How to: do the halfshaft mod

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Notanexit92
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Post by Notanexit92 » Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:27 pm

Is there any way to make the throttle not so sensitive? It's like the plate will stick and I'll try and press the throttle more until it finally opens and the car jolts forward.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:46 pm

Adjust the throttle stop (idle screw) so it doesn't stick closed. Or possibly the plate needs centered better on the shaft. This can be done by holding it so the spring tension isn't pulling against the screws. (At idle position) Then loosen them and let the plate center itself, and gently tighten each screw.

Good luck!
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Notanexit92
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Post by Notanexit92 » Sat Oct 29, 2011 2:04 am

Well I figured what was the real problem! The throttle plate is kinda like a flattened cork, tapered in a sense. So I had it back wards, thinking both sides were the same. Now it's not sticking!

itswhatwedo
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Half shaft mod

Post by itswhatwedo » Thu Nov 10, 2011 1:13 pm

Well after reading and rereading this thread I did the half shaft mod and steel plate ( which has two cut angles top goes down the body and bottom goes up with the body in it's stock position). after disassemble and cutting the shaft (easy part) I test fitted the steel plate to the shaft using 8-32x1/2" TRUSS head screws ( low profile headed screws) I cut the extra thread of the screws off so they set flush with shaft. Then sanded all the burs off the shaft and the new shorter screws. disassembled that and put the modded shaft in the body and set up the big tensioner spring and set the steel plate in according to the angles (FYI the plate I used had a stamping of numbers on it when I took it out the 1gn body I made note of how the stamp was facing when removing it). I found when mounting it in the 2gn body the best fit was to turn the stamp 180 degrees so when looking at it it's upside down. Now the fun part is checking the steel plate in the 2gn body you will see the open cracks around the edge area of the plate and it will stick. :banghead: This must be due to the molding of the plastic throttle body (not true round). Give thanks to Chrysler engineering to cut down on cost not making a metal throttle body. Now the way I fixed that was to scribe on the plate where it was making contact to the body, In my case at the IAC ports the most. Taking the dremel I shaved off some of the steel plate there and sanded it smooth. After trial and era, it fits. :D Sure I could adjust the stop screw but I've had bad luck with playing with that and the TPS volts. The way I did it keeps that the same and not stick. Once that was done I installed the plate and screws with LOCTITE. Left them a little lose to adjust the shafts side to side play making sure the plate was centered on the shaft and locked down the screws. re-installed all the other components and installed the body back on the car. PLUS I also took this time to run the accelerator and cruise cables under the intake manifold. Hooked everything back up and crank it. Fine tune adjustments where needed while on car BUT once dialed in the thing works and the TPS set with stock idle voltage and idling at around 750 +/- RPS :D Test drove car and YES there is lot better throttle response than before top end is smoother too.

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mopartothemax
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Post by mopartothemax » Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:45 am

i have one for sell cheap
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Mar 10, 2012 5:05 am

mopartothemax wrote:i have one for sell cheap
Post it in the FS section with the proper information/pics.
Bill
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2001 Neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
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