How to: do the halfshaft mod

anomalous0
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How to: do the halfshaft mod

Post by anomalous0 » Sat Nov 25, 2006 1:46 am

I am assuming you know how to remove the throttle body.
If not, detach it from the bellows tube. Twist the throttle cable around the cam so you can slide out the retainer. Then unclip the throttle cable from the throttle body bracket. Remove all sensor wiring harnesses, vaccuum lines, etc.

First you will need to remove the throttle plate. You will need a torx bit, a T25 I believe. It's best to use a bit and not just a torx key, since those screws can be stuck in there pretty tight, thought you may be able to get by. If you are swapping in an aluminum throttle plate from a 1gn remove it as well. Do this by loosening the screws, twisting the throttle cam, and sliding the plate out sideways. The plastic one only goes one direction though.
Next, remove the throttle position sensor. Image
Those two screws in the picture. Now with a little finagling you should be able to pull out the shaft. Be careful of the spring.
Cut half of the shaft off (hence half-shaft mod.) Make SURE you cut the side with the indentations for the screws already in there.

Image
Otherwise you'll have to screw the screws in from the other side. I'm not sure that would work, and even if it did you'd have the screw heads creating turbulence. (note:if you're having trouble with seeing where the arrows are pointing, right click and "save as" to your desktop, and open it up with some sort of image viewer where you can zoom. The resolution's fine on it, it's just showing up small for some reason.)

If you want to get fancy, screw the throttle plate back on the shaft before you put the shaft back in so you can see how far the screw tips stick out and grind them down. If you do this, take the plate off again since you won't be able to get the shaft in the TB with it on. Replace the halfshaft (you may have some trouble with the spring, just make sure each end of the spring is resting on the little ledge reserved for it.) Now comes the tricky part. When you replace the Throttle position sensor, make sure that you have it oriented properly. It will go on slightly torqued one way or another. Make sure that you can work the throttle cam with the TPS on, or you've got it on backwards. If it's on right, it'll offer slight resistance, and if it's on wrong, it won't budge.

Now put the throttle plate in (either the plastic one or a new metal one) and you're done!


Image
Image

Note: I have the feeling I may be forgetting something when it comes to putting the shaft back in. Not sure what it is, but pretty sure it's a common sense sort of thing. Use your brain. On the 1gn throttle body there's a retaining circlip holding the shaft in place, but the 2gns don't have that. Not sure what they have holding it in place. If worst comes to worst and it's still sliding out, coil the spring and use the throttle plate to keep it from sliding out. I don't think you'll have to do that though.[/img]
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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Nov 25, 2006 5:54 am

(note:if you're having trouble with seeing where the arrows are pointing, right click and "save as" to your desktop, and open it up with some sort of image viewer where you can zoom. The resolution's fine on it, it's just showing up small for some reason.)
Great right up, crappy pics :)

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Post by z3roneo » Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:26 am

Not to sound all retarded.... but what does this mod do exactly??
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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:02 pm

better airflow.....
Its one of those little mods that make things flow a little better...

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Post by anomalous0 » Sat Nov 25, 2006 3:42 pm

it's no biggie, just one of those things to do when you get that itch to mod but you only have a few $$ on hand. You can tell the difference, mostly in throttle response, doubt there's more than 1 hp to be gained from this, if that. The pics suck because I'm using myspace to host them. I'll look into getting my own domain at some point, then they'll be bigger.
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Post by z3roneo » Sat Nov 25, 2006 3:56 pm

Sweet... might have to go pick up an extra Tb and try this... Try photobucket... that's where I upload and post all my pics from...
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Post by daaboots » Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:06 pm

What did you use to cut the shaft? A grinder?
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Post by JFTL » Sat Aug 18, 2007 4:26 pm

Had a bit of content to add to this now that I've done it myself.

To answer the last question, yes, we used a grinder to cut one of the halves off.

Here is a picture of the throttle plates side by side. (1GN on the left, 2GN on the right).
Image

And here's a side profile of the 2GN plate so you can see why replacing it is good.
Image

You can't use the 1GN plate without doing the half-shaft mod. The 2gn throttle plate measures .100 of an inch and at the butterfly's largest point .285 of an inch!. The 1gn measures .060 of an inch, so it's too thin to go in there on it own, and 2 of them stacked together would make it .120 of an inch, in other words, too thick. I guess one option would be to make a spacer, but it's easier just to cut off the half of the shaft that has no threads.

One problem I ran into is the new throttle plate wanting to stick when all the way closed. I ended up moving my idle adj. screw in about 3/4 of a turn, and that took care of it. I also cleaned my AIS motor, and reset my battery. The car idles around 900 rpm now.

My results were as advertised. Less boggy throttle response.

Hope this helps anyone else who is considering this mod.

Kevin
Silver MTX 2002 Neon S (base with a CD player)
Mods: K&N Drop in/removed resonator,Half-shaft mod+1gn Throttle Plate, custom axle back exhaust, UDP, Magnum Header,04 SXT Cluster (Tach! Yay!). In the works: SRT4 Springs, PT Clutch, Maddog STS W/jonnymopar and boogers, Engine Rebuild.

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Post by z3roneo » Sat Oct 27, 2007 12:31 pm

Thought I give a lil update with pics you peeps can actaully see...

Haftshaft Mod done... You basically cut of the side that the bolts set in... not the thread side... When you take it out, you'll see what we mean..
Image
Image

Now I put the 1gn (atx tb plate, 52mm) into its new home with some shortier bolts... make sure you use some locktite on them... You don't want them to come out and let the intake eat them...
Image
Image

I'll have some pics of the differences here in a min to compare the haftshaft mod to the stock piece..
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Post by z3roneo » Sat Oct 27, 2007 4:05 pm

Other pics...

Halfshaft next to the stocker...
Image

Halfshaft Installed...
Image
Image

As said up top... getting the spring back on was funny... Didn't take that long though... And you will have to idjust the idle adjuster bolt cuz the plate does stick and stay open a very lil bit (as you can see in the last pic)...

:hello2:
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Post by MoparNeonMan » Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:04 pm

if the plate sticks....couldnt you just rotate the new plate 180 degrees?
me and my car have a give and take relationship

it gives me shite and i take it

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Post by aperson » Mon Oct 29, 2007 11:04 pm

So let me get this straight. The stock shaft has a slot in it. What you're doing is cutting off the side without the threads. Would using washers/spacer material work instead? The gain from this mod is by replacing the plate right not cutting the shaft?
I'm just asking questions to avoid cutting. I'd rather not do something that is irreversible just in case I screw it up.
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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Tue Oct 30, 2007 5:19 am

Cut half of the shaft off (hence half-shaft mod.)
The origional intent of this topic is to cut the shaft....

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kevo
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Post by kevo » Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:05 pm

i hate to hijack this thread like this but i was wondering if anyone is interested in a slightly cheaper solution. I can probably get 52mm plates.

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Post by keeders08 » Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:28 pm

kevo wrote:i hate to hijack this thread like this but i was wondering if anyone is interested in a slightly cheaper solution. I can probably get 52mm plates.
kevo, dood the half shaft mod may as well be done with the Auto 52mm TB... so no ur not savin money becuz this mod is cheap to begin with... Maybe i read ur reply wrong? lemme know buddy.
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Dec 31, 2007 6:17 am

keeders08 wrote:
kevo wrote:i hate to hijack this thread like this but i was wondering if anyone is interested in a slightly cheaper solution. I can probably get 52mm plates.
kevo, dood the half shaft mod may as well be done with the Auto 52mm TB... so no ur not savin money becuz this mod is cheap to begin with... Maybe i read ur reply wrong? lemme know buddy.
It's cheaper because you wouldn't have to get a 1gn TB to use the steel plate. All 2gn TB are 52mm plastic plates.
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Post by NickKo » Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:01 am

Great write-up. I am going to be trying this mod soon.

Thanks everyone !!

-Nick

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Post by keeders08 » Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:06 am

occasional demons, are you sure about that?
im pretty sure u would need a 1st gen TB to get the steel plate.....


Anyways, i just did this mod a few days ago. Does good things. Port matching and straping ur TB directly to your IM def. helps out alot as well... im just trying to find a cheap solution to the imperfections of the IM because well im skinny but my hand and dremel arent getting themselves up far enough to port match and hone all the way thru...lol

Ne way, yea this def. a good write up, easy to do, i actually didnt even look at the pics or follow the steps. The general idea, i think, is enough for ur average Joe to figure out...

oh... P.S. - I used a dremel to cut mine off. 25-30 bucks for electric one at walmart...love the bitch!

get it, use it, Bob's your uncle.
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:21 am

What I meant was you could buy the steel plate from him, instead of taking the time to find/buy a 1gn TB. (unless you have one laying around, of course.) :D
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
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Post by keeders08 » Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:35 am

occasional demons wrote:What I meant was you could buy the steel plate from him, instead of taking the time to find/buy a 1gn TB. (unless you have one laying around, of course.) :D
yea i noticed that after i wrote what i wrote lol but i left it so itd still get ur attention and give me sumthing to do if im bored like i am right now.

but yea i got it now, dee de deee, my bad sir!

Bobs ur uncle
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Post by Bebo » Sat Feb 02, 2008 11:54 pm

Anyone try this on a turbo car yet? I'm mostly concerned with the possability of breakage.

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Post by NickKo » Sun Feb 03, 2008 9:27 am

Bebo wrote:Anyone try this on a turbo car yet? I'm mostly concerned with the possability of breakage.
I don't think it would break.

What I would be more concerned about, is to be sure to use locktite on the screws that hold the throttle plate in position.

You don't want those to get sucked in ......

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Post by z3roneo » Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:34 am

Bebo wrote:Anyone try this on a turbo car yet? I'm mostly concerned with the possability of breakage.
I have it done on my car and have/had no probs with it..
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Post by kneon1996 » Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:04 am

good write up easy mod

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Post by rmc03 » Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:56 pm

Did this mod today & I like it.

Image

I feel it improved throttle response a bit & might breathe a little better at WOT.

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:25 pm

:thumbup:


related OT...
I did it on my Jeep 4.0, along with boring out the bottom part to 60mm, but really didn't make a difference. I didn't expect much tho, but it was free, and I was bored...

Was going to put the 65mm Mustang TB on, but unfortunately the throttle shaft Mopar uses is too small in diameter, and I am too lazy to make the Ford shaft work. Thanks Dino Savva for the false hope! :lol:
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
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Post by neonrt_98 » Tue Oct 18, 2011 4:10 pm

Just thought I would add that all 1gn tb's use the 52mm throttle plate. The only difference in the 49mm(MTX) & 52mm(ATX) 1gn tb is that the 49mm is just necked down to 49mm before the throttle plate then opens back up to 52mm at the plate.
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:40 pm

That would make sense cost wise. Tho a whole different body doesn't. Corporate logic.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Post by neonrt_98 » Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:21 pm

The MTX tb was necked down to help lower the throttle response so it wouldn't be so jumping. The MTX tb also has a stiffer spring.
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:45 pm

Yeah, I never got that excuse for the MTX. That's what a clutch is for. Even with the 60mm, mine isn't as bad as the V6 Sundance ATX for being touchy as hell on take off.

I had a harder time not spinning the tires on the ATX vs the MTX version of the P body, and they both have basically the same TB. Heck, even the 3.0 ATX caravans will roast the tires on takeoff if you aren't careful. I think they got it backwards. :lol:


Obviously, they figured it out by the time 2gn's came around.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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