
4. Slowly stick the hose into the can, if you stick it in too fast your engine will die. i only stuck mine into the can maybe an inch or 1 1/2". the engine will start to stumble, if you think it is going to die then pull the hose out a little. my engine never did die once all of the seafoam was gone so i just stuck my finger on the end of the line and it died. i let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and took it for a drive.
5. it did run like crap for the first 5-10 minutes of my little drive and it smoked a lot as well, but i was getting a lot of looks so it was fun... : ) The smoke is the carbon build up coming out. Do this every oil change and you will see a good difference.
*** Once done in the oil it is important to get an oil change to clean out all the particles in the oil and change your spark plugs***
Last edited by SlvrACR on Sun Oct 08, 2006 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Nick Drake
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The only thing you should add is to put the seafoam into your brake booster line, let it sit for about 15 minutes, then run it til it stops smoking BEFORE you do your oilchange.
kc2002acr wrote:because if I was racing you at a 60 roll, I would have been in second for a second till I hit 3rd, then I would have called you on my cell phone and asked you if my taillights were all working.
- submaster.nick
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- Nick Drake
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There may be a lot of carbon build up on them after the seafoam treatment, you may be able to just clean them off. But it's best to do it before you put in new plugs just so everything can start off nice and clean.Marthby wrote:Why change the spark plugs?
kc2002acr wrote:because if I was racing you at a 60 roll, I would have been in second for a second till I hit 3rd, then I would have called you on my cell phone and asked you if my taillights were all working.
- submaster.nick
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yep that and you should replace your number 1 O2 sensor with a spark plug while your running it so you don't have to spend the money to get a new one cuz every now and then the carbon that is exiting will screw it up.. its happened to me twice that is why I use a spark plus in its place
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- submaster.nick
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i just bought this bottle from AAP.
My plan is to put this in the gas tank for now, then wait till my time for oil change to put them in the oil and change spark plug.
my question is, do i put the liquid in a full tank of gas or half-empty or what ? Also, do i drain the gas tank out afterward or not ?
whats the plan for it ? thanks
My plan is to put this in the gas tank for now, then wait till my time for oil change to put them in the oil and change spark plug.
my question is, do i put the liquid in a full tank of gas or half-empty or what ? Also, do i drain the gas tank out afterward or not ?
whats the plan for it ? thanks
- Nick Drake
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Just put it in when you fill it up. I think it says some directions on the side, and no don't drain the tank afterwards, it's meant as an injector cleaner too lol.
kc2002acr wrote:because if I was racing you at a 60 roll, I would have been in second for a second till I hit 3rd, then I would have called you on my cell phone and asked you if my taillights were all working.
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Next time you're under 1/2 tank and stop for gas, pour it into your tank BEFORE THE GAS. Then fill up with gas. That way, the gas pouring into the tank will mix the Seafoam up really well into all of the gas.
Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.
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okay, so i just did this through my brake booster line and i'm not sure if this was supposed to happen or not...I took the vacuum line off, turned the car on, obviously RPM's were high due to a vacuum leak. I poured the 1/3 seafoam in a paper cup to make it easier to suck up. I took the vacuum line and let it suck up the sea-foam but after it sucked up the last bit I couldn't get it to die so I ran to shut the car off...when I did this the car still stuttered with life a bit and then it finally died but I saw a large billow of smoke, burning type smoke come out of my throttle body...is that normal?? i'm a little worried as I've never done it that way before and it didn't smell good. Right now I'm letting it sit for 10-15 minutes so it'll do its thing, I reconnected the vacuum line as well...do I have anything to worry about or was that normal? I'm quite worried and shaken after seeing that, hopefully thats just sea-foam doin its thing...
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Yea when i seafoamed my engine a few weeks back i went to shut off the car after letting it suck up through the vacuum line. When i turned the key off the engine was still running it took me pulling two plug wires out to get it to shut off. Kinda weird i was freaked out, but it started and ran good so me and my buddy took it out and got some great looks as we went through my neighborhood covering it in smoke.
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http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=272844
After reading this, I would have to agree fully. Everyone should read this post also if you're going to use Seafoam, or want a good way to clean the carbon deposits out of the combustion chambers (and clean the gunk off the butterfly valves and actuator rod in magnum cars)
After reading this, I would have to agree fully. Everyone should read this post also if you're going to use Seafoam, or want a good way to clean the carbon deposits out of the combustion chambers (and clean the gunk off the butterfly valves and actuator rod in magnum cars)
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Did mine today, and there is a nice difference. I put the entire can through the brake booster line, and let it die at the end. I let the car sit for 2 hours and went for a drive afterwards. Did some 4-5K rpms with no throttle in 1st to make vaccumm and I had a HUGE cloud behind me for about a mile...doing a drive through my neighborhood. I couldn't see a foot behind me and I bet people were pissed, especially a guy washing his car where I started. lol. Put in some Pennzoil Platinum, and car runs great.
Did this today too. I put the whole can in the booster line as well, cuz it was too rainy to change the oil. I drove the car around, getting a few stares cuz of the big cloud of smoke left behind... but about 10 seconds into the drive I got a CEL!!! WTH, I freaked a little.................. then the CEL started blinking!!! OMGWTF!!!! Now I paniced! As soon as I was gonna stop the car and let it idle, the CEL stopped blinking so I kept driving. I let the car spew out all the smoke with the CEL light on the whole time. Did the turn-key test thingy and got code P1072, car running rich. I tried driving the car around, hoping the car would lean itself out and make the CEL go away but nope, still there. I stopped the car then unplugged the fuel relay for a minute and it dissappeared! Car runs really awesome now, and I can only imagine how it'll be like after I change my oil and plugs to Penzoil Platinum and NGK Iridiums! My car will run like a Viper! (not!) lol
So yeah, incase anyone gets the same CEL just unplug the fuel relay and problem solved!
So yeah, incase anyone gets the same CEL just unplug the fuel relay and problem solved!
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BlackRoseRacing wrote:You have to remove it for a certain amount of time...FYI....
In yo' face BRR! jk I think you have to remove the fuel relay for 45 seconds OR the battery for 45 minutes to be exact, right?Marthby wrote:I stopped the car then unplugged the fuel relay for a minute and it dissappeared!
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^^^Marthby wrote:BlackRoseRacing wrote:You have to remove it for a certain amount of time...FYI....In yo' face BRR! jk I think you have to remove the fuel relay for 45 seconds OR the battery for 45 minutes to be exact, right?Marthby wrote:I stopped the car then unplugged the fuel relay for a minute and it dissappeared!
Going off topic, several people have tried several things to speed up the process but with no luck. The easiest way to clear the pcm is yank the negative cable, remove the fuel pump relay and let it sit for roughly 30minutes.
I've tried the other so called tricks and tested them with a multimeter and a scan tool and long story short, with the battery disconnected, FP relay removed and me holding the brake pedal for atleast 1minute did not toally discharge the pcm enough to clear the codes. Others may have different experiences but thats all good for another topic for discussion..
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Your horn, believe it or not is the accessory that requires the most juice.
And, for the most part, the billowing smoke is your engine burning that Seafoam stuff, ruining your O2 sensors, clogging your cat, fouling your plugs, etc., etc., I'm sure it helps remove carbon buildup, but I don't know if it would really be worth the aftermath.
Not saying it's a bad product, just my .02
And, for the most part, the billowing smoke is your engine burning that Seafoam stuff, ruining your O2 sensors, clogging your cat, fouling your plugs, etc., etc., I'm sure it helps remove carbon buildup, but I don't know if it would really be worth the aftermath.
Not saying it's a bad product, just my .02
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LOUD PIPES SAVE LIVES!!
Hahn Turbo, Portfueler, 3"downpipe, BC Coilovers........ahh who cares.SOLD
2001 BMW 530I
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