How-To: Cam Install

yellowpatrol · Post by **yellowpatrol** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 6:07 pm

Wow you guys were slow- I got my cams out in 30 minutes:

I cheated though by taking the engine out.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:23 pm

1/2 Scottish · Post by **1/2 Scottish** » Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:21 am

The missing pictures are of the damage caused from the engine falling.

JK

dtecneon · Post by **dtecneon** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 6:00 pm

Nice stuff.

BIGSRTURBO · Post by **BIGSRTURBO** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:55 pm

lot of fun there....brings back memories

NeonNick925 · Post by **NeonNick925** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:41 pm

Thanks a TON for the write up! Saved me some money from not haveing to buy gaskets & ect. Car runs GREAT! It's a 2005 SXT & replaced stock cam for a compcam 200. Works nice a lil more in the top end,not really noticeable at low rpm. Keep up the great write ups!

pyistazty · Post by **pyistazty** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 1:26 am

Wow, dead horse. oops

beating it much?

how much time would a shop take to do this?

...lol

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 3:20 pm

Question, if i were to use compressed air to hold the valves up while i replace the springs, would that throw off the timing at all? since it would rotate the crank?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 4:44 pm

Broken Glass wrote:Question, if i were to use compressed air to hold the valves up while i replace the springs, would that throw off the timing at all? since it would rotate the crank?

If you are also replacing the cam, then it shouldn't matter. Leave the cam out, until the springs are replaced. Otherwise just leave the timing belt on.

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:42 pm

im replacing both, but i thought if the crank turned, it would throw the belt out of alingment, sorry im a timing noob

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:06 pm

Broken Glass wrote:im replacing both, but i thought if the crank turned, it would throw the belt out of alingment, sorry im a timing noob

Here is another version:
http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/ne ... gbelt.html

You will need to pull the engine down this far to do it either way. I would never trust the belt not to move. Without removing the dampner, and lower cover, you cannot tell if it is lined up properly.

Install the springs. Plug all holes, and have a magnet to retrieve the locks. you will drop them. A small pair of needle nose pliers is very helpful. Some grease on the locks also helps them stick to the valve stem.

Once the cam is in:
install gear
install belt
line up the marks
tighten down the tensioner
rotate the engine a minimum of two complete revolutions
double check that the marks still line up.
Do Not Forget To Torque The Cam Bolt! The pin will shear, and you will have a paper weight.
Then install the rocker shafts.

if near 100,000 miles a waterpump, new belt, seals, and some recommend an oil pump also. I didn't do the oil pump, and have over gone 30,000 miles since. Unfortunately I ran into other issues when I attemted the springs. (If the cylinders don't hold air, you cant get the locks off) Pray your valves don't have that much carbon build up.
My 105,000 mile service/Mag cam install budget got expanded a little.

Edit: A new cam seal is highly recommended anyways, since you are changing the mating surface, they are easy to change, and are around $10 to $20. I would also get a CPS seal .

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:23 pm

Alright thanks alot, for some odd reason making the belt in both spots didnt strike me as i wasnt able to see the crank in the pictures. and im assuming the cam gear will only fit on the cam in one postion correct?

And both the cam gear and the crank gear should be at TDC when the belts reinstalled yes?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:59 pm

The gear has a slot that the cam dowel pin goes into for alignment. It will not handle the load of turning the cam. The cam is held to the gear by friction alone. You will understand when it comes time to break loose the bolt, and tighten it.

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 5:30 pm

Alright thanks, And i asked in another thread about an msd ignition, do you know if it will work with an ngc car? thanks

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:51 pm

one last question. is there only one way to install the magnet? or can it be installed upside down or anything like that?

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:43 pm

It only fits one way. (Unless the tab is broken)

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:52 pm

thanks, do you happen to know of a valve compressor that will actully work on our heads? ive looked around and i cant find anything

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBUX0 this looks like it might work

how about this one? http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-379.aspx it says small engine but 2 inches should be enough to grab two runs of the spring and compress it, anyone know if theres that much room with the cam out to use this?

2001rt32 · Post by **2001rt32** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 11:01 pm

how does the comp 400 idle? is it smooth or does it lope? is it too much for a dd?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 4:52 am

ok people, please keep the general questions in another topic as this is a How To for a cam install...thanks

Haganracing · Post by **Haganracing** » Thu May 06, 2010 9:11 pm

Just did this, thanks for the writeout!

One question.. Did you guys dial in the cam or leave it as 0? If you guys dialed it in, where did you dial it in to?? (example: like 2 retard, or 2 advance)

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Fri May 07, 2010 1:57 am

In BRR's progress log he mentioned that the stock timing marks essentially will retard the crank. I think this could be seen as advancing the cam instead. I just left mine at 0 for now with that in mind. With a higher rev limiter it might be worth advancing to shift the powerband up some.

Haganracing · Post by **Haganracing** » Fri May 07, 2010 2:02 am

Yeah, I haven't driven the car too much but you can really feel the cam in first gear around 5k... I plan on doing the cam degree wheel saturday (that is the plan anyways, whether it goes into action is a whole different story LOL)

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri May 07, 2010 8:44 am

You do realize that you will have to undo all that stuff to install a different cam gear? I would have waited to get the gear.

Unless you just mean moving the setting on the adjustable gear already in place. I thought advancing cam timing moved the power band down, and retarding it moved it up. I may be wrong tho.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Fri May 07, 2010 12:56 pm

occasional demons wrote: I thought advancing cam timing moved the power band down, and retarding it moved it up. I may be wrong tho.

you sir are correct!

Haganracing · Post by **Haganracing** » Fri May 07, 2010 6:50 pm

occasional demons wrote:You do realize that you will have to undo all that stuff to install a different cam gear? I would have waited to get the gear.

Unless you just mean moving the setting on the adjustable gear already in place. I thought advancing cam timing moved the power band down, and retarding it moved it up. I may be wrong tho.

I have the adjustable cam gear installed on the neon already. Its just set at 0 on the timing mark.

The only thing I have to do to adjust it is to remove the top engine mount and loosen the 5 bolts on the cam gear. I only have to take the passenger tire off to install the degree chart.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:39 am

i need torque specs

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 14, 2010 8:32 pm

Camshaft target magnet: 3.4 N·m (30 in. lbs.).

Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt:115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION: DO NOT use an impact wrench (or any
other air operated tool) for tightening the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Damage to the camshaft timing pin
can result. ONLY use a hand wrench while holding
camshaft sprocket with Special Tool.

Rocker arm shaft bolts: 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Nov 14, 2010 8:45 pm

occasional demons wrote:Camshaft target magnet: 3.4 N·m (30 in. lbs.).

Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt:115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION: DO NOT use an impact wrench (or any
other air operated tool) for tightening the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Damage to the camshaft timing pin
can result. ONLY use a hand wrench while holding
camshaft sprocket with Special Tool.
Rocker arm shaft bolts: 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)

thanks man!
what about the vc?
and whats the "special tool" ??

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 14, 2010 8:55 pm

A special tool to hold the cam from turning while tightening the cam bolt to 85 ft lbs. See post 29 for my special tool/method.

The VC bolts, just snug them down. Just tight enough, so you know they won't come loose.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Nov 14, 2010 9:16 pm

occasional demons wrote:A special tool to hold the cam from turning while tightening the cam bolt to 85 ft lbs. See post 29 for my special tool/method.

The VC bolts, just snug them down. Just tight enough, so you know they won't come loose.

thanks dudemanbro!