How-To: Walbro fuel pump install or stock pump replacement

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quicksilvr
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How-To: Walbro fuel pump install or stock pump replacement

Post by quicksilvr » Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:15 am

I posted this awhile back over on neonspeed.com, and figured I would copy it over here.


This is replacing a standard fuel pump in a 2000 Dodge Neon with a Walbro high-flow pump, and replacing the the Fuel Pressure Regulator with a new stock unit.


Here are all the new parts used for the upgrade. Everything in the bag came with the pump from ModernPerformance.

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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


2. Jack the car up as high as you safely can.
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3. Disconnect the fuel line and wiring harness from the tank. There's just a little pressure in the fuel line, not much. Have rags handy.
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4.Disconnect the lines from the EVAP canister, and remove the canister. The bottom picture was taken with the right rear wheel off. (I was putting my summer wheels back on) You can still reach those two high bolts that hold the canister without taking the wheel off, but I had to take the wheel of anyway, so that made it real easy.
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5. Remove the filler hose from the tank.
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6. Unbolt the straps that hold the tank up, while supporting it with your knees or blocks, and then lower the tank out slowly. The tank was only 1/8 full and was very manageable. Lowering the tank out on your knees works great.
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7. Remove the FPR from the tank assembly top and note the green plastic keeper. Remove it from the old FPR and put it on the new FPR.
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8.Remove the in-tank assembly. A large pair of slip joint pliers would probably work better than the method shown below, but our largest pair wasn't quite big enough. This way worked fine though. Cover the opening in the tank to keep the critters out while you work.
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9. Here is the complete in-tank assembly right after removal. Be careful not to damage the float arm or level sender device. They're pretty fragile.
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9. Now, you have to remove the wires from the harness plug so that you can pull them through the canister top. A very small flat screwdriver works well for this. Also be sure to note which wires go where. Marking one of the green wires with tape is a good idea, because there are two of them. (Green wires are for the level sender, the red and black are for the pump) Also, you can see where the clip that holds the harness plug in broke off. It wasn't a big deal because friction still holds the plug just fine, but if you're real gentle you can probably save the clip and not break it off.
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10. Take the sediment filter off, and then take the canister top off of the canister. This is kind of hard to do. Use the wedge that comes with the new fuel pump, as well as some small screwdrivers.
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11. Remove the wire grommet from the canister top
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12. Remove the old fuel pump.





13. Replace with new pump.
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14. The Walbro comes with a blue replacement seal that goes in the end of the canister away from the top. It is NOT the darkened blue seal that you see in the pics in step 13, but rather at the other end, where the end of the pump with the visible filter material seats. I don't have a picture of it. Once you replace that seal, you're ready to put the canister back together with the new pump in it. Be sure that the far end of the pump (with the visible filter) seats into that new seal when you are putting the canister back together, as it takes a little aiming to get it right.






15. Put the canister back together, reinstall the rubber wire grommet into the top of the canister, reconnect the wires to the plug, and put the new sediment filter on.
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16. The in-tank assembly is now ready to go back into the tank. Install the new tank seal that comes with the Walbro. It goes on easier if you stick it into the hole in the tank, and then slide the assembly into it.
This:
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vs.
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17. Install the new FPR (with the old, green, plastic keeper from the original FPR) into the tank assembly. It simply twist locks into place if I remember correctly. Then reinstall the screw ring that holds the assembly in the tank.
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18. Reinstall the tank, reinstall the fuel filler hose, the EVAP canister, the EVAP canister lines, the fuel line and the wiring harness. Lower the car down, reconnect the battery and start it up. It will crank over a couple times before catching. Mine started surprising quick though.







19. I don't think I forgot anything. It's been more than 2 months and a thousand miles since we installed it, and no problems. Overall, it's a straightforward job, and no expensive tools are needed.
-Dave
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dblsg
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Post by dblsg » Wed Jun 15, 2005 1:49 am

what kinda difference does this make in h/p?
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Post by WiTeOuT » Wed Jun 15, 2005 2:38 am

Amazing How to. Very freggin sweet. Great job man!!

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Post by eVilcreations » Wed Jun 15, 2005 9:23 am

Very well done How-To man.......I will definately have to keep that one in mind for when the boost comes......
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Post by quicksilvr » Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:28 pm

dblsg wrote:what kinda difference does this make in h/p?
None. My original fuel pump started to whine real loud, way louder than the normal sound that you can almost always hear. I figured it was better to go ahead and replace it than have it go out completely.

When I do add boost to the car, it will be one less thing to do. But right now, the engine doesn't need any more fuel than before.....so the pump doesn't make a lick of difference.
-Dave
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Post by RopeRat1 » Thu Jun 16, 2005 5:38 pm

Good post. The pics make it a lot easier for members that don't have a lot of experience.

I only see one problem. The jackstands under the lower control arms presents a safety issue of the stamped sheetmetal control arms bending and causing the car to fall. Jackstands should always be placed under the frame rails in front of the rear wheels or behind the front wheels if the front of the car is raised.


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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:47 pm

hey diablo.....I think this should be a good STICKY!!
I learned alot from this, let alone the pics helped too.....
STICKY!!

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Post by weber » Thu Jun 16, 2005 11:04 pm

and remember people....more modification will be needed if your adding boost.


So on to that now. Im hearing some people don't like the famous 'spoolboy' mod. What other options are there? How does Hahn and CF do it with their kits?

im curious
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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Fri Jun 17, 2005 6:55 am

spoolboy mod?

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Post by weber » Fri Jun 17, 2005 8:11 am

brr wrote:spoolboy mod?
You gotta be kidding me. You've never heard of the 'spoolboy' fuel pump modification for return line? That has been well known for many many years now.

Go search on neons.org. you'll find it all over
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Post by DjTransifi » Fri Jun 17, 2005 9:38 am

Not really sure on that question, one of you boost guys should jump in.. Just wanted to say nice, nice write up... After reading this and seeing the pictures I feel that I can do it.. Thanks..
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Jun 18, 2005 10:44 am

the org...lol....
yeah try to find anything there is a joke.....post a link....

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Post by eVilcreations » Sat Jun 18, 2005 11:49 am

Spoolboy Mod
http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/plfuelmods.html

Modification of Spoolboy Mod
http://neons.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=188969

Hope that helps ya out guys
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Post by quicksilvr » Sun Jun 26, 2005 2:35 am

weber wrote:and remember people....more modification will be needed if your adding boost.


So on to that now. Im hearing some people don't like the famous 'spoolboy' mod. What other options are there? How does Hahn and CF do it with their kits?

im curious

Hey, thanks for bringing this up. I was very unaware of all the information I just spent the last hour reading over concerning the spoolboy mod, and other stuff. I'm not planning on putting a turbo on for quite a while, and I have a lot of research to do still. The write up at http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/plfuelmods.html was great, and I'm glad lots of other people have had the chance to use it and test it out....makes it easier for all us late-comer's to the turbo game to decide what we want to do, and then do it right. Or at least try. 8)
-Dave
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sun Jun 26, 2005 6:41 am

Spoolboy mod with the fuel pump install above....this is probably the best informative topic I have seen in this forum in a while, heck I actually sat down to read both articles and I am not even modding my car to that point yet.
I GIVE THIS TOPIC A THUMBS UP!! :D :D :D :D

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Post by DjTransifi » Mon Jun 27, 2005 10:56 am

I agree.. This topic should be a sticky.. What do you say Diablo?
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Post by 05srt4clone » Mon Jun 27, 2005 3:06 pm

Very good information. Sticky!
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Post by Diablo0 » Mon Jun 27, 2005 7:17 pm

Yes this is a VERY well written how-to but why should it be a sticky.... it's the same as any how-to just written much much better.

???
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Post by quicksilvr » Mon Jun 27, 2005 10:45 pm

Just checkin back in on this. I personally don't care if it's made a sticky, I generally don't like boards where each section has tons of sticky's at the top, but to each their own. I just want the information to be easily accessible to people....so i dunno. A post archive would come in handy. Has that been considered over here? The only prob with one of those is that I guess peeps could get upset if they think something should be "archived" and it's not. :?
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Post by Diablo0 » Mon Jun 27, 2005 10:48 pm

Yes in the future something like that will happen to better organize informational threads.
-Jason
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Post by quicksilvr » Mon Jun 27, 2005 11:01 pm

Cool. And thanks everbody for the props. And thanks to weber for bringing up spoolboy info. :thumbup:
-Dave
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Jul 02, 2005 11:41 am

Diablo,
This is a good sticky...
Considering the fact that it is a perfect step by step how too, and it even includes the so called spoolboy mod as an aditionall reference.
As you stated earlier, you could always take the stickies and create a new section of the forum as a how to or an FYI section where no one can post replies. Use it as like a service manual of sometype.
There are very few informative chapters in this forum that you can consider a sticky or a permanent part of this forum, this one is one of them. This topic shows you everything and instructs all procedures needed to complete this modifacation, and it is very usefull.
I have never thought about going this far with my own car, but I have it stored in my own computer as a reference so if I do go that far I will know how to do it.......
I want to say make this topic a STICKY...BUT dont let anyone post any more posts to this topic, use it as a how too or an FYI and lock it.....it has enough info as it is......

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Post by Diablo0 » Sat Jul 02, 2005 10:20 pm

Just so you know... whenever someone gets on it *cough* you know who you are *cough* we will try to develop a section off the main site to display how-to.

What I consider a sticky would be some sort of How-To... to make an Excellent How-To on doing a modification.

Though to reinerate, we are trying to work on making a page off the main site just for how-to articles and as mentioned above in the future I will go through the how-to section and pull out all the instruction posts to make a dedicated section for them for easy refrence.
-Jason
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sun Jul 03, 2005 7:38 am

Sweet, no more searching for how to's.......

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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sun Jun 17, 2007 3:48 pm

Wow, 2 years later and this How To: is still here. Im going to finally sticky this since there are numerous people out there going with forced induction setups that may need to upgrade there fuel pumps and here is a good How To: to do it....
Heck, after 2 years of this topic here, there are probably a few members that actually may need to replace there stock pumps due to age :lol:

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Post by lvlistchif » Sat Jun 23, 2007 8:56 pm

how nesscary is a new fpr?
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Post by TurboVanDan » Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:30 pm

RopeRat1 expressed concern about the position of the jack stands under the rear of the car shown in step 2 of this "how to". I put the jack stands there myself, but I do agree with his concern to a degree. Meaning that I always keep the stands out to the ends of the control arms, and always let the car down very gently onto the jack stands. It would be fairly easy to damage these parts if you jacked the car up, slids the stands under, and then slammed the car down on them from some distance. That could bend the suspension. I believe that using jack stands under these suspension members is safe and effective when done GENTLY. And, it is often very handy to have the car in the air with the suspension still compressed... I will also mention that, since I always have some 2x4 blocks around, I use a 2x4 that catches BOTH lower control arms, and put the jack stand under the 2x4. Very smooth...

Be assured that I appreciate RopeRat1's concern, and would agree that the lower control arms should not be the "official" jack stand position under the south end of a Dodge Neon.
-Dan
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:50 am

^^^
I agree also, I typically have the stands under the pinch welds on the rocker panels myself and in the front of the car I use the frame rails.....
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Post by synviper » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:06 am

Bump:

Quick question when you removed the wires from the clip/plug you took out four wires and it looks like with the new pump in there are only 2 wires, red and black.

Also i bought my pump from another member on the site so i dont have the "blue grommet" that was mentioned when reinstalling the canister together, is there a way i can get around not using it.
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Post by heydockyle » Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:12 pm

synviper wrote:Bump:

Quick question when you removed the wires from the clip/plug you took out four wires and it looks like with the new pump in there are only 2 wires, red and black.
2 wires are for the pump. The other 2 are for the sender.
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