How-To: Magnum intake install version 2

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dawm
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Post by dawm » Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:06 pm

for AF/X'd magnum 2g people:

looking in the 04 FSM i noticed theres supposed to be a RELAY in the PDC, i wonder if you could jsut wire your setup to that instead of hacking up wires at the manifold side, just solder/replace the connection in the PDC. that would make a nice clean install yes? =P

cavity 54 = ground
cavity 55 = fused + (15a fuse #16 in the PDC)
cavity 56 = mtv relay output (powers the mtv)
cavity 57 = not used
*cavity 58 = mtv control (activates the mtv)

so all you would have to hook up to is #58 to open the butterflies, now how hard is that?

**edit** i just ran outside into the cold and yes everything looks to be there =p
as far as i know/can tell (dont have my vafc yet) this will only allow you to open them at a set RPM (4900rpm) which is only half of what kernel panic's howto does (his opens at idle-3200, and 5000+, basically your window switch is closing the mtv, not opening) but this is exacty what canuck_2k did on his neon, only having the mtv open at 4900
Last edited by dawm on Tue Feb 21, 2006 1:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by DJ CptnCrnch » Sat Feb 18, 2006 3:09 pm

Quick question for u. If i buy one and just install it and dont wire it up...it will just function like the one i have now right...

**edie**
I only ask bc if we have a problem wireing it up, i dont want to be our of my car for a few days...
-Matt-
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AEM intake, MPx underdrive pulley, MPx throttle body, Prothane Motor Mounts , Mopar short throw shifter Eibach lowing springs, Mag Intake Manifold, Mopar 3D Taillights, Mag head, Comp 400 cam, FF LTH. All this work and I'm still slow...time to find another car
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Post by dawm » Thu Feb 23, 2006 6:38 pm

might be kinda ricey, but how much work would it take to make a LED light up when the MTV is open? sorta a Magnum VTEC light =p

i dont know anything about wiring, other then reading instructions =p
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Post by DJ CptnCrnch » Thu Feb 23, 2006 10:31 pm

ok...i dont see any problems with it...ill just have to make some time to install it then, and wire it up. What should i do for an intake now. ill have to get some new tubes right??
-Matt-
04 Black SXT
AEM intake, MPx underdrive pulley, MPx throttle body, Prothane Motor Mounts , Mopar short throw shifter Eibach lowing springs, Mag Intake Manifold, Mopar 3D Taillights, Mag head, Comp 400 cam, FF LTH. All this work and I'm still slow...time to find another car
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Post by dawm » Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:03 am

nevermind my last question about the LED, i just bought some 12V LEDs (prewired w/ resistor) so im good to go. :)
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Post by dawm » Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:17 pm

anyone thtas done this got any pictures? ive got all my doodads in the cabin already (zex tps/wot switch,msd) just curious where everyone has theres setup.

im gonna be using the stock line from the PDC to turn on the MTV (just changing the 2nd relay a bit to output +)
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Post by Kernel Panic » Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:09 am

Image

Image
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Post by dawm » Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:08 pm

what a mess =P thanks. ive got all my goodies stored under the driverside dash, even got the msd window switch to sit still up inside, allowing me to pull it down if i needed to change it. i just have to extend some wires.
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Post by quicksilvr » Thu Mar 23, 2006 1:08 pm

Image

Sorry it's not the whole engine bay, but the wires are pretty well out of sight, and there is black wire loom around the two big bundles.
-Dave
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Post by dawm » Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:06 pm

quicksilvr wrote:Image

Sorry it's not the whole engine bay, but the wires are pretty well out of sight, and there is black wire loom around the two big bundles.
must be nice to have gotten screws... i didnt get any screws with my msd rpm switch... fuckers!!
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Post by quicksilvr » Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:55 pm

Nope, the switch doesn't come with screws. I didn't use the riveted holes in the MSD switch, but instead drilled two new holes on each side, with a black zip tie going through them and through the battery blanket. And the ZEX switch is screwed to the frame with some stainless screws, that go into holes that I drilled and tapped.
-Dave
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Post by dawm » Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:22 pm

quicksilvr wrote:Nope, the switch doesn't come with screws. I didn't use the riveted holes in the MSD switch, but instead drilled two new holes on each side, with a black zip tie going through them and through the battery blanket. And the ZEX switch is screwed to the frame with some stainless screws, that go into holes that I drilled and tapped.
the instruction sheet lists the included parts, which lists mounting screws hehe =P doesnt matter to me tho, mines all under the steering panel in side the dash.
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Post by quicksilvr » Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:28 pm

dawm wrote:
quicksilvr wrote:Nope, the switch doesn't come with screws. I didn't use the riveted holes in the MSD switch, but instead drilled two new holes on each side, with a black zip tie going through them and through the battery blanket. And the ZEX switch is screwed to the frame with some stainless screws, that go into holes that I drilled and tapped.
the instruction sheet lists the included parts, which lists mounting screws hehe =P doesnt matter to me tho, mines all under the steering panel in side the dash.
:lol: That's funny, now that you mention it, I also remember that the sheet does list them. But mine didn't come with any screws....and I know Aaron (LCPLPunk) didn't rob them. MSD is shorting all their customers like 30 cents worth of parts!!! :lol:
-Dave
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Post by Kernel Panic » Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:10 am

dawm wrote:what a mess =P
Pfffft.. You want to see a mess I'll get a pic of a local's 1GN with his turbo and Megasquirt setup. Now that's a rat's nest!
The weasels are closing in, I can smell the ugly brutes..
When the going gets wierd, the wierd turn pro.. - Dr. Hunter S. Thompson (1937-2005)

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Post by dawm » Fri Mar 24, 2006 2:46 pm

i just thought.. ya know all i need is the safc2 wiring, tps wire for the zex, rpm wire for the msd, power wire from the asd relay and a signal wire to activate the MTV.. so thats what? 4 wires + safc bundle.. instead of 10 + safc bundle.. yeah im stupid =P soo.. my install will be housed under the dash, cept for the wires needing to go to the sensors/engine :) man i wish i thought of this before i pulled that massive pile of wires thru the firewall.. damnit!

ive got everything figured out now, except how to splice and run multiple feeds safely from the ASD Relay(4), RPM Signal(2) and TPS(2)

i guess cut, add multiple wires and solder/heatshrink? so it looks like a tree branch?

ASD Relay ___/_/_/_/____
(relay 1, msd switch, zex switch, safc2)

RPM Signal ____/_/_____
(msd switch, safc2)

TPS Wire ____/_/_____
(zex switch, safc2)
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Post by DJ CptnCrnch » Tue Mar 28, 2006 3:30 pm

anyone know where i can get the ZEX TPS/WOT switch???? Looking to do my install this weekend or next
-Matt-
04 Black SXT
AEM intake, MPx underdrive pulley, MPx throttle body, Prothane Motor Mounts , Mopar short throw shifter Eibach lowing springs, Mag Intake Manifold, Mopar 3D Taillights, Mag head, Comp 400 cam, FF LTH. All this work and I'm still slow...time to find another car
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Post by dawm » Tue Mar 28, 2006 3:40 pm

summitracing.com part# 82108
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Post by DJ CptnCrnch » Wed Mar 29, 2006 2:38 pm

awesome....Ill have to call the store, i think ill just drive there and pick it up...its only 30 mins from my parents house
-Matt-
04 Black SXT
AEM intake, MPx underdrive pulley, MPx throttle body, Prothane Motor Mounts , Mopar short throw shifter Eibach lowing springs, Mag Intake Manifold, Mopar 3D Taillights, Mag head, Comp 400 cam, FF LTH. All this work and I'm still slow...time to find another car
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Post by nodestiny » Wed Mar 29, 2006 4:13 pm

DJ CptnCrnch wrote:anyone know where i can get the ZEX TPS/WOT switch???? Looking to do my install this weekend or next
Or make your own for >$5 :D Either way...
NoDestiny: 2004 SXT Silver MTx: CAI, Mag Intake, Mag header, Custom made mufflers, Grounding kit, Mopar STS, boogers, Eibach springs, Rear SRT4 struts, 29mm + 24mm hotchkis sways, MPx UPD, Street Prothane MM, P-werks rear strut tower bar, Lots of fun goodies inside, see WWW

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Post by quicksilvr » Wed Mar 29, 2006 4:50 pm

nodestiny wrote:
DJ CptnCrnch wrote:anyone know where i can get the ZEX TPS/WOT switch???? Looking to do my install this weekend or next
Or make your own for >$5 :D Either way...
I could make something really nice for more than $5... most people could. :lol:



Now, for less than $5, it would't look anything like the ZEX unit, but it would be a WOT switch. :D
-Dave
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Post by DJ CptnCrnch » Wed Mar 29, 2006 10:09 pm

ehh ill just buy the piece....i dont feel like messing my car up
-Matt-
04 Black SXT
AEM intake, MPx underdrive pulley, MPx throttle body, Prothane Motor Mounts , Mopar short throw shifter Eibach lowing springs, Mag Intake Manifold, Mopar 3D Taillights, Mag head, Comp 400 cam, FF LTH. All this work and I'm still slow...time to find another car
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Post by quicksilvr » Wed Mar 29, 2006 11:59 pm

You don't have to make your own, and you can still spend less than you would on the electronic ZEX one. Mechanical WOT switches are cheap and reliable, but I'm not trying to steer you away from the ZEX switch...it's great. Just letting you know your options, if you already didn't.
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Post by 03atx » Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:40 am

hello everyone

I'm hoping you can help a total neon n00b with this. I have an atx daily driven 2003 neon. I was lucky enough to get a cheap magnum intake manifold with working actuators. it's even ported a little bit. I read this thread and the other made by grindpunk16. I'm still soooo lost with all of this. maybe some of you can clear some things up for me.

I have a 2003 atx neon. will this still work for me? The thread at neons.org and here show users using different setups. what do i really need to do this? are there any changes i need to make on my atx to fit the magnum manifold?

I keep hearing people talk about mechanical WOT switches. what would be the advantage or disadvantage? why would you even need a wot switch if the magnums actuator is going to be controlled by the rpm switch? doesnt the rpm switch read rpms and feed power to the actuator at a certain rpm? wouldnt you already be near wot?

Finally i keep hearing that the setup described opens the runners two times. once at a lower rpm and then again just a bit higher. how are these rpm switches handling the timing on each time. are they able to handle two rpm settings?

is this the zex switch everyone is talking about and do i absolutely need it?
Zex programmable TPS Switch

is this the harlan switch? Harlan RPM Switch

is this the alternative msd switch to use?
MSD RPM activated Switch

has anyone used the summit rpm switch? does it need a tach adaptor?
Summit RPM activated Switch


i hope someone can give me a hand. Any and all information would be appreciated.

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Post by UMKCNeon04 » Tue Apr 04, 2006 11:39 am

ok everyone need some info here. this is what ill have soon: mag manifold with actuator and digital msd window switch(forget number but its the one from the engine bay pic above). i know i wont need a tach adaptor for it because it has 2cylinder mode. i am gonna go the cheap way out and not go for a wot switch unless someone can give me a good howto for a mech one. now here comes my questions.

1. since i do not have a wot switch will i need two relays still or just one?

2. if i only use one relay how exactly should i wire it up? this is what im thinking:trigger wire from msd to one of the terminals on the relay. other terminal goes to constant 12v.NO terminal to the ground. now here is my question. do i connect a 12v switched to the common terminal or do i connect the mtv ground to the common terminal. please inlighten me.

3.i read the post from the other org about what rpms to use but im still confused. what have most of u done? should i do the 0-5000 method or 3200-5000. i need as much low end as possible if that helps.lol.
thanks for any help.

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Post by UMKCNeon04 » Tue Apr 04, 2006 11:58 am

ok if anyone still has an answer to my post above please answer but i just realized how cheap mech wot switches are so i am going to be using one now so i will still use the dual relay method. and general concensus is that keeping secondaries closed from 32 to 5 is best right? see how much i can find out from reading forums during my enviro class. :lol:

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Post by quicksilvr » Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:58 pm

Ok, if you are for sure using a WOT switch and the dual relay method, than kernal panics diagram is great, be sure to use the GRAY wire (normally closed) on the MSD switch if you want to be able to set TWO points for the butterflies to open. I have mine set to be open 0-3200 and 4900-redline at WOT. But, in my experience, them being open from 0-3200 is kind of dumb and useless....because if I'm going to floor it, I make sure I'm in a gear that gets the rpm's up so I actually have power....ie, I don't think I've ever gone to WOT and still been below 3200 rpm. I did do it a couple times just to check that the set point was working, but it's not anything I would do if I was driving normally, and when you mash it at like 2000 rpm you can hear a difference as the butterflies open...but you can't feel anything. You're not going anywhere fast at only 2000 rpm. And as far as the upper point is concerned I have mine set at 4900, cause it seems good to me. When I dyno the car, I'm going to do several runs with several different set points, and see what the actual power difference is, hopefully coming up with the perfect point of opening. 8)

Oh, and if for some reason you do just want to only use your MSD switch without the WOT switch, I modified kernal panics diagram for that application for Sparky828, and I still have the diagram.
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Post by 03atx » Tue Apr 04, 2006 2:10 pm

quicksilvr wrote:Ok, if you are for sure using a WOT switch and the dual relay method, than kernal panics diagram is great, be sure to use the GRAY wire (normally closed) on the MSD switch if you want to be able to set TWO points for the butterflies to open. I have mine set to be open 0-3200 and 4900-redline at WOT. But, in my experience, them being open from 0-3200 is kind of dumb and useless....because if I'm going to floor it, I make sure I'm in a gear that gets the rpm's up so I actually have power....ie, I don't think I've ever gone to WOT and still been below 3200 rpm. I did do it a couple times just to check that the set point was working, but it's not anything I would do if I was driving normally, and when you mash it at like 2000 rpm you can hear a difference as the butterflies open...but you can't feel anything. You're not going anywhere fast at only 2000 rpm. And as far as the upper point is concerned I have mine set at 4900, cause it seems good to me. When I dyno the car, I'm going to do several runs with several different set points, and see what the actual power difference is, hopefully coming up with the perfect point of opening. 8)

Oh, and if for some reason you do just want to only use your MSD switch without the WOT switch, I modified kernal panics diagram for that application for Sparky828, and I still have the diagram.
does your msd switch allow for two point ranges and if so whats the part number on it? Does it need a tach adaptor too? I've had some talks with a friend and he feels i may not need a WOT switch (it does seem pointless on an atx). Can you put up that diagram?

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Post by dawm » Tue Apr 04, 2006 5:40 pm

the MSD window switch, allows you to set a WINDOW start->stop ie 3200rpm->5000rpm with the wiring like kernel panics howto, basically your setting the window switch to turn off the manifold during the RPM window, rather then telling it to open, since you can only have 2 set points (start and stop)
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Post by quicksilvr » Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:06 pm

Image

MSD Digital Window Switch 8969
-Dave
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Post by 03atx » Wed Apr 05, 2006 2:13 pm

dawm wrote:the MSD window switch, allows you to set a WINDOW start->stop ie 3200rpm->5000rpm with the wiring like kernel panics howto, basically your setting the window switch to turn off the manifold during the RPM window, rather then telling it to open, since you can only have 2 set points (start and stop)
sorry I'm confused again. I thought the MTV had to open at high rpms.

Quicksilver. why do you need at least one relay? or is this for safetys sake?

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